Pics wanted, please..
09-03-2006, 05:15 PM
#1
Mustang Nazi
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Texas, baby
Posts: 13,444
Pics wanted, please..
Would like to see ya'lls 05-07 GT's with chin spoilers. I have been looking at Cervinis (the Mrs didn't like them, it's for her car) and CDC. So, post up and THANKS.
09-03-2006, 07:35 PM
#2
5th Gear Member
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location:
Posts: 2,227
RE: Pics wanted, please..
CDC Agressive:
- custom fabbed in with no seams or inner opening side screws visible.
[IMG]local://upfiles/24316/09D788A6E99D4957BC7E4817A527FD13.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]local://upfiles/24316/B8B067D9FBC94187BE620BD890438B9A.jpg[/IMG]
- custom fabbed in with no seams or inner opening side screws visible.
[IMG]local://upfiles/24316/09D788A6E99D4957BC7E4817A527FD13.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]local://upfiles/24316/B8B067D9FBC94187BE620BD890438B9A.jpg[/IMG]
09-03-2006, 08:52 PM
#4
4th Gear Member
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: LI, NY
Posts: 1,065
RE: Pics wanted, please..
This is a CDC Classic spoiler painted body color and with the stock lower grille painted as well. The CDC classic chin spoiler is just about the easies mod ever. To install it, remove the two screw on the lowe inside front of the wheel well, install the spoiler, and replace the screws. It rakes all of 2 minutes.
I am also including a picture of it painted black. You can order them that way and just pop it on.
[IMG]local://upfiles/15215/C59B2F8FC5EE430E9ED44A07D722EC0B.jpg[/IMG]
I am also including a picture of it painted black. You can order them that way and just pop it on.
[IMG]local://upfiles/15215/C59B2F8FC5EE430E9ED44A07D722EC0B.jpg[/IMG]
09-03-2006, 09:17 PM
#5
5th Gear Member
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location:
Posts: 2,227
RE: Pics wanted, please..
Yup, there is nothing easier, better looking and might I add "practical" especially for the $$ than the CDC Classic. What is agressive about the Agressive is not anything like ground clearance (I have 7" to pavement), it's the disruption and install process. I would probably only recommend the Agressive over the Classic if you are going with the seamless install of the Agressive (which CDC doesn't talk about) and that is really for folks who are fanatical about such little things as a seam. If my daughter drove up in a new GT today and said she wanted a CS, I would point her to the Classic and not even mention the Agressive. If you hit something, you want the Classic; my CS is "part" of the front bumper now. I like to live dangerously though (lol). Odiaz is a wiser man than I. :-)
BTW: Code3GT just so you appreciate this option with the Classic. One reason Odiaz's setup is so nice looking is that he has painted the lower grille red except for the side mesh sections (looks like some serious masking to do this). This is quite unique, can't say I've seen it before (could check CDC customer car site). It looks great and he hasn't disturbed the front fascia any. You really can't skip the lower grill and think you're gonna dremmel out the areas behind it; I took a good look at this and the result will be BAD!!! ...don't go there. FYI
BTW: Code3GT just so you appreciate this option with the Classic. One reason Odiaz's setup is so nice looking is that he has painted the lower grille red except for the side mesh sections (looks like some serious masking to do this). This is quite unique, can't say I've seen it before (could check CDC customer car site). It looks great and he hasn't disturbed the front fascia any. You really can't skip the lower grill and think you're gonna dremmel out the areas behind it; I took a good look at this and the result will be BAD!!! ...don't go there. FYI
09-03-2006, 09:33 PM
#7
5th Gear Member
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Florida
Posts: 3,881
RE: Pics wanted, please..
Yeah I had it put on about 2 weeks ago, and they had the warping problem from baking it. So I have been searching trying to figure out how to do that bracing like you did. Also, they didnt grind down the 2 side screws, so theyre kind of visable from the ground, and Im really **** about that kind of stuff so Im wonderin what you did to eliminate those. Thanks
[IMG]local://upfiles/37638/6DB0C9328226440D9CEB4984583FE397.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]local://upfiles/37638/975F08DBDE3141C9865F4476E1FC204C.jpg[/IMG]
Not sure if you can see it, but in the top picture, on the right side (left side of car) there is a slight wave on the top of the spoiler
[IMG]local://upfiles/37638/6DB0C9328226440D9CEB4984583FE397.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]local://upfiles/37638/975F08DBDE3141C9865F4476E1FC204C.jpg[/IMG]
Not sure if you can see it, but in the top picture, on the right side (left side of car) there is a slight wave on the top of the spoiler
09-03-2006, 10:43 PM
#9
5th Gear Member
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location:
Posts: 2,227
RE: Pics wanted, please..
Don't fret I have the solution for ya on the warping. Yeah I see it in the pic, will likely get worse as mine did. I thought we talked about this and they weren't gonna bake it? Anyway what's done is done, just if they baked it and weren't supposed to, that makes a difference.
1) Side screws. They are stainless and on your silver do you they really stand out that much? Did they paint over them? Should have just gone w/o and filled hole, I didn't see that the do anything especially if the spoiler is bonded to the fascia with adhesive. I did use 3/8" lag from behind, ground off just below surface, filled, etc. before paint. If they painted them. I'd carefully remove them, take paint off (with paint remover, don't sand or buff them) and put them back. "Painted" screw heads do bother me but stainless on silver would be ok. (and I am whacko about this stuff I know)
2) Warping. CDC has some suggestions to correct this (although they said they never heard of it but warned about baking), but all I remember was I didn't like their suggestions. Anyway, this is fool proof, but it is a sort of a lot of work, less if you don't remove the front bumper but I say wait until you have the time to do it right (once and for all) and do remove the front bumper. (If removing painted side screws to remove paint do this at the same time). Anyway the solution is in 2" thick dense styrofoam. Unfortunately like me you will probably have to buy a 2' x 8' piece at Home Depot for about $13. (it was pink) But if you mess up the first piece you can carve another; yeah that's right "carve". This is why it is important that you have the bumper off to "carve and test fit", "carve and test fit", "carve and test fit", "carve and test fit"; It's not that bad really. You'll find a kitchen knife that works best for you. Essentially you are carving a piece that has a back edge that is 2" thick and a flat area top and bottom that is undisturbed; the top area that is undisturbed may only be a little more than an inch and a half or so in the middle and less towards the ends. ...leave about 3/8 extra sticking out, you will cut that away later after it all dries and the bumper is back on the car. Once you have a decently carved piece (it doesn't have to be perfect, you are just trying to get as much contact area for the adhesive as you can). mark the back so you know which way it goes. Do not install that piece yet as you need the bumper on the car to use the metal upper support member to push down until the adhesive dries (overnight).
Ok, so with the bumper back on. (Lower section (that has warp) should have one coat of wax, if they said don't wax yet just use detailers spray wax, let dry) mask the lower section with single thickness of masking tape. Get/cut a piece of at least 1/2" plywood. If it is not smooth on one side cover one side with white poster board cardboard. Put the plywood down along the lower section (You should find that a piece about 75% of the width of the lower section makes better contact than 100%. Then cut about 6 wood blocks (I used 1x4 scrap) position on end and they will contact the metal upper support and push down on the plywood base. It's better if they are all a bit loose, you will shim with broken wood paint stirers, carboard, whatever suits you. NOW you are ready to apply the adhesive (Liquid Nails HEAVY DUTY) it must be HEAVY DUTY, the std product is no good for this. Heavy Duty has at least 15-20 mins working time; regular has 5 seconds. Spread the adhesive over the carved support piece (Most importantly on the uncarved flat surface that is 2" thick) Work pretty quickly doing this. Now simply press this piece into place in the orientation that you had marked. Now lay the plywood down and position the 6 upright wood supports in place. As you do this one that was snug may loosen; keep shiming/adjusting them until all are snug (snug meaning solid downward pressure but not "killer tight")
From underneath if you see some spacing of consequence here and there, fill that with the Liquid Nails as well.
Check everything good, this is what you will end up with. Shouldn't have any problem getting a 100% flat surface and you won't have any warping later.
After at least 24 hours, trim away the excess 3/8" I mentioned and excess adhesive that oozed out. (If you have to pull plywood forward some to do this, reposition it; it's just safer to remove the excess with the spoiler in "support mode")
Then remove the uprights, plywood and carefully pull back masking (waxing I mentioned will help). If it's cool or damp I would wait 48 hours.
BTW if they went seamless, did they adhesive all the seams? If not, do that the day before you reinstall the bumper in the above.
Hope this helps, any followup questions let me know. I put a lot of detail here which may make the job sound a lot tougher than it was. Really not that bad and the result is permenant and you will love the perfectly flat (and supported) look. They should have provided a formed piece to put in there but what can you tell them now?
...Jim
1) Side screws. They are stainless and on your silver do you they really stand out that much? Did they paint over them? Should have just gone w/o and filled hole, I didn't see that the do anything especially if the spoiler is bonded to the fascia with adhesive. I did use 3/8" lag from behind, ground off just below surface, filled, etc. before paint. If they painted them. I'd carefully remove them, take paint off (with paint remover, don't sand or buff them) and put them back. "Painted" screw heads do bother me but stainless on silver would be ok. (and I am whacko about this stuff I know)
2) Warping. CDC has some suggestions to correct this (although they said they never heard of it but warned about baking), but all I remember was I didn't like their suggestions. Anyway, this is fool proof, but it is a sort of a lot of work, less if you don't remove the front bumper but I say wait until you have the time to do it right (once and for all) and do remove the front bumper. (If removing painted side screws to remove paint do this at the same time). Anyway the solution is in 2" thick dense styrofoam. Unfortunately like me you will probably have to buy a 2' x 8' piece at Home Depot for about $13. (it was pink) But if you mess up the first piece you can carve another; yeah that's right "carve". This is why it is important that you have the bumper off to "carve and test fit", "carve and test fit", "carve and test fit", "carve and test fit"; It's not that bad really. You'll find a kitchen knife that works best for you. Essentially you are carving a piece that has a back edge that is 2" thick and a flat area top and bottom that is undisturbed; the top area that is undisturbed may only be a little more than an inch and a half or so in the middle and less towards the ends. ...leave about 3/8 extra sticking out, you will cut that away later after it all dries and the bumper is back on the car. Once you have a decently carved piece (it doesn't have to be perfect, you are just trying to get as much contact area for the adhesive as you can). mark the back so you know which way it goes. Do not install that piece yet as you need the bumper on the car to use the metal upper support member to push down until the adhesive dries (overnight).
Ok, so with the bumper back on. (Lower section (that has warp) should have one coat of wax, if they said don't wax yet just use detailers spray wax, let dry) mask the lower section with single thickness of masking tape. Get/cut a piece of at least 1/2" plywood. If it is not smooth on one side cover one side with white poster board cardboard. Put the plywood down along the lower section (You should find that a piece about 75% of the width of the lower section makes better contact than 100%. Then cut about 6 wood blocks (I used 1x4 scrap) position on end and they will contact the metal upper support and push down on the plywood base. It's better if they are all a bit loose, you will shim with broken wood paint stirers, carboard, whatever suits you. NOW you are ready to apply the adhesive (Liquid Nails HEAVY DUTY) it must be HEAVY DUTY, the std product is no good for this. Heavy Duty has at least 15-20 mins working time; regular has 5 seconds. Spread the adhesive over the carved support piece (Most importantly on the uncarved flat surface that is 2" thick) Work pretty quickly doing this. Now simply press this piece into place in the orientation that you had marked. Now lay the plywood down and position the 6 upright wood supports in place. As you do this one that was snug may loosen; keep shiming/adjusting them until all are snug (snug meaning solid downward pressure but not "killer tight")
From underneath if you see some spacing of consequence here and there, fill that with the Liquid Nails as well.
Check everything good, this is what you will end up with. Shouldn't have any problem getting a 100% flat surface and you won't have any warping later.
After at least 24 hours, trim away the excess 3/8" I mentioned and excess adhesive that oozed out. (If you have to pull plywood forward some to do this, reposition it; it's just safer to remove the excess with the spoiler in "support mode")
Then remove the uprights, plywood and carefully pull back masking (waxing I mentioned will help). If it's cool or damp I would wait 48 hours.
BTW if they went seamless, did they adhesive all the seams? If not, do that the day before you reinstall the bumper in the above.
Hope this helps, any followup questions let me know. I put a lot of detail here which may make the job sound a lot tougher than it was. Really not that bad and the result is permenant and you will love the perfectly flat (and supported) look. They should have provided a formed piece to put in there but what can you tell them now?
...Jim
