Consumer reports Wax results
06-02-2006, 08:37 PM
#1
5th Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Babylon, NY
Posts: 3,031
Consumer reports Wax results
I'm not sure if I'm allowed to copy this but oh well, let's give it a try. See results.
[IMG]local://upfiles/16153/893C68651A36431CB83A871F59F51171.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]local://upfiles/16153/893C68651A36431CB83A871F59F51171.jpg[/IMG]
06-02-2006, 09:54 PM
#4
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Babylon, NY
Posts: 3,031
RE: Consumer reports Wax results
I doubt that, I've used Nu finish on every car I've owned and planned to drive through the winter. I apply it in November and it lasts me to March every year!
06-02-2006, 10:32 PM
#7
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Join Date: Nov 2005
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Posts: 2,227
RE: Consumer reports Wax results
Lots of good ones out there; Meguiar's G12664 is excellent; I see it online for $7.95 + ship and WalMart has for $3.97 on sale right now.
I just had my car detailed (to remove a few fine scratches and a few swirl marks I made by "not knowing")
Learned some great things in talking to the detailer (who does a lot of high end cars and final buffs new clearcoat finishes for local shops)
Here's a few things he mentioned and or things I mentioned to him that I had heard about which he actually agreed upon.
1) Never wax w/o a thorough washing first. ...just in case some of you folks think a California duster is cleaning it enough to proceed to waxing.
2) Spend a good deal of time rinsing the entire car first. (working from top to bottom); Use a strong spray to rinse out all seams, joints and any area which can collect dust or dirt particles. Then one final rinse (top to bottom);
3) Washing: buy a new bucket and a bucket bottom screen; wash with microfiber mitt or towel. Use a quality auto wash soap. Barely luke warm water; do not use hot water.
4) Final rinse w/o any nozzle; just open hose; you want to "sheet" rinse; (top to bottom) I love how well this works such that there is less water remaining.
5) He dries with a very expensive microfibre towel; which when I heard the price I told him I had tried two different mfg microfiber cloths and they just weren't absorbent enough for my liking. I showed him the BlackMagic Absorbing Cloth that I am using (Black Magic Wash & Dry Vehicle Step 3). He said he knows guys that use it and love it; he just hasn't had a chance to try it yet. I work under 6 double 4' florescents and I can tell if even the slightest swirl or scratch appears and this product has given me flawless results.
6) Car must be dried indoors; garage door closed; blow all water from joints or seams (use compressor or dedicated shop vac) No waxing until completey dry.
7) Waxing. I originally scratched my clear coat waxing a test area on my hood for the first time 6 weeks after the flames were done. Immediately upon removing the Mothers Gold Carnuba that had just dried to a haze I saw fine scraches in the clear over the area that was black; couldn't see them in the yellow, orange, red but I know they had to be there as well. When you have the darkest base color (black) and no factory orange peel you'll see everything; even w/o all the florescents. My mistake... letting the wax dry to a haze; oh yeah the directions say that but even going as gently as I could with the softest microfiber I have I could see very very fine scratches (over the black only). Talked to this detailer about it and no way should you let the wax haze over. ...removal then is w/o any lubicating properties of the wax; you are essentially dragging and tearing the haze off your clearcoat. I don't care what the mfg says; I saw it happen and this prof detailer does not let wax dry to a haze. He uses a Meguiar's paste and applies to an area, then to a second area, then comes back to the first area before it has hazed over and wipes it away, then does the second area and repeat this process. He said it definetly takes longer but you aren't tearing into the clearcoat. I believe he said he applies with terry cloth pad and removes with microfiber. Again, must be done indoors with garage door closed. I told him that because I was only weekend and cruise night driving I planned to typically use Eagle One Nonowax, no-haze, carnuba spray wax. ...partly because I was still a bit paranoid about using the paste wax. He said that was perfect for my situation (no rain, infrequent sun, limited exposure to dirt and dust) and that the application will have more of a lubricating affect and with the mirror buffed black that I have, it's a wise choice and will not marr the clearcoat.
I'm probaby forgetting some things; so if I missed something significant I'll update this info. I know everyone has their ways and for me I'm always looking for steps that actually make logical sense not just what people are used to or have a preference on. You know what I mean. On a factory white paint job all of this is not so important but if you want to keep that black stang looking top notch you need all the tricks of the trade. Hope this has helped. ...Jim
BTW: I'm not sure about that study either; funny thing is when I was asking the detailer about any waxes not to use, he just said don't use any Turtle Wax products; "they're junk". ...and they're at the top of the list.
I just had my car detailed (to remove a few fine scratches and a few swirl marks I made by "not knowing")
Learned some great things in talking to the detailer (who does a lot of high end cars and final buffs new clearcoat finishes for local shops)
Here's a few things he mentioned and or things I mentioned to him that I had heard about which he actually agreed upon.
1) Never wax w/o a thorough washing first. ...just in case some of you folks think a California duster is cleaning it enough to proceed to waxing.
2) Spend a good deal of time rinsing the entire car first. (working from top to bottom); Use a strong spray to rinse out all seams, joints and any area which can collect dust or dirt particles. Then one final rinse (top to bottom);
3) Washing: buy a new bucket and a bucket bottom screen; wash with microfiber mitt or towel. Use a quality auto wash soap. Barely luke warm water; do not use hot water.
4) Final rinse w/o any nozzle; just open hose; you want to "sheet" rinse; (top to bottom) I love how well this works such that there is less water remaining.
5) He dries with a very expensive microfibre towel; which when I heard the price I told him I had tried two different mfg microfiber cloths and they just weren't absorbent enough for my liking. I showed him the BlackMagic Absorbing Cloth that I am using (Black Magic Wash & Dry Vehicle Step 3). He said he knows guys that use it and love it; he just hasn't had a chance to try it yet. I work under 6 double 4' florescents and I can tell if even the slightest swirl or scratch appears and this product has given me flawless results.
6) Car must be dried indoors; garage door closed; blow all water from joints or seams (use compressor or dedicated shop vac) No waxing until completey dry.
7) Waxing. I originally scratched my clear coat waxing a test area on my hood for the first time 6 weeks after the flames were done. Immediately upon removing the Mothers Gold Carnuba that had just dried to a haze I saw fine scraches in the clear over the area that was black; couldn't see them in the yellow, orange, red but I know they had to be there as well. When you have the darkest base color (black) and no factory orange peel you'll see everything; even w/o all the florescents. My mistake... letting the wax dry to a haze; oh yeah the directions say that but even going as gently as I could with the softest microfiber I have I could see very very fine scratches (over the black only). Talked to this detailer about it and no way should you let the wax haze over. ...removal then is w/o any lubicating properties of the wax; you are essentially dragging and tearing the haze off your clearcoat. I don't care what the mfg says; I saw it happen and this prof detailer does not let wax dry to a haze. He uses a Meguiar's paste and applies to an area, then to a second area, then comes back to the first area before it has hazed over and wipes it away, then does the second area and repeat this process. He said it definetly takes longer but you aren't tearing into the clearcoat. I believe he said he applies with terry cloth pad and removes with microfiber. Again, must be done indoors with garage door closed. I told him that because I was only weekend and cruise night driving I planned to typically use Eagle One Nonowax, no-haze, carnuba spray wax. ...partly because I was still a bit paranoid about using the paste wax. He said that was perfect for my situation (no rain, infrequent sun, limited exposure to dirt and dust) and that the application will have more of a lubricating affect and with the mirror buffed black that I have, it's a wise choice and will not marr the clearcoat.
I'm probaby forgetting some things; so if I missed something significant I'll update this info. I know everyone has their ways and for me I'm always looking for steps that actually make logical sense not just what people are used to or have a preference on. You know what I mean. On a factory white paint job all of this is not so important but if you want to keep that black stang looking top notch you need all the tricks of the trade. Hope this has helped. ...Jim
BTW: I'm not sure about that study either; funny thing is when I was asking the detailer about any waxes not to use, he just said don't use any Turtle Wax products; "they're junk". ...and they're at the top of the list.
06-02-2006, 11:33 PM
#8
2nd Gear Member
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Stamford, CT
Posts: 354
RE: Consumer reports Wax results
Why do they not test all of the better brands? Zaino Bros, Klasse, Wolfgang, DP??
I use Zaino and none of the brands they test even come close, yes it takes longer and costs more than those put it on, wait till it gets hazy and wipe it off, but the results are amazing.
I use Zaino and none of the brands they test even come close, yes it takes longer and costs more than those put it on, wait till it gets hazy and wipe it off, but the results are amazing.
06-02-2006, 11:45 PM
#9
3rd Gear Member
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location:
Posts: 749
RE: Consumer reports Wax results
ORIGINAL: drbobvs
I doubt that, I've used Nu finish on every car I've owned and planned to drive through the winter. I apply it in November and it lasts me to March every year!
I doubt that, I've used Nu finish on every car I've owned and planned to drive through the winter. I apply it in November and it lasts me to March every year!
I was a Meguiar's man and used to laugh at my 77 year old Dad who swore by nu-finish. Then he "made" me put a coat on his car. Holy crap. A piece of cake to apply, and the results are right up there with the best of the best. And, it seems to last every bit as long as the meg's.....
06-02-2006, 11:48 PM
#10
5th Gear Member
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Nor Cal
Posts: 2,179
RE: Consumer reports Wax results
ORIGINAL: JJ_Stang
Why do they not test all of the better brands? Zaino Bros, Klasse, Wolfgang, DP??
I use Zaino and none of the brands they test even come close, yes it takes longer and costs more than those put it on, wait till it gets hazy and wipe it off, but the results are amazing.
Why do they not test all of the better brands? Zaino Bros, Klasse, Wolfgang, DP??
I use Zaino and none of the brands they test even come close, yes it takes longer and costs more than those put it on, wait till it gets hazy and wipe it off, but the results are amazing.
The reasons they do not test those is they are not OTC products.
fairlane292
You can remove the waxes and polishes after they have hazed just be sure and mist your microfiber towel with some QD it works great no scratches that way. You should also claybar the entire car before attempting any type of polishing or waxing. Using high quality products including Microfibers is the key.
If you want the car to look it's best you have to invest the time and money in the proper products and prep time.
Richard