Yes, dynojet #'s no mustang dyno available near me It is still capable of doing wide-band pulls and works just fine for tuning. Can anyone explain why there is a difference in the two different types of dyno? And which should be considered REAL horsepower numbers

 

I wouldn't consider ANY Dyno to be particularly accurate. Some are known to "be high" and some are known to be low, but as far as instrumentation goes, most Dynos are pretty inaccurate. And "crank correction" is notoriously inaccurate.

In my opinion the best use of a dyno is to track differences in HP/TQ when evaluating mods. For example, let's say you Dyno 315 RWHP and then after modifing you pull 326 RWHP on the same Dyno and under the same conditions. I wouldn't be very confident in the final number. But, you can be much more confident in the DIFFERENCE between the two. In this example maybe your RWHP is actually 320 or maybe 330. But you can be pretty damn sure that the mod gave you +11 HP. That's because the latent inaccuracy of the dyno will cancel out when you're only considering the DIFFERENCE (before-after).

 

Yeah the only dyno i use is how far and how fast i get thrown into the seat.

 

So - if these are really modified stock Ford plates - why couldn't we just modify our original ones? What happens to the solenoid after the removal of the CMRC? Are you left with an empty connector? I assume (maybe incorrectly) the tune would take care of it not being connected any longer. Is that right?

 

i would rather buy new ones so that if some day they figure out how to recalibrate for reinstallation of the stock ones, i can at least say that i have the stock ones layin around and don't have them all cut up and stuff

 

I haven't examined the stock ones, but I belive you could do as follows based on the pictures I've seen:

Remove the whole assembly from the car. Remove the solenoid and the linkage from the individual aluminum pcs. that fit onto the head. Remove the butterflies, then slide out the shafts. The holes left behind from where the shaft sat could then be filled with a good quality epoxy, such as JB-weld. Once it cures, sand down the epoxy so it is flush with the intake passages. Then, reassemble.

I belive you just leave the servo wiring harness plug dangling. The tune takes care of the rest.