LesteR723

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/05-06...QQcmdZViewItem

i'm new to the aftermarket suspension stuff... is that any good? i'm lookin to stiffen up the stang a bit. Its v6 and automatic, i have to find a way to have some fun [>:]

bl1nk

all the tower braces I have seen have dual bars and some kind of support in the middle, I would hold out for a little longer and get one of a better quality.. theyre not that much more expensive

Remrats1234

i agree with bli1nkage really good known brands will have the same thing at not much more money, and then u will have a for sure brand to back up their product

CrazyAl

The strongest strut tower bar, by far, is the BMR version. I think it's about $150, if my memory serves. If you want to buy a strut tower bar, that's the one to get in my opinion.


That being said, the general consensus seems to be that the improvements from the strut tower bar (any brand) are minimal, if there is any at all. The new mustang body is VERY stiff, and there simply isn't much, if any, of a need for the strut bar. If you want to spend money upgrading your suspension, much more effective mods are new rear lower control arms or an upgraded rear sway bar. These will make much more difference than the strut tower bar.

LesteR723

yeah, i'm doing that anyway... i'm gonna call hellwig in a few days and get the rear bar, and get a beefier front sway bar sooner or later. Thanks for the information on the strut tower bar... you saved me some money and time!

edit: what would be the point of new lower control arms?

CrazyAl

The stock lower control arms are cheaply made. They are just a stamped piece of steel with soft rubber bushings in them. This is resposible for the wheelhop problem that has been very commonly reported, becasue the LCAs flex too much. I don't know if this is as much of a problem with the V6, but it is definatley one with the V8.

The aftermarket ones are much stronger and have polyurethane bushings. This enables the suspension to pivot like it is designed to, but gets rid of the unwanted flexing. It greatly reduces the wheelhop problem and provides better traction.


By the way, based on what I've been reading on the forum, it's the REAR sway bar that is most beneficial to replace on our cars. Maybe someone else with more experience in that area can weigh in?

classj

The BMR strut bar looks strong but also looks heavy. And that is a bad place to add weight. I am thinking of getting the one from strange development. They talk a really good game and it seems to make some sense. Or racing dynamics usually makes nice braces. I have used one on a M3 that fit well and was strong and light. I think they came out with a mustang one too.

The cars are set up to push from the factory when driven hard. A larger rear bar will allow faster turn in in theory and should make the car handle better. Most stuff I read claims the GT-500 just has a larger rear bar. That would be the bar I would do first.

Just be aware that while the beefier control arms are a good idea, poly or polygraphite bushings present problems. I have used them on a couple 60's muscle car restos and eventually pulled them out of cars that were used alot.

Basically they require maintinence. The silent block style rubber bushings do not but they flex. SO decide what you want, a little maintinence or flex.

On my mopar I have replaced the poly sway bar bushings twice already in the several thousand or so miles since the resto. And have taken them apart and cleaned them and greased them a few times in between.

The grease attracts dirt which turns it into sanding paste and wears the parts out. On cold days they are noisy and creek, etc. So I changed all the control arm bushings back to rubber. Only the sway bar bushings are poly and get serviced as needed.

bl1nk

Would you happen to know if the BMR bar clears the GT plenum covers?