Mirror covers
#1
Mirror covers
#2
RE: Mirror covers
You'll still have the grainy black plastic on the triangular mounting section. If you see the folks who have theirs painted in silver, red, llime you may realize that even with black, painting is the way to go for a complete and OE looking result. (If you can sand, you can prep them and cost for base & clearcoat won't be that bad.)
It's a bit hard to tell in the pic that mine are done, being it's a black car; and actually people never notice them but they would if they weren't done and they were then screaming "cheap looking plastic".
I can tell you tips on how to remove and sand if you need to know.
[IMG]local://upfiles/24316/D976EE2735D14E7D92C3481CADAFAFB9.jpg[/IMG]
It's a bit hard to tell in the pic that mine are done, being it's a black car; and actually people never notice them but they would if they weren't done and they were then screaming "cheap looking plastic".
I can tell you tips on how to remove and sand if you need to know.
[IMG]local://upfiles/24316/D976EE2735D14E7D92C3481CADAFAFB9.jpg[/IMG]
#4
RE: Mirror covers
I found this for the mirrors. I think it gives like little more cleaner look.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/2005-...2777QQtcZphoto
[IMG]local://upfiles/44864/39D72135D5BB475AA3C1F19B9DE4F465.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]local://upfiles/44864/6C447D52FF4B4298AB924622B438F51B.jpg[/IMG]
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/2005-...2777QQtcZphoto
[IMG]local://upfiles/44864/39D72135D5BB475AA3C1F19B9DE4F465.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]local://upfiles/44864/6C447D52FF4B4298AB924622B438F51B.jpg[/IMG]
#5
RE: Mirror covers
I forwarded prior thread info I had written, to you. In case you don't get it:
Don't think you need an extra set of mirrors; once yours are prepped you can put them back on in 10 mins and use them until the day the shop needs them. Just bring them to the shop, no need to leave the car; you can drive w/o mirrors for a couple days if you need to, right?
Interior plastic covers come off pretty easily. Make sure you put a cloth down in the door gap below the mirrors; the 3 nuts come off the bolts no problem but it would take nothing to drop one down in your door. Now you're laying awake nights.
Mask off the glass; don't want to scratch it. Mask the back with printer paper and masking tape; put as little tape in contact with soft rubber backing foam as possible. (It will ruin it upon removal)
Sanding: Start with 60, then 80, then 100, then 150 all dry. Just buy a variety pack. Then 220, then 320 wet. Make sure you sand in the narrow area around the glass; the mirror will push in as you go around; this area is already smooth so it only needs the 220, 320 wet treatment. (A little dish detergent in the water when you wet sand)
Check thoroughly in bright light for any missed areas; they are your responsiblity.
Dry, clean thoroughly, isoprphyl alcohol works well.
Adhesion Promoter: Bulldog; they make an aerosol; get this at an autobody supply. Use black if you have a dark color car; grey if light. Two medium wet coats, 15 mins apart (you can follow the can directions as well) If you get a run don't worry; it will sand out. Next day wetsand with 400; (220 on any run(s) first); put them back on your car until shop is ready.
They are ready for the shop to do prime, base and clear. The closer you have them ready to the date you bring them to the shop the better; the adhesion promoter will still be a bit green. (not yet fully cured)
Honestly the average person can do this and will have probably more patience than a guy at the shop; I really wonder if even a quality shop can afford to be this careful/thorough on a small and rather unusual job for them. Good luck, let me know if you need any additional info. ...Jim
Don't think you need an extra set of mirrors; once yours are prepped you can put them back on in 10 mins and use them until the day the shop needs them. Just bring them to the shop, no need to leave the car; you can drive w/o mirrors for a couple days if you need to, right?
Interior plastic covers come off pretty easily. Make sure you put a cloth down in the door gap below the mirrors; the 3 nuts come off the bolts no problem but it would take nothing to drop one down in your door. Now you're laying awake nights.
Mask off the glass; don't want to scratch it. Mask the back with printer paper and masking tape; put as little tape in contact with soft rubber backing foam as possible. (It will ruin it upon removal)
Sanding: Start with 60, then 80, then 100, then 150 all dry. Just buy a variety pack. Then 220, then 320 wet. Make sure you sand in the narrow area around the glass; the mirror will push in as you go around; this area is already smooth so it only needs the 220, 320 wet treatment. (A little dish detergent in the water when you wet sand)
Check thoroughly in bright light for any missed areas; they are your responsiblity.
Dry, clean thoroughly, isoprphyl alcohol works well.
Adhesion Promoter: Bulldog; they make an aerosol; get this at an autobody supply. Use black if you have a dark color car; grey if light. Two medium wet coats, 15 mins apart (you can follow the can directions as well) If you get a run don't worry; it will sand out. Next day wetsand with 400; (220 on any run(s) first); put them back on your car until shop is ready.
They are ready for the shop to do prime, base and clear. The closer you have them ready to the date you bring them to the shop the better; the adhesion promoter will still be a bit green. (not yet fully cured)
Honestly the average person can do this and will have probably more patience than a guy at the shop; I really wonder if even a quality shop can afford to be this careful/thorough on a small and rather unusual job for them. Good luck, let me know if you need any additional info. ...Jim
#6
RE: Mirror covers
Yes, but from inside the car and walking up from the back of the car you are looking at the OE black and the added seam of the cover. I just can't see putting the money into a mediocre solution. JMO.
#7
RE: Mirror covers
Hey Fairlane, I was going to get my mirrors done at my local body shop where I get all my work done. For some reason they told me that it wouldn't be a good idea to paint them because it would chip easily??? Why would it do that? Though they did say the material that it was made outta would effect it, would it?
Thanks, Justin
Thanks, Justin
#8
RE: Mirror covers
Sounds like they don't want to prep your mirrors and are trying to discourage you. As long as you follow fairlane292's advice, any paint shop would be happy(when you make their job easier) to paint them....they would have to put additives in the paint(as they do for the flexible parts on any car, i.e. bumpers, rocker panels, etc.) so that they won't chip.
#9
RE: Mirror covers
Exactly. 99% of all cars now have color keyed mirrors ( on plastic type material); Heck even my 88 Honda Accord had white mirrors on the white car, as does my 00 Mits Galant. There will be less chipping than your bumper as they are higher and are less apt to get hit by sand, debris, etc. (bugs yes, but bugs don't chip)
Shops don't want to sand/prep the mirrors; just as well as you can be more fussy/picky and get a perfectly smooth surface for the paint shop to work with. Plus do you want to pay for 5 hours of sanding when you can do it? Do it during an NFL game or some other tv program, no big deal.
Shops don't want to sand/prep the mirrors; just as well as you can be more fussy/picky and get a perfectly smooth surface for the paint shop to work with. Plus do you want to pay for 5 hours of sanding when you can do it? Do it during an NFL game or some other tv program, no big deal.
#10
RE: Mirror covers
I like them because they remind me of the concept's version of the mirrors:
Yeah painting everything would be nicer, but there's still a little clunkiness about the OEM mirrors that bugs me. These being more aerodynamic, etc.
Yeah painting everything would be nicer, but there's still a little clunkiness about the OEM mirrors that bugs me. These being more aerodynamic, etc.
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