I've just finished adding my Tokico-D shocks/struts and Eibach Pro-Sport Springs to my 2007 mustang. I'm getting ready to take it to the alignment shop and I know I need to install these Camber Adjustment Bolts. My question is where do they go. The instrustiong that came with the bolts say put in the upper strut spindle bolt, I've seen a document from FORD where they put for putting them in the bottom hole and also grinding out the hole to make it bigger. The alignment shop is going to charge me $110 to put the bolts in and it doens't seem that difficult to do. Does anyone have the list of steps and know what hole in the strut spindle these go into?

[IMG]local://upfiles/44412/80ADC4DADF04418AB6C80415E9671943.jpg[/IMG]

 

I have the eibach bolts and replaced the top spindle bolt with them. I set them all the way out before torque both bolts down and my alignment shop said the camber was spot on and charged me $35. My toe was off on the drivers side which is the only reason I had it aligned, I could tell by looking at it.

The only thing I wasn't sure about was the washer that came with the bolts, it has a nipple on one side with little teeth around the washer. I wasn't sure which way it was supposed to go, but common since kicked in and I realized the nipple goes in the gap on the spindle. Be sure to loosen the bottom spindle bolt to adjust the camber.


If you ask nicely i might pull my wheel and take a pic.

 

I'd be very appreciative if you wouldn't mind taking a picture...I think I understand but want to be 100%. So you didn't have to grind out the hole to make it slotted correct?

 

No I didn't make the hole in the strut larger, all I did was replace the stock bolt. The nipple on the washer fit in the gap left in the strut hole due to the smaller diameter bolts.




The bolt is smaller in diameter than the stock bolts except in the center where it has an offset to move the top of the spindle in or out depending on which way you turn the bolt. You could make the strut hole slotted, but that would make exact alignment more difficult with these bolts, not to mention if you don't really torque it down it might move on big bumps, which means your camber would change.

 

Here's a pic taken looking at the head of the bolt from the front of the car. You can see the mark left by the stock bolt, that's how much it moves the spindle outward, which moves the top of the tire outward correcting the negative camber.

 

Thanks much! That's exactly what I needed. Those pictures are perfect. I'm taking off work now to go home put those bolts in. Saving $110!!!!

 

I'm in the same situation, so where exactly do you put the two camber bolts and how do you know when it is aligned correctly? I am getting new rims/tires put on and wanted to get these on, I also have to get an alignment after my new rims/tires are on. Let me know please!

Thank you for posting those pictures and the spindle bolt is replaced completely by that and you just do what i'm not sure!

 

Remember to loosen the lower bolt and turn the upper bolt so the top of the spindle moves as far outward as possible. Don't forget to retorque each bolt. I believe the eibach instructions said 77 ft.lbs for their bolts so i just used that for the lowers as well. They should charge you the standard alignment fee, there is no more to it than any other car. Tell them you installed adj. bolts in the upper spindle mount.

 

there are two bolts that hold the spindle to the strut. My first picture is of the upper bolt. The bolt in my picture is the replacement eibach adjustable bolt and their funky washer. Just pull your front tires and remove the upper strut bolt (it's probably a good idea to support the lower control arm with a jack or place a jack stand under the control arm), replace with the eibach bolt, loosen the lower spindle mounting bolt so the spindle can pivot outward. Now use a wrench to turn the eibach replacement bolt and you'll see the top of the spindle move in and out as you turn the bolt. I just set mine so it was as far out as possible and took it to the alignment shop(about a week later). Torque the bolts to 77 ft.lbs. You can buy a cheap needle type torque wrench at discount autoparts for under $20 if you don't have one. These bolts are easy to snap if you over torque them so don't! i broke a similar bolt on my ford ranger.

 

Just a little warning, do not loosen the lower bolt before replacing the upper bolt. With the lower bolt loose and the upper bolt removed the top of the spindle could move outward from the pressure of the spring. It won't kill you, but it would be bad for your balljoints, brake lines, etc. I'd keep some inward pressure on the body of the strut just above the spindle bolt just incase when you have the upper bolt out.

By the way that's how I got my springs out without a compressor. Rotating the spindle outward give you just enough extra room to remove the spring without it popping out and killing you. It helped that I had my wife there to pull the lower spindle bolt out while I pushed up on the strut/spring assembly. Plus she's usefull for holding the spindle while I replace the springs.