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Old 06-27-2011, 11:53 AM
  #31  
Norm Peterson
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Originally Posted by ZPounds07GT
from the other sport cars I have ridden in the Mustang seems to have a bit more roll or at least a faster roll than the others.
What other sports cars, and did they have any suspension mods?


So I would like to make the roll a little slower. And overall a stiffer ride. If I'm understanding you correctly?
It's two sides of the same coin. When you make the car stiffer against roll, the ride gets stiffer.

BTW, there's a difference between "stiffer" meaning "firmer" and "stiffer" just being harsher. A lot of the difference is in the shock/strut choice.


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Old 06-27-2011, 12:02 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by ZPounds07GT
Alrighty. Thanks. Do you know if there is any way that I can remove that sensor and not have that light turn on?
Not legally, as far as actually disabling the light is concerned. What you might do to avoid it coming on with TPMS-less wheels/tires or let it come on without bothering you is a separate matter.


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Old 06-27-2011, 12:09 PM
  #33  
ZPounds07GT
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Mazda RX8, 370Z, Honda Prelude, mostly tuner cars. The Prelude had been lowered and sat on lower profile tires and all that stuff. Firm would be the word I'm looking for.
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Old 06-27-2011, 07:12 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by ZPounds07GT
Alright thanks yeah I'm really interested in the AX now that it has been brought to mind. Lol. I'm gonna look up a place near me now.

Thanks for all your help. I think out of all the people that I have seen post on here, you seem to be the funniest and one of the most friendly and I love your car btw. I wanted a white one.. LUCKY! :P
TY & YW

I think you will enjoy AX, if you are into the "feel" of a sudden change in latteral direction. I dig 'em hard and love the sensation of defying physics by turning the wheel and my car efforlessly changes direction

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Old 06-27-2011, 08:11 PM
  #35  
ZPounds07GT
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Yeah I will try it out as soon as I can. Does it cost to get onto the track? Oh!.. Um I forgot to ask this, if I lower it 1.5 inches will I need to worry about caster camber plates?
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Old 06-27-2011, 08:23 PM
  #36  
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My AX club charges about $35 a year and $35 per race-day. It is a work/run event, but may not be in your case.

1.5" is about the cut-off point for the need to install CC plates. Increased negative camber is the result of dropping, as you probably already know, but will be helpful on corners and AX. You will get some additional inner-tire wear, as you will probably be in the neighborhood of 1.25° with such a drop. Hopefully Norm will chime in with a more exact number, as he is that kinda guy

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Old 06-27-2011, 10:22 PM
  #37  
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Gotcha. How exactly does it help with the cornners and AX though?
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Old 06-28-2011, 05:26 AM
  #38  
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Negative camber helps keep more of the tire on the surface of the road as body roll would otherwise put the tire up on its outter edge (simple explanation) Adding caster tilts the strut back to help in the same way while the wheels are turned (again, simple explanation). I think I have some additional details in my suspension guide, but I forget... lol

Do some research on the net and will likely find some .gif images and a better description as mine pretty much sucks

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Old 06-28-2011, 07:45 AM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by Jazzer The Cat
1.5" is about the cut-off point for the need to install CC plates. Increased negative camber is the result of dropping, as you probably already know, but will be helpful on corners and AX. You will get some additional inner-tire wear, as you will probably be in the neighborhood of 1.25° with such a drop. Hopefully Norm will chime in with a more exact number, as he is that kinda guy
No exact numbers here, as there are too many other variables. For a street-driven or mostly street-driven car, I'd say that an individual's "ideal camber setting" is that which gives even (or at least close to even) wear without forcing that individual change his driving to be either harder or milder. If a suspension change encourages a driver to drive a bit harder and he then does so more or less naturally, that's a different story.

If you actually do end up at -1.2° and you are a moderately enthusiastic about your cornering much/most of the time, you may not need to correct your cambers.

But once you are at the point where camber correction might become necessary you can set them to what suits your own driving. And that's going to vary some depending on the individual driver as well as on the rest of the car's suspension setup.

A milder driver would probably be better off at something between -0.75° (which is the OE preferred number) and maybe -1°. A really mild driver who only cruises the car or takes in car shows might even want to set slightly less.

A driver who drives the corners consistently a lot harder than most might be able to use more than -1.2°, but do that because the tires are telling you to with outside shoulder wear (not because you'd like to think you drive that hard).

For any given driver and average driving, a stiffer suspension won't need camber to be quite as negative as a softer suspension would.


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Last edited by Norm Peterson; 06-28-2011 at 07:49 AM.
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Old 06-28-2011, 08:00 AM
  #40  
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I could imagine that when I lower it that I may take corners harder as I will want to play more. But right now I'm a fairly mild driver except when those slow pokes get in the way. Then I get annoyed and become more aggressive or if I'm just looking to mess around. So I guess I can just get an adjustable plate and hopefully be able to find my sweet spot. Wherever that may be.
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