Minor paint problem after wax
#1
Minor paint problem after wax
So a couple weeks ago, I used a Meguiars or Mothers Clay bar after a very good washing. Then, I used a Mothers cleaner wax. Then I used Meguiars Gold Class™ Carnauba Plus Premium Paste Wax...
After the last coat of the Gold Class wax, I noticed some minor scuff marks on a couple of places on the hood. It's really light, but I notice it. I think the pad that the Gold Class wax came with was too abrasive, and caused some minor scuffing on the paint or clear coat. The wax claimed to be clear coat safe...
The pad that the Maguiars Gold Class™ Carnauba Plus Premium Paste Wax came with was kind of a rough spongy material. Prior to this waxing, the only thing that has touched my car is microfiber pads and towels. I'm positive it was the Maguiars pad that did it. I can only assume I let the pad get too dry on the couple of places this occurred.
I am sooooo pissed! I know that worst case I could get it buffed out. I'd post some pictures, but its so faint, and can only be seen at certain angles, I don't think my camera would pick it up.
Any recommendations on a product that will safely remedy this?
After the last coat of the Gold Class wax, I noticed some minor scuff marks on a couple of places on the hood. It's really light, but I notice it. I think the pad that the Gold Class wax came with was too abrasive, and caused some minor scuffing on the paint or clear coat. The wax claimed to be clear coat safe...
The pad that the Maguiars Gold Class™ Carnauba Plus Premium Paste Wax came with was kind of a rough spongy material. Prior to this waxing, the only thing that has touched my car is microfiber pads and towels. I'm positive it was the Maguiars pad that did it. I can only assume I let the pad get too dry on the couple of places this occurred.
I am sooooo pissed! I know that worst case I could get it buffed out. I'd post some pictures, but its so faint, and can only be seen at certain angles, I don't think my camera would pick it up.
Any recommendations on a product that will safely remedy this?
Last edited by VRFlip; 11-11-2009 at 12:57 PM. Reason: removed extra spacing
#3
6th Gear Member
So you put the cleaner wax on first and then the Gold CLass? I've had issues with putting Gold CLass on top of an existing wax which seemed to make the surface look blotchy. I suggest you re-clay your hood and ONLY apply the Gold Class (to be honest, I didn't like how my Alloy looked with the Gold CLass and switched over to ICE).
Once you clay, there should be absolutely NO reason to use a cleaner wax.
Once you clay, there should be absolutely NO reason to use a cleaner wax.
#5
It looks really great except a few small patches that appear to be lightly scratched. I'll try to get some pictures tonight. I hesitate to call them scratches, more like scuffs. I'm %90 sure that the rough pad caused it.
Thanks for the replies guys.
Thanks for the replies guys.
#6
So you put the cleaner wax on first and then the Gold CLass? I've had issues with putting Gold CLass on top of an existing wax which seemed to make the surface look blotchy. I suggest you re-clay your hood and ONLY apply the Gold Class (to be honest, I didn't like how my Alloy looked with the Gold CLass and switched over to ICE).
Once you clay, there should be absolutely NO reason to use a cleaner wax.
Once you clay, there should be absolutely NO reason to use a cleaner wax.
The clay removes contaminants above the surface. The cleaner removes oxidation, and sometimes swirl marks. The clay and cleaner serve two different purposes.
#7
6th Gear Member
I don't disagree with you but I also don't think that putting the Gold Class on top of a cleaner wax (or any other dissimilar wax) provides good results. I don't know why he'd have oxidation, what with the young age of our S197's and the clearcoat. And swirl marks are better treated with other products besides a cleaner wax. The OP said nothing about swirl marks.
#8
Nuke, I think you and I are pretty much on the same page now.
I don't think the brand of clay needs to be the same as the other products you use. But when you get to cleaner, polish, glaze, wax, or sealant, I think it's generally better to use the same brand, no matter which one. That helps to avoid incompatibility of chemicals.
If you are not sure about what company's products to use with another of their products, ask them. For example, I asked Meguiar's whether it was okay to use their Mirror Glaze 135 Synthetic Spray Detailer as a lubricant with clay. They said it was not okay, because that detailer has too much lubricity to allow the clay to be effective. They recommended either of two of their other spray detailers.
So I use the 135 as a detailer, and Meguiar's Quik Detailer as a lubricant for clay. I prefer Griot's Garage clay to Meguiar's clay. The Meguiar's clay tended to stick to the surface, and was harder to remove than the Griot's Garage clay. I don't think the Meguiar's lubricant and the Griot's Garage clay should cause any compatibility problems. I haven't noticed any.
I don't think the brand of clay needs to be the same as the other products you use. But when you get to cleaner, polish, glaze, wax, or sealant, I think it's generally better to use the same brand, no matter which one. That helps to avoid incompatibility of chemicals.
If you are not sure about what company's products to use with another of their products, ask them. For example, I asked Meguiar's whether it was okay to use their Mirror Glaze 135 Synthetic Spray Detailer as a lubricant with clay. They said it was not okay, because that detailer has too much lubricity to allow the clay to be effective. They recommended either of two of their other spray detailers.
So I use the 135 as a detailer, and Meguiar's Quik Detailer as a lubricant for clay. I prefer Griot's Garage clay to Meguiar's clay. The Meguiar's clay tended to stick to the surface, and was harder to remove than the Griot's Garage clay. I don't think the Meguiar's lubricant and the Griot's Garage clay should cause any compatibility problems. I haven't noticed any.
#9
I don't think the applicator pad would be rough enough to put scratches in the clear. If anything I think it makes more sense that the clay could have left scratches behind. Either you didn't use enough lubricant with the clay or it had contaminants in the clay which caused the scratches. It's nothing to get really upset about, just buff it with some rubbing compound.
#10
Well, I tried to take pictures last night, but I couldn't get the scuffs to show up. I'm going to try again tomorrow during daylight with a better camera.
I cannot feel the scuffs with my fingernail.
I cannot feel the scuffs with my fingernail.