My goal is to get 500 hp at the wheels without modifying the engine internals. So is there anyone out there running this kind of power reliably? If so, do you drive your car nicely or rev it out? Any help from people who have real life experience would help. Thanks!

 

500 to the wheels on a 3v block with stock internals is risky, I am a huge steeda fan ( have owned 2 factory Steeda racers ) and I have been in comunication with them on my project build up and they dont advise going over 450 with the stock internals although I was told
I wouldnt need major internals to acheive the 600 at the wheels which is a long term goal for me based on cash flow and another deployment to Iraq. There are already alot of write ups on what to get internally to get the power you want and I am sure a few experts here will steer you in the correct direction.

 

The safest IMO would be with a turbo, the numbers in my sig are on an otherwise stock car, including stock mufflers and the car was also hot when the dyno was done. The reason it would be the safest IMO is because there is very little parasitic loss with the turbo compared to a supercharger.

 

Ok, I can buy that. Since you went the turbo route tell me a little bit about it. What kind of boost are you running to get those numbers? Is it a single or twin turbo set-up? What was the cost for you out the door to get all the work done? And have you ever run it at the track yet?

 

I am running 9.5lbs on a VERY conservative tune, there is a lot more in it if I wanted to lean on the car. The turbo kit is $5495 complete with nothing else needed. It is a single turbo, I see full boost by 2900 RPMs. I have run it at the track a couple times, but I am still trying to learn to launch the car. Turbo cars are harder to launch than other forms of f/i with a manual transmission. Based on my 90mph trap speed in the 1/8 with stock gears I should be able to get the car down to 7.60s-7.70s. With a set of gears I would pick up a tremendous bit because I would be using more of my power band in 3rd gear.

 

not tryin to be an ***, but what does parasitic loss have to do with modifying engine internals? has nothin to do with the bottom end blowin out on ya. flip a rod, an does it matter what kinda power adder yer running? if you're gonna go over 425 hp, and run it consistently through high rpms, you need to get forged internals. i.e. rods, pistons, rings, etc. the factory parts will work, yes. but the question isnt if they're going to wear out, its when. ask anyone running 500hp+, you cant sustain that abuse on the stock engine internals without ending up on the losing end. and thats not an opinion, just statin facts

 

I highly suggest you do more reading on the physics of internal cumbustion engines before trying to make someone out as a fool and in the process prove you don't know what you are talking about.

Actually it has everything to do with parasitic loss if you are trying to reach a certain RWHP figure. Look at it this way since the s/c is turned by the crank it takes HP to turn it, if it were spun at the same speed by another means then the motor would make more power at the crank because it has one less thing to turn. The same principle as an electric water pump. If a motor makes 500RWHP with no engine driven accessories and a turbo and a motor makes 500RWHP with full accessories and a s/c common sense tells us there is more drag on the motor turning the accessories and the s/c thus the motor has to work harder and the crank, rods and pistons see more force in an effort to make the same power to the wheels. Let's look at the following example:

Less parasitic drag and free flowing exhaust frees up hp that will make it look like the car is making more power but in reality you aren't making more power just using it more effectively and not wasting as much. If a car has a s/c and is making 450rwhp at 8psi, and you install longtubes and a off-road H-pipe. Most likely the boost pressure will drop because there is less back pressure in the exhaust, the motor is still injesting just as much air as it was before because the s/c is still spinning at the same speed. The free flowing exhaust will then allow the motor to use its power more efficently which will result in an increase in HP at the wheels. The motor isn't actually making more hp because it would take more airflow into the motor and more fuel to do that, therefore the motor can't be working any harder even though we may realize a 30hp increase at the wheels. What we have realized is an increase due to less parasitic loss.

As we can see from the above, giving a set number that is safe isn't accurate, because there are a lot of factors that need to be taken into consideration when comparing RWHP.

 

I agree...
It is common knowledge that you have to subract 40-50 HP "off the top" of a belt driven S/C. A turbo doesn't make power for "free," cause you get a little more backpressure that the pistons need to pump against, but not as bad as turning my rotors.
Kinda like the aluminum driveshaft--it does not "make" any horsepower, but you save rotational inertial weight.

Hey bus,
I was in Concord last night at Harris Racing for a dyno run. I'm still having fuel problems with my ride. The curve started running fat, then went real lean at about 4500--where he shut it off. I was at 350HP there. My torque curve is all over the place too.
He suggested staying cool till he can retune my stock KB fuel curve after the Mustang Meet at the beach. I was going to Mooresville tonight to run, but if I go it may just be to smell burning rubber on other peoples cars

 

your gonna need a very good tune and an intercooler, but either way, ur flirtin with disaster.

 

I'd be real happy with 425 to the wheels on the stock internals. This is generally considered to be safe without runnig the rpms well above 6 grand?