GGIII

See, I was thinking I may have some bad gas, etc, that tripped a knock sensor?

I dunno... I'm learning slowly about the new-fangled computer systems in cars. Haha. I'm a car nut and a computer nut, but cars + computers = o.O

Being 17 doesn't help.


Oh, yeah, I learned about cars on the 1979 Jeep CJ-7 we're doing a frame-off on. The only electronics on that thing is the Starter and the Radio. Haha.

VaporDude

Next time you should really take it back to the dealer to see what they find. I had a Check Engine Light on one of mine last week. It ended up being the EVAP system and no parts were needed at this time but Ford is working the solution. The car ran fine except for that light being on.

chevykiller

Just remember to do this first if it happens again. Newbreed is right - could have been 1 of many reasons but when you said you revved up the car when it happened I had a good idea why. When I'm doing burnouts, this happens to me sometimes. If I exceed 5000 rpm, my CEL and gear warning lights come on and usually all I have to do is restart the car and it goes away. Sometimes though, I have to clear and re-install the tune. What happens for me is I bump the rev limiter too quickly for the 'nany program' (I have explained many times what the 'nanny' program is) to engage and the when the limiter hits without that nanny retarding the timing for it, and it sends a shock to the system and the light(s) come on. Nothing gets hurt but it's just the cars way of saying 'what the heck did you just do?" Even though I'm power braking during this example, the same fundementals apply when you slam your car up in neutral or gear from an idle. This is probably what it was and no big deal.

GGIII

If I take it to the dealer I will first have to put my stock airbox back on and detune the car... The exhaust and springs I doubt they'll care about, but the local dealer is an SOB sometimes about mods.

GGIII

I appreciate the help, Chevy. I hope this is what it is.

While you're talking about the TQ Nanny, I've just set my revlmters for around 6800 (after reading your Torque Nanny post) and my shifts for 6200(ish).

Good settings for my auto?

chevykiller

Maybe so but to be sure take a look at your dyno chart to see where your peak HP is and set your rev limiter for about 500 rpm over that and try to make the shifts about 300 rpm before your peak HP curve. I'm certainly not against taking your car to the dealer when warranted but you can always reflash your tune to clear computer spike warning lights. If it is something legitimately serious, the warning light will stay on even after you re-flash the tune so why not just take that little step before wasting your time and $$$ going to the dealer all the time. If a warning light comes on and you actually notice something different in your car, sound, feel, drive, heat, etc... then by all means don't even bother with a reflash and go straight to the dealer.

I've heard you complain about throttle lag on several occasions - go and see the difference with your new settings...

EDIT - forgot you have an auto - do you have an aftermarket torque converter?

Daniel60

I have a SCT tuner and it has 3 tunes from brenspeed and could someone tell me how to change it to the stock tune. Just curious.

GGIII

Haha, Chev, hope you don't think I'm a whiner.

No, my TQ Converter is stock.

The bad lag is when trying to give it just a tad of throttle off idle. This is ranging from .5 secon to a full 2 second lag before the computer catches with the pedal. This is very, very aggravating (and noticeable) for me since I live down .5mile of dirt road and I idle down it every day.


As for the dyno curve, I'm waiting for Diablo to officially release their A/T revision before even bothering the car to be put on one. I figured that 6800 was 500 over stock and about 500 over my current shift point.

Hufenstang

i thought the tuners were supposed to get rid of that lag for autos?

Daniel60

The SCT tune with CAI helps the automatics with the lag more than the standards.