CrazyAl-- Any input on the new BMR A-Arms? I have seem them and they look awesome, but what benefits would they have for $400? Stiffer? Lighter? Longer lasting? Cosmetic?

Thanks.

 

There is a little confusion here. The CHE torque limiters are a VERY easy 20 min install. The reason people broke bolts was a torque value listed in the install instructions being to high. This has been fixed and is no longer an issue. It was a large mistake by CHE but it has nothing to do with the current install. Adjusting the TLs is very easy also. All you have to do is run them down to the shortest setting then rotate the center while holding the ends until the bolt slides in... a moderately trained monkey could do it. The TLs are just a simple turnbuckle, nothing special. The main reason I would recommend these is the ease of install. They are MUCH simpler than motor mounts.

Also, IMO these bolts are more than adequate to take the load of the motor (anywhere near stock) torqueing over. Of course I did not take the time to run the models, but I am very confident they will have no trouble holding. The main thing to point out is they bolt to the block, not just the bell housing (and engage about 1" of thread in the block).

 

I haven't run the BMR A-arms personally, but I am planning on doing so.

The way I see it there are two main advantages:

First, is weight savings. Front-end weight is always nice to reduce for drag applications so you can help transfer weight to the rear on launch.

Second, they have firmer bushings than the OEM A-Arms. This is comporable to replacing your LCAs: by replacing the OEM rubber bushings and hydra-mounts with poly, you can improve suspension action. In the front this won't affect acceleration traction of course, but it would improve road feel and handling in the curves.

 

Have you checked the poly bushing themselves? What did you use to lube them? Did you use a silicone grease or a regular grease? If you used a petroleum based grease it may have destroyed the bushings and that may be your noise.

Richard

 

CHE all the way. I have it.

 

We used the small container of grease that comes with the Adj. Poly to Poly LCA's.
What I did do in an effort to help eliminate the knock sound was to install a Steeda Poly to Poly Adj. UCA. Man, that thing looks like it belongs on a bull dozer. One heavy duty piece of work.
The knock sound reappeared in a couple of days. This has really got us baffeled. The only thing that it might be is the ends of the LCA.

Just dont know. So like I said earlier the only other option is to remove the LCA's and install some new ones. Thats next Saturday.

Thanks for your input.

 

I also recommend Lethal