As some of you know I have a small little hole through my block.. I live in the bay area and was thinking of getting an MMR block. I wanted to see how much a engine builder around ehre would charge... If anyone knows any shop in the bay area or in tracy, stockton area please let me know.

--thanks

Heres some pics of the tear down.. wooo.. CK.. you should have been there

http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/tvalis.../ph//my_photos

 

Wow, bro. I gotta tell ya, I personally wouldn't be too comfortable working with roosters, a shotgun, and a tractor around my car...lol

Seriously, you're not THAT far away. I would get a tescid block (because of cost - only $400-$600) and have it shipped directly to doogans with a stroker kit and have adam build it. Doogans takes forever, but there one of the best around. I would then have adam build it and he could drop it in just two days once it's done. I would tow the car down when it was ready to go in and just get a hotel for the night. It would be a pain in the butt but well worth the trouble IMO. He's doing engines right now for people from texas and arizona who are doing just that. At least get a quote from him and you may be surprised that the cost may be no different than doing it local. He may even give you cost on parts if you can get him to feel sorry for ya...

 

If I was in So cal I would have Adam do it.. matter of fact he was one of the first people to pm me and offer to help me which was totally cool. I know both you and Don_w have been doing great with him.. but the tow alone for 8+ hours of tow will be way too much. Also, I have everything apart now in the mini airport hanger. I dont mean to sound like a puss but this whole issue had been stressing me out. With the wifey comming in 6 months or so and now my work OT has gone away (which will drop my paycheck to about half!!) I'm looking for the best deals I can. I dont need a teskid block because I dont want to make 1000+hp.. haha.. all I wanted is my 500-600wrhp. You see all the troubles you have to go through to get past that part.. It feel like anything over 450wrhp there needs to be major changes... I feel into the thinking that these cars can handle 500rwhp and I bet most can.. what I didnt think is the "other" things that could cause trouble.. , IE. My meth injection kit, dons high flow cats".. I dont have the funds to do everything I want so I got to take the low road.. what makes it worse is that I dont have someone around here that I can really go to for help to rebuild this thing around here.. there has to be someone in SAC or the bay area... thats why I'm posting.. I will check out this Doogans. thanks for the info...

P.S. > your car tools arre not complete without a rifle!! haha

 

That's honestly why I suggested the tescid - not because it's iron and strong but because it's cheap. Where else are you going to get a brand new useable block for less than $500?? That's the honest reason why Don went with it - that and AVAILABILITY. You can get a tescid block tomorrow but our aluminum blocks are 4-6 weeks back ordered and $1200 bucks to boot! They are in such demand that I had $800 waiting for my used block as soon as it came out. That was the only reason I was sticking to the aluminum and not going with the tescid myself - because it was really only costing me $400. Sure I wanted the aluminum cause it's a heck of a lot lighter, but the truth is if I had to spend the $1200 and wait over a month, I would have went with the tescid too. I ended up getting lucky and adam came across a used block and is just swapping mine for it. He is actually going to be building his motor on my block... cause that block he came accross was for him. Since I'm ahead of him with the build, I got to use it and that's the real whole story. The sad truth is although everyone says they are excited to see my car done, no one is that happy deep down that mine will be done first.[:@] Heck, adam has a full deal with KB and my car will be finished before his - that's gotta eat him up but he's so damn busy - he can't even get to his car for awhile. No crap, he has NINE full builds going on right now on top of everything else. That's why I was telling folks to watch for ST Motorsports cause in the near future - we are going to be EVERYWHERE with some bad *** cars. Lot's of magazine features on the very near horizon and a full canned tune program and national online store coming very soon. Heck, I shouldn't even be telling you this stuff but I really feel for ya. It sucks and I'm really sorry.

My best advice to you is for now go with the tescid block and just have your car put back together with it and your bolt-on's (minus the methonal kit) and go with a conservative tune for now to be safe. (420-440 rwhp) and then later on down the road, you can go an internal kit and bump your boost to 16-18 psi and be right where you want to be safely, ya know?? With just a pretty much stock put back together on the tescid, there's got to be several shops local that can handle that and just use your old tunes from where you were before you started messing with the methonal.

Either way, keep me posted and I sincerely hope your car gets back on the road ASAP...

Mark

 

lost soul,
what exactly happened with your meth/h20 kit? stick on or off? i'm running it on an n/a application really just for consistancy of air inlet temps so i don't pump a ton of mix in mine. in fact my pump is set at 60psi and i only have one 200cc nozzle and it comes on only when the vacuum drops below something like 10in. basically just off idle under load. sorry to hear about your engine that sucks but i still would stand firmly behind some sort of methanol injection on high boost combos. maybe some sort of mechanical injection like the one i had on my dragster just with 3 or 4 small nozzles for safety if one gets clogged or something.

 

I will.. thanks mark. Ic an still do the mmr thing.. but thats 800 bucks.. and I get to stick with an alum block (03/04) mach block. Its sad.. with over 2 months looking into options.. I'm still confused as I was then.. haha.. maybe there is no real right way to do it.. just see if I get lucky with something will last.. You mentioned one thing that I already plan and thats to run at the 450 or under for a while and make sure everything pans out. Maybe I should give adam #10 to work on

 

Spyder, I can't remember the whole details of his explanation so I don't want to misquote him, but adam explained to me why the meth kits are bad for our cars when they have a s/c. He explained how they SHOULD work and are supposed to for us but why they don't but I can't remeber the whole explanation. But he was adamant that he would NOT put one on my car. He did say he has already put a couple on n/a cars though and was convinced it was the s/c application that was the problem. I do remember him finishing with, "once the problem is figured out and tried and proven, it will be a great set-up for us, but for now, I wouldn't touch them." You can always email him directly for more info:

info@spankintime.com - may take a couple days, but he always responds back... eventually

 

interesting. we are putting one on my dads powerstroke in a couple weeks so i sure hope that doesn't apply for turbo deisels. i would suspect maybe the problem is in the delivery volume and consistancy for s/c cars. i have no experience with them so i won't speculate any more. i do know that many people are just plain scared of methanol. i had friends that wouldn't get around my roadster while it was running cause they were afraid it would explode or something. these are guys who have been around racing most of their lives. they thought i was crazy (they were just misinformed) but hell in serious bracket racing if your not running alcohol your usually losing due to the consistancy factor but you must absolutely have a reliable high volume delivery system. thats why all the components for my system were hand picked by me with help from the guys at snow with exactly what i need and no more. i only use it at the track also.

 

i think you shoudl get a crate 518

 

To make a long story short we used a 2 stage snowperformance unite.. it used a 330ml nozzle. That day we installed the new hto plugs, 12# pully and belts, and maf extender. when we dynoed it was 5500rpm and under. The first run was ok.. but no real power came on. The ones after that is when things because off. around 4K or so the car would start some jerking/coughing. We were not sure what caused this. We took out the maf extender and the boost cooler and that seemd to help.. we though it was the maf wiring and put it back.. and it did it again. when we took everything off and that run was ok.. but again.. no realy power gains.. I got 8 more hp then when I rolled in with. By the time we got it to meth water it was too late.. she blew.. Things that I noted was water droplets comming from the TB.. could have been condenstaion?, 12# was showing on my boost gauge but no real power improvment was seen. My tuner thinks she blew because of too much hp.. but since it was dieing on the dyno at 4K rpm and only making 8 hp. I'm not really buying that. Since he is sticking with his story I can not find the real facts so I have to move on. all I know is the the nozzle side was the right one.. but as to the tune and postion of the nozzle we just dont know. So for right now this meth kit is usless to me till more test are done.