DIY tail light sequencer for less than $10
01-23-2016, 09:17 PM
#21
I've tried putting a lead into the existing 2 terminal socket but no such luck too. Even a very long paper clip that I hope will extend and touch the terminal inside but it won't work (no connectivity). I'm planning on just using the 3 terminal socket, they are exactly the same size. Got to visit a junk yard to see if I could get some.
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01-24-2016, 09:32 AM
#23
the connection wiring will look exactly like this.. https://www.autotrix.net/install/96-...Taillights.asp
but the lead that they put on the stop light (inner most) doesn't work for me, maybe I just need to find a flat lead.
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but the lead that they put on the stop light (inner most) doesn't work for me, maybe I just need to find a flat lead.
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https://www.facebook.com/diyfordmustang
01-24-2016, 10:44 AM
#25
Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: WV
Posts: 49
I was doing the same as you, a paper clip. figured I would hit the metal that worked the stop/turn element then solder a lead on it and epoxy it in the socket. I have tried and still do not ever make contact. If I make it to work tomorrow I am going to look for some flat term ends and see what I can find now that I have the lighting harness out. Benefits of working at a auto parts store. If I score anything I'll be sure to post it and a part number. Be much easier to add the wire then solder in a new socket and it would still look stock.
01-31-2016, 06:20 PM
#26
finally got blessed with weather in the 60s this weekend. wrapped up the light sequencer on my mustang...
I replaced the 2 terminals with 3 terminals and they just fit just like the original. I wasn't able to figure out how to make the 2 terminal work by inserting a terminal or a wire. Instead of doing the wire splicing at the light assembly I spliced it near the connector inside so that the whole assembly is tucked inside the trunk out of the weather elements.
I run into an issue with the right tail light, somehow the voltage on this side is lower and is causing the middle light to not work properly (especially with the flashers on with engine off). I checked my wiring, bulbs and everything is just right. I disconnected the 6 ohm load resistor and it worked fine. The left tail light assembly has no issues with the load resistor and I just left it as is.
It's probably OK to leave the load resistor out.
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I replaced the 2 terminals with 3 terminals and they just fit just like the original. I wasn't able to figure out how to make the 2 terminal work by inserting a terminal or a wire. Instead of doing the wire splicing at the light assembly I spliced it near the connector inside so that the whole assembly is tucked inside the trunk out of the weather elements.
I run into an issue with the right tail light, somehow the voltage on this side is lower and is causing the middle light to not work properly (especially with the flashers on with engine off). I checked my wiring, bulbs and everything is just right. I disconnected the 6 ohm load resistor and it worked fine. The left tail light assembly has no issues with the load resistor and I just left it as is.
It's probably OK to leave the load resistor out.
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Last edited by lincolnshibuya; 01-31-2016 at 06:27 PM.
01-31-2016, 10:15 PM
#28
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02-03-2016, 09:41 AM
#29
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Serbia
Posts: 4
Do you still need to 3 or 6 ohm load ? I was wondering if you would need both, the load at the light would only change the rear lighting flash rate while the resistor in the flasher will change both the front and rear flash rate. Looks great !
02-03-2016, 10:43 AM
#30
I think it depends on the voltage/current load on the circuit, you might not need them. Without the load resistor the flasher will flash rapidly. In my case the right side seems to have issues with the load resistor so I disconnected it. The right side is just working fine with the load resistor, I believe if I disconnect it should be ok. I made the circuit in such a way that the 6 ohm load resistor can be disconnected easily. Bench testing it with the same flasher worked flawlessly but when it's time to actually put it in the car then this issue happens.. there must be some disparity between the load on either side of the circuit.
the major difference of this DIY circuit compared to the $60 on amazon/ebay and $120 in american muscle is that the commercial ones have automatic flash rate sensing. no screws for adjustments are made when changing flashers (from fast to slow)
the wiring and the operational concept is very similar though.
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the major difference of this DIY circuit compared to the $60 on amazon/ebay and $120 in american muscle is that the commercial ones have automatic flash rate sensing. no screws for adjustments are made when changing flashers (from fast to slow)
the wiring and the operational concept is very similar though.
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https://www.facebook.com/diyfordmustang