Damn! Full synthetic oil is expensive!
08-07-2006, 07:12 PM
#1
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Join Date: Jun 2006
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Posts: 675
Damn! Full synthetic oil is expensive!
Well I got almost 1,000 miles on my GT so I thought I'd go ahead and get a filter and some oil for it's first oil change (still ot sure how many miles to wait). I figured since this car isn't exactly cheap and is considered a high performance vehicle I would get mobil 1 full synthetic. The last time I bought full synthetic oil was about 7 years ago when I still had my motorcycle. I was shocked to see it's now $6 per quart and that was a sale price! After doing some tough calculations in store ( $6.00 x 6 quarts = $36) I opted for a nice vavoline durablend for $3 and some change per quart. Maybe i'll use the blend now and at 5k miles i'll go to the full synthetic.
What was that oil additive you are supposed to add to coat the engine parts? I remember it was all the rage a few years back, but can't remember the name.
Should I save the durablend for the wifes car and get full synthetic now for my baby? Maybe walmart is having a sale.
What was that oil additive you are supposed to add to coat the engine parts? I remember it was all the rage a few years back, but can't remember the name.
Should I save the durablend for the wifes car and get full synthetic now for my baby? Maybe walmart is having a sale.
08-07-2006, 07:20 PM
#2
6th Gear Member
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Laredo, TEXAS
Posts: 6,054
RE: Damn! Full synthetic oil is expensive!
ORIGINAL: GTlust
Well I got almost 1,000 miles on my GT so I thought I'd go ahead and get a filter and some oil for it's first oil change (still ot sure how many miles to wait). I figured since this car isn't exactly cheap and is considered a high performance vehicle I would get mobil 1 full synthetic. The last time I bought full synthetic oil was about 7 years ago when I still had my motorcycle. I was shocked to see it's now $6 per quart and that was a sale price! After doing some tough calculations in store ( $6.00 x 6 quarts = $36) I opted for a nice vavoline durablend for $3 and some change per quart. Maybe i'll use the blend now and at 5k miles i'll go to the full synthetic.
What was that oil additive you are supposed to add to coat the engine parts? I remember it was all the rage a few years back, but can't remember the name.
Should I save the durablend for the wifes car and get full synthetic now for my baby? Maybe walmart is having a sale.
Well I got almost 1,000 miles on my GT so I thought I'd go ahead and get a filter and some oil for it's first oil change (still ot sure how many miles to wait). I figured since this car isn't exactly cheap and is considered a high performance vehicle I would get mobil 1 full synthetic. The last time I bought full synthetic oil was about 7 years ago when I still had my motorcycle. I was shocked to see it's now $6 per quart and that was a sale price! After doing some tough calculations in store ( $6.00 x 6 quarts = $36) I opted for a nice vavoline durablend for $3 and some change per quart. Maybe i'll use the blend now and at 5k miles i'll go to the full synthetic.
What was that oil additive you are supposed to add to coat the engine parts? I remember it was all the rage a few years back, but can't remember the name.
Should I save the durablend for the wifes car and get full synthetic now for my baby? Maybe walmart is having a sale.
08-07-2006, 10:51 PM
#4
2nd Gear Member
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location:
Posts: 334
RE: Damn! Full synthetic oil is expensive!
What was that oil additive you are supposed to add to coat the engine parts? I remember it was all the rage a few years back, but can't remember the name.
There is absolutely NO reason whatsoever to ever use an oil additive as there is NOTHING on the market that can help better lubricate the motor better then a good FULL synthetic oil such as Mobil 1 and changing the oil and filter every 3,000 to 5,000 miles.
While I can see how $5 - $6 a quart might seem expensive its really very cheap insurance and a very cheap maintenance item to add longtivity to your motor, at least in my opinion.
Myself I intend on using Mobil 1 full synthetic oil when I get to 2,500 miles. I only have 800 miles on it now and will change the oil with the Motorcraft blend at 1,000 miles then 1,500 miles, and at 2,000 miles along with filters at each change. I regard those changes as flushing the motor of the original oil and any contaminates, such as metal shavings.
Once I get to 2,500 miles I will put in the Mobil 1 full synthetic, along with filter, and then change it again at 3,000 miles with filter. That will be to flush the motor of the blended oil used before. After that I will change the oil and filter every 3,000 miles using Mobil 1 full synthetic and Motorcraft oil filter.
Is that ****, you bet, but to me its just cheap insurance and what I personally consider a good initial break-in maintenance for the motor. Will it help my motor last longer then others who don’t do that, I have no facts to prove that however I do know it will not harm the motor at all.
08-07-2006, 11:07 PM
#5
5th Gear Member
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Nor Cal
Posts: 2,179
RE: Damn! Full synthetic oil is expensive!
ORIGINAL: Sonic Boom NH
As W1ldCat stated Slick-50 may be what you’re thinking and it does NOT help your motor but CAN screw up the internals.
There is absolutely NO reason whatsoever to ever use an oil additive as there is NOTHING on the market that can help better lubricate the motor better then a good FULL synthetic oil such as Mobil 1 and changing the oil and filter every 3,000 to 5,000 miles.
While I can see how $5 - $6 a quart might seem expensive its really very cheap insurance and a very cheap maintenance item to add longtivity to your motor, at least in my opinion.
Myself I intend on using Mobil 1 full synthetic oil when I get to 2,500 miles. I only have 800 miles on it now and will change the oil with the Motorcraft blend at 1,000 miles then 1,500 miles, and at 2,000 miles along with filters at each change. I regard those changes as flushing the motor of the original oil and any contaminates, such as metal shavings.
Once I get to 2,500 miles I will put in the Mobil 1 full synthetic, along with filter, and then change it again at 3,000 miles with filter. That will be to flush the motor of the blended oil used before. After that I will change the oil and filter every 3,000 miles using Mobil 1 full synthetic and Motorcraft oil filter.
Is that ****, you bet, but to me its just cheap insurance and what I personally consider a good initial break-in maintenance for the motor. Will it help my motor last longer then others who don’t do that, I have no facts to prove that however I do know it will not harm the motor at all.
What was that oil additive you are supposed to add to coat the engine parts? I remember it was all the rage a few years back, but can't remember the name.
There is absolutely NO reason whatsoever to ever use an oil additive as there is NOTHING on the market that can help better lubricate the motor better then a good FULL synthetic oil such as Mobil 1 and changing the oil and filter every 3,000 to 5,000 miles.
While I can see how $5 - $6 a quart might seem expensive its really very cheap insurance and a very cheap maintenance item to add longtivity to your motor, at least in my opinion.
Myself I intend on using Mobil 1 full synthetic oil when I get to 2,500 miles. I only have 800 miles on it now and will change the oil with the Motorcraft blend at 1,000 miles then 1,500 miles, and at 2,000 miles along with filters at each change. I regard those changes as flushing the motor of the original oil and any contaminates, such as metal shavings.
Once I get to 2,500 miles I will put in the Mobil 1 full synthetic, along with filter, and then change it again at 3,000 miles with filter. That will be to flush the motor of the blended oil used before. After that I will change the oil and filter every 3,000 miles using Mobil 1 full synthetic and Motorcraft oil filter.
Is that ****, you bet, but to me its just cheap insurance and what I personally consider a good initial break-in maintenance for the motor. Will it help my motor last longer then others who don’t do that, I have no facts to prove that however I do know it will not harm the motor at all.
+1
But i will let the oil go 5k between changes as 3k really is not necessary. The 3k oil change interval comes from over 20 plus years ago when oils were still very very crude. There is absolutely no reason to change the oil even a conventional at 3k intervals.
A
Richard
08-07-2006, 11:21 PM
#6
1st Gear Member
Join Date: May 2006
Location:
Posts: 68
RE: Damn! Full synthetic oil is expensive!
Myself I intend on using Mobil 1 full synthetic oil when I get to 2,500 miles. I only have 800 miles on it now and will change the oil with the Motorcraft blend at 1,000 miles then 1,500 miles, and at 2,000 miles along with filters at each change. I regard those changes as flushing the motor of the original oil and any contaminates, such as metal shavings.
Once I get to 2,500 miles I will put in the Mobil 1 full synthetic, along with filter, and then change it again at 3,000 miles with filter. That will be to flush the motor of the blended oil used before. After that I will change the oil and filter every 3,000 miles using Mobil 1 full synthetic and Motorcraft oil filter.
Once I get to 2,500 miles I will put in the Mobil 1 full synthetic, along with filter, and then change it again at 3,000 miles with filter. That will be to flush the motor of the blended oil used before. After that I will change the oil and filter every 3,000 miles using Mobil 1 full synthetic and Motorcraft oil filter.
08-07-2006, 11:52 PM
#7
3rd Gear Member
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location:
Posts: 749
RE: Damn! Full synthetic oil is expensive!
Slick-50 was one of the PTFE coating scams of years gone by; it's a waste of time and money, and thus it is almost impossible to find.
In my opinion, blended oil is also a waste of money. The dino oil present in the blend undoes any advantage provided by the synthetic. For cold starting, if half of you oil turns to molasses, you still have mollasses in the crankase and the lube will only move around at the speed of the molasses.
Regarding high temp viscosity breakdown, are you happy if only half your oil breaks down?
Now that having been said I have used dino oil for years in the cold northeast with no difficulties. I have recently switched to synthetic for my GM LS6 since it is basically a racing motor and runs hot as a ***** and that's what it came with from the factory.
If I go to synthetic on any other cars, it's full synthetic for the full benefits, or I won't bother.
Also, by the way, periodically Advanced auto parts will run sales on Castrol Q synthetic for like $2 per quart after rebate.....and they often will have Mobil1 for $4.48 (though I haven't bought Mobil1 in a while......
In my opinion, blended oil is also a waste of money. The dino oil present in the blend undoes any advantage provided by the synthetic. For cold starting, if half of you oil turns to molasses, you still have mollasses in the crankase and the lube will only move around at the speed of the molasses.
Regarding high temp viscosity breakdown, are you happy if only half your oil breaks down?
Now that having been said I have used dino oil for years in the cold northeast with no difficulties. I have recently switched to synthetic for my GM LS6 since it is basically a racing motor and runs hot as a ***** and that's what it came with from the factory.
If I go to synthetic on any other cars, it's full synthetic for the full benefits, or I won't bother.
Also, by the way, periodically Advanced auto parts will run sales on Castrol Q synthetic for like $2 per quart after rebate.....and they often will have Mobil1 for $4.48 (though I haven't bought Mobil1 in a while......
08-08-2006, 12:12 AM
#8
3rd Gear Member
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: New Bern, NC
Posts: 701
RE: Damn! Full synthetic oil is expensive!
Check www.tufoil.com
Machinest that built my 2 litre four banger BMW 130k miles ago recomended it. Cam, pistons, ported, polished, custom distributor, MSD Ignition, 5th computer controlled injector mounted in throttle body for top end fuel flow. Suspension fully "tweaked" for mountain driving entertainment. Run the pants off it, and with 263k miles total I've used 26 sets of tires. Runs great.
My potion is Redline 20-50 and 8 ounces Tufoil every 4k miles.
The GT's potion is Redline 5-20 and 8 ounces of Tufoil every 5k miles, and a 10% mix Tufoil with Redline D4 in the trans.
In my GMC 4.3 litre, Redline 20-50 and 8 ounces Tufoil, 152k miles.
In my '04 Yamaha FJR1300ABS Mobil 1 and 1 ounce Tufoil per quart every 4k miles. Just short of 14k on the odometer.
The GT and the FJR are both reserved for FUN stuff, not commuters, not daily drivers.
Machinest that built my 2 litre four banger BMW 130k miles ago recomended it. Cam, pistons, ported, polished, custom distributor, MSD Ignition, 5th computer controlled injector mounted in throttle body for top end fuel flow. Suspension fully "tweaked" for mountain driving entertainment. Run the pants off it, and with 263k miles total I've used 26 sets of tires. Runs great.
My potion is Redline 20-50 and 8 ounces Tufoil every 4k miles.
The GT's potion is Redline 5-20 and 8 ounces of Tufoil every 5k miles, and a 10% mix Tufoil with Redline D4 in the trans.
In my GMC 4.3 litre, Redline 20-50 and 8 ounces Tufoil, 152k miles.
In my '04 Yamaha FJR1300ABS Mobil 1 and 1 ounce Tufoil per quart every 4k miles. Just short of 14k on the odometer.
The GT and the FJR are both reserved for FUN stuff, not commuters, not daily drivers.
08-08-2006, 05:31 AM
#9
5th Gear Member
Join Date: May 2006
Location: DBN, MI
Posts: 2,578
RE: Damn! Full synthetic oil is expensive!
I've read the web site and heard of this before but the question I have is how is this better than a full synthetic? What is the betterment of only have 8 oz instead of using more? Do you notice the power or gas milage difference?
Thanks for info.
Thanks for info.
ORIGINAL: algregory
Check www.tufoil.com
Machinest that built my 2 litre four banger BMW 130k miles ago recomended it. Cam, pistons, ported, polished, custom distributor, MSD Ignition, 5th computer controlled injector mounted in throttle body for top end fuel flow. Suspension fully "tweaked" for mountain driving entertainment. Run the pants off it, and with 263k miles total I've used 26 sets of tires. Runs great.
My potion is Redline 20-50 and 8 ounces Tufoil every 4k miles.
The GT's potion is Redline 5-20 and 8 ounces of Tufoil every 5k miles, and a 10% mix Tufoil with Redline D4 in the trans.
In my GMC 4.3 litre, Redline 20-50 and 8 ounces Tufoil, 152k miles.
In my '04 Yamaha FJR1300ABS Mobil 1 and 1 ounce Tufoil per quart every 4k miles. Just short of 14k on the odometer.
The GT and the FJR are both reserved for FUN stuff, not commuters, not daily drivers.
Check www.tufoil.com
Machinest that built my 2 litre four banger BMW 130k miles ago recomended it. Cam, pistons, ported, polished, custom distributor, MSD Ignition, 5th computer controlled injector mounted in throttle body for top end fuel flow. Suspension fully "tweaked" for mountain driving entertainment. Run the pants off it, and with 263k miles total I've used 26 sets of tires. Runs great.
My potion is Redline 20-50 and 8 ounces Tufoil every 4k miles.
The GT's potion is Redline 5-20 and 8 ounces of Tufoil every 5k miles, and a 10% mix Tufoil with Redline D4 in the trans.
In my GMC 4.3 litre, Redline 20-50 and 8 ounces Tufoil, 152k miles.
In my '04 Yamaha FJR1300ABS Mobil 1 and 1 ounce Tufoil per quart every 4k miles. Just short of 14k on the odometer.
The GT and the FJR are both reserved for FUN stuff, not commuters, not daily drivers.
08-08-2006, 10:13 AM
#10
I ♥ Acer
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location:
Posts: 619
RE: Damn! Full synthetic oil is expensive!
ORIGINAL: GTlust
Well I got almost 1,000 miles on my GT so I thought I'd go ahead and get a filter and some oil for it's first oil change (still ot sure how many miles to wait). I figured since this car isn't exactly cheap and is considered a high performance vehicle I would get mobil 1 full synthetic. The last time I bought full synthetic oil was about 7 years ago when I still had my motorcycle. I was shocked to see it's now $6 per quart and that was a sale price! After doing some tough calculations in store ( $6.00 x 6 quarts = $36) I opted for a nice vavoline durablend for $3 and some change per quart. Maybe i'll use the blend now and at 5k miles i'll go to the full synthetic.
What was that oil additive you are supposed to add to coat the engine parts? I remember it was all the rage a few years back, but can't remember the name.
Should I save the durablend for the wifes car and get full synthetic now for my baby? Maybe walmart is having a sale.
Well I got almost 1,000 miles on my GT so I thought I'd go ahead and get a filter and some oil for it's first oil change (still ot sure how many miles to wait). I figured since this car isn't exactly cheap and is considered a high performance vehicle I would get mobil 1 full synthetic. The last time I bought full synthetic oil was about 7 years ago when I still had my motorcycle. I was shocked to see it's now $6 per quart and that was a sale price! After doing some tough calculations in store ( $6.00 x 6 quarts = $36) I opted for a nice vavoline durablend for $3 and some change per quart. Maybe i'll use the blend now and at 5k miles i'll go to the full synthetic.
What was that oil additive you are supposed to add to coat the engine parts? I remember it was all the rage a few years back, but can't remember the name.
Should I save the durablend for the wifes car and get full synthetic now for my baby? Maybe walmart is having a sale.
Here is a good site about oil questions and such: www.bobistheoilguy.com
Hope this helps.
Mike