Avoid granny shifting and make sure to double clutch as if you were shifting a non-synchro transmission out of a semi from 1954. Double clutching is used by speed-racers when downshifting; foot off the gas, mash clutch, put tranny in neutral, let off clutch, mash clutch, blip the gas, put tranny one gear lower than before, punch the NOS button and mash the accelerator. Sounds easy, doesn't it? Remember, if you do it right the transmission will make cool grinding sounds. Grinding adds power through weight reduction; the less material on the gear or synchro, the faster it spins!

Ok, so ignore that....

What about downshifting or power shifting while driving?

Think about it, when you downshift normally when your driving, what happens? An insane amount of torque as you move into the Powerband. Now add an extra instantaneous 100 torque and 100 hp to that downshift, what happens? Your going to break traction and fly into a pole. Nitrous is made to be used as you increase RPMs. This stops you from going crazy. But if you engage nitrous, and from crusing in 5th you pop it into 3rd, you are asking for trouble.

Powershifting is a big NO NO with nitrous. If you do not left off the gas, the the engine RPMs will spike to fuel cut off. If your running a dry kit, your engine will the full of N20 and no fuel, which will cause a grossly lean situation. If your runnign a wet kit, its not as bad because your still supplying fuel with the nitrous. However, the engine is not getting enough ans as you reach your approch the max RPM, the PCM can't stop your engine RPM because nitrous will still be spraying. This can cause spun bearings, thrown rods, etc.

What if I miss a gear?

Well then your screwed. Immediatly take your foot off the gas. Do not leave the car at WOT, if you do, you won't be able to stop your engine from over-revving and doing damage. When you finally get the gear, ease back onto WOT, don't quickly go there, or you will lose traction.

 

As far as the tuning...

I have an SCT XcalII and I know when I do my kit I will need to switch tunes at the track. Can I just take my tune and modify it by 4 deg across the entire rpm range before my run to spray a 100 shot, or do I have to take it to a tuner. I really hate to go to a tuner since it's a 3 hour drive away. I would much rather be able to ajust my tune by myself, but if I dont have that enough controll with my sct, I guess I'll have to get a tune.

I know I can adjust spark timing, but will that be enough?

 

I want to say yes, but I don't think so. It wouldn't be safe, expecially over 75. The whole point of a tuner is to monitor your A/F ratio. If you have a wideband gauge in your car, then you can do that, and make sure it doesn't lean out. A tuner will be able to squeeze the most power out of your nitrous (especially a good one) and is well worth the drive. If you don't want to get it tuned, and your running a 100 shot, retard it 4 degress, AND listen for knocking or any strange sound. If you hear anything weird, stop and take it to the tuner.

~Fred

 

Just FYI when double clutching you should blip the gas when the transmission is in neutral and the clutch is out

 

Haha, What does that have to do with nitrous?

~Fred

 

wow! very impressive. thanks for the info i hope u are just an extreme gear head cause im guessing thats about a full day or twosworth of research and aint just that bored.

 

Forums are about talking and learning from each other and asking questions. If everyone were like you than nothing would get accomplished on this site (or taught). By the way and off that topic...the write up was great and I learned a few things that I never knew about NOS. I know how to use it in the hospital but never had installed into the car! Thanks J

 

Hey guys, anybody have a picture of their Fuel Pressure Safety Switch installed?
Thanks!

 

Are the gap on the H20's preset or should I checkem?

 

Yes, they are pre-gapped.

~Fred