***Group Buy: Spydershaft Aluminum D/S***
#101
RE: ***Group Buy: Spydershaft Aluminum D/S***
ORIGINAL: 06Saleen3V
J, the ft/lbs of torque is the torque for the bolts on the U-joints (correlating to their strength) not how much ft/lbs of torque the actual driveshaft can handle
ORIGINAL: mygt500
So help me understand as a noob (which I am) 120-130 ft/lb tq for the 1330 series U joint but then would that make it the weakest point on the DS? I would be interested in the 1350 series but am confused as to the physics of the whole thing.....
So help me understand as a noob (which I am) 120-130 ft/lb tq for the 1330 series U joint but then would that make it the weakest point on the DS? I would be interested in the 1350 series but am confused as to the physics of the whole thing.....
The rating is actually the "continuous torque rating" for the u-joint,and on a1330 series u-joint that would be 130 lbs/ft and for a 1350 series it would be 210 lbs/ft.
Now what that means is that Danau-joints on a "gas or diesel engine" are rated for steady state torque at the above mentioned ratings which in return assures a long life cycle of the u-joint.
Those u-joints are also rated for "short duration torque" of 890 lbs/ft for the 1330 series and 1240 lbs/ft for the 1350 series joint.
So to answer the question properly, the 1330 u-joints will be fine for most applications, but it wouldn't be a bad idea to upgrade to the 1350 joints, especially since the other side of the shaft (the one opposite the internal slip spline) should already have a 1350 series in it.
The 1330 will have a shorter life cycle than the 1350's if you consistently run above the "continuous torque rating" but most should be fine, just run a driveshaft loop and if you drive hard frequently, inspect your driveshaft to insure that the u-joints and fasteners that hold either end to the car are intact with no obvious imperfections.
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