b_hollier

IN reference to LeJay's post. "Shear" is NOT the main cause of motor oil to break down and cause problems. You really need to look for an oil the resists thermal breakdown. Mobil and Castrol I find to be the best products. I use the Mobil in my vette since that is what is recommended by GM and Castrol for my Mustang. Castrol is a BP owned company, I figure since they suggest BP fuel might as well go with BP oil. I would not pay any attention to the hydro craking argument, since most of the fuel you use for your vehicles are made through "CAT" craking, hydrocraking is actually a very old method and not as common as Cat cracking. If you need any info I have plenty of reference papers I could send.

I usually change my oil out every 3k, no matter if it is synthetic or not.

BLACK06GT4ME

WOW!, that was really quite interesting. I had to return back to the top to remember what the origional queston was though. Never realized how complex oil is, perhaps I can start a threat on gas or engine coolant. After a couple months on this site I should be a fully qualified mechanic or perhaps a chemical engineer. Did we ever get the answer to the origional question?

Black GT

My answer to the original question is: the owner's manual states 6qts. total with oil and filter change.

Blackness

owners manual says 6.0 quarts including filter change for the 4.6

backinblack06

Damn, wait, so you don't mix the oil in with the gas............................................... .......I was thinkin 6.5 quarts in the fuel tank was quite unrealistic......at least, that was the conclusion of my mathematical analysis.


I've always done 6 quarts, gauge still reads full so basically how about we just leave this whole thing at, our cars have a half quart buffer zone!!! Half more or half less than 6.5 is perfectly acceptible.[sm=yeahsmile.gif]

algregory

Redline for ME! Been using for years and thousands of miles. Been changing every 4k, changing the GT every 5k miles. But the GT is not getting much town driving, just fun driving.

Take a look at www.tufoil.com for a great addition. My last car, now my "run-a-bout", is an old '78 BMW 30i, very tweaked, but, with that engine you gotta run it make it GO! At 132k I had a custom engine rebuild. 128k miles later, 260k on the Odo, 26 sets of tires total, the machinist recomended the Tufoil, and that thins runs really slick! In the GT I put in Redline in the 5 speed also and a 10% mix of Tufoil.

By the way, SF Bay Area, Redline is about $7.95/Qt. The Tufoil clocks in at about $40/Qt.

LEJAY

Read your OM , oil additives voids your warranty.

W1ldcat

Right there, But is Ford going to take a oil sample to the lab to check? Probably not. I am always interested in learning about diffrent oil like Amsoil or Royal Purple etc. I have never tried them myself though.

05CLASSIC

Since we're on the oil subject, is ther a major difference between 5w20 and 5w30. I know they recommend 5w20 but I can get a great deal on 5w30(Mobil 1). Any feedback???