2k05gt

I know that Oil is not as important as the filter you use, but I want the best for my baby so PRICE does NOT Matter.

So Whats the Best Oil for My Car..
The type specified by the vehicle manufacturer in your owner’s manual. For most passenger car and light truck gasoline engines today, it’s any oil that meets the American Petroleum Institutes "SH" rating.

As for the viscosity of oil to use, most new engines today require a multiviscosity 5W-30 oil for all-round driving. The lighter 5W-30 oils contain friction reducing additives that help improve fuel economy, and also allow the oil to quickly reach critical upper valvetrain components when a cold engine is first started. Most engine wear occurs immediately after a cold start, so it’s important to have oil that is thin enough to circulate easily -- especially at cold temperatures.

For older engines and ones that are driven at sustained highways speeds during hot weather, 10W-30 or 10W-40 is a good choice. Heavier multiviscosity oils such as 20W-40 are for high rpm, high-load applications primarily and are not recommended for cold weather driving.

Straight weight 30W and 40W oils aren’t very popular anymore, but some diehards insist on using them. They say the thicker oil holds up better under high temperature (which it does), increases oil pressure and reduces oil consumption in high mileage engines. But straight 30W and 40W oils are too thick for cold weather and may make an engine hard to start. They may also be too thick to provide adequate start-up lubrication to critical upper valvetrain components during cold weather. So switching to a straight 20W oil would be necessary for cold weather driving. Straight 10W oil can also improve cold starting, but is very thin and should only be used in sub-zero climates. A multiviscosity 10W-30 or 10W-40 will provide the same cold starting benefits of a 10W oil and the high temperature protection of a 30W or 40W oil.

For the ultimate in high temperature protection, durability and all-round performance, synthetic oils are the way to go. Unfortunately, most synthetic oils cost up to three times as much as ordinary petroleum-based oils. They cost more because synthetics are manmade rather than refined from petroleum. But this improves their performance in virtually every aspect:

Superior temperature resistance. Synthetics can safely handle higher operating temperatures without oxidizing (burning) or breaking down. The upper limit for most mineral based oils is about 250 to 300 degrees F. Synthetics can take up to 450 degrees F. or higher. This makes synthetics well-suited for turbo applications as well as high rpm and high output engine applications.
Better low temperature performance. Synthetics flow freely at subzero temperatures, pouring easily at -40 or -50 degrees F. where ordinary oils turn to molasses. This makes for easier cold starts and provides faster upper valvetrain lubrication during the first critical moments when most engine wear occurs.
Better engine performance. Synthetics tend to be more slippery than their petroleum-based counterparts, which improves fuel economy, cuts frictional horsepower losses and helps the engine run cooler. The difference isn’t great, but it can make a noticeable difference.
Longer oil change intervals. Because synthetics resist oxidation and viscosity breakdown better than ordinary motor oils, some suppliers say oil change intervals can be safely extended -- in some cases stretched to as much as 25,000 miles. Such claims are justified by the fact that synthetics don’t break down or sludge up as fast as ordinary mineral-based oils do in use.

Synthetics are available in the same grades as ordinary motor oils (5W-30, 5W-20 and 10W-30) as well as "extended" grades such as 15W-50 and even 5W-50.

There are also lower-cost synthetic "blends" that combine synthetic and petroleum-based oils in the same container. But you can do your own blend to save money by simply substituting a quart or two of synthetic oil for conventional oil when you change oil. Synthetics are compatible with conventional motor oils.

Who should use a synthetic oil? The premium-priced oil is best for:

Turbocharged or supercharged engines
Performance or high output engines
Vehicles used for towing (especially during hot weather)
Vehicles that are operated in extremely cold or hot climates
Anyone who wants the ultimate in lubrication and protection

http://www.mobil1.com/USA-English/Mo...ics/Myths.aspx
http://www.go-synthetic.com/amsoil_t...l_testing.html
http://www.atis.net/oil_faq.html

06GT4RAD

This is a very subjective question. Mobil 1, Redline and RP are probably the top 3 but your best bang for your buck is Mobil 1. I run it in all my vehicles.

Redline and RP cost to much at almost 3 more per quart.

Richard

zcat

Mobile 1 in all my machines including a very highperformance (300 + RWHP) TurboCharged - Nitrous injected ZX12R Kawasaki streetbike that has thousands of miles on it riding in the extreme heat of middle Tennessee summers. Plus I dog it pretty hard and have had no issues - I believe in this stuff - its also in the WhippleCharged 06 Roush now and I expect similar results. Really all the premium Syns are probably good to go, but I know Mobile 1 is good stuff from personal experiance!

zcat

Oh, I don't exactly agree with the statement that oil isn't as important as the filter. Make no mistake that the filter is important and you should use high quality there. But try running two motors - one without a filter and the other without oil and see which one last the longest -

2k05gt

I posted the list because all of these Manufactures claim to be the Best,
Royal Purple Claims to increase HP by 3% proved on Speed TV, Dyno Test and Amsoil Claims that oil changes at 10K. so I am trying to weed through all the Marketing crap and get the best.

Rt1Rebel

I'm a fan of Mobil1 and have used the 10-30 in all my vehicles, however, the only brand I could easily find in the recommended 5-20 for my new stang was the Castrol. So that's what I used for the 1st change. I'm open for improvement, but availability is more an issue than price.

Rupp

Why Synthetic at all if you change it every 3000 miles?

Rt1Rebel

To put it simply, Rupp, synthetic is superior from mile #1. There is probably a pinned thread up top about this. The frequency of the change is not the factor, most of us change our synthetic after 3,000 also.

2k05gt

synthetic oils are superior to conventional oils, that with synthetic oil cars run cleaner and more efficiently for longer.

Conventional Base Oils
• Refined from Crude Oil
• Mixture of compounds
• Include compounds poorly suited for lubrication
• Included compounds create friction and engine wear

Chemically Derived Synthetic Base Oils
• Synthetic polymers
• Tailor made from controlled building units
• Specifically designed to suit the lubrication application
• Improved performance, less friction and engine wear

Unlike base oils derived from crude oil, synthetic base oils can be designed specifically (i.e. "tailor made") to give optimum performance in synergy with the additive compounds with which they are formulated to produce the final motor oil.

Motor oils perform differently under extremes. Under extreme driving conditions synthetic oils offer clearly superior motor oil protection and performance than that provided by mineral oil.

Severe conditions include;
• Stop-and-go driving
• Short trips
• High temperature conditions (especially modern turbo engines)
• Cold start-ups
• Competition

Severe driving conditions aren’t confined to the racetrack or rally stage. Day-to-day driving conditions with stop/start traffic, short trips and cold starts can also be severe conditions that push motor oils to their limits.

05gtdriver

Really, RP is only a $1.50 more around here(at Pep Boys), about $6.99 vs $5.49 or so......but Mobil 1 has been around for a long time(over 25 years I think), so it's a proven product. Although I was raised on Castrol products and I use to swear by GTX in all my cars since the early eighties, but since I started buying new cars/trucks in the early 90's, I only use the factory recommended stuff(my Nissan trucks used Penzoil, and Ford uses Motorcraft). I had a car back in the late 80's(a '74 German Ford Capri with a 2.8L V-6)
that had over 150K miles on it when I bought it and ran it until the timing gear sheared on it(upper timing gear had outer nylon teeth pressed onto an iron inner part) at around 220K miles and I asked the original owner(a very hot blonde!) what oil she used(she was the original owner as well), she said Castrol GTX(which what I had used as well). The reason I asked was because after pulling the engine apart, I thought a full rebuild was gonna be necessary, nope, just a new steel timing gear set and some new valves(a couple got bent) and a 3 angle valve job, with new guides and seals(shimmied the springs, within specs). The main bearing & rod bearing were like new! After 220K miles! Rings were fine as well. All due to proper and frequent oil/filter changes and tune-ups(remember some cars had points ignitions back then!). Car ran like brand new after the mini-overhaul and I sold it to a friend in the early 90's, and last I heard it's still on it's original motor. Castrol oil might find it's way into my GT(Syntec, that is). Here's an opinion I want to ask. When I bought my GT(Aug/06) the dealership threw in free oil/filter changes for 3 years. Since the oil change intervals are every 5,000 miles, do you guys think it would be fine to change my own oil(Syntec) midway through the intervals(2,500 mark) then have the dealer do the 5,000 change? In other words 2 oil changes every 5000 miles overall(I put full synthetic, while the dealer puts in a blend). Would I just be wasting money, or does this sound like a good idea? Comments please!