CrazyAl

Nope, this is much less expensive than you think. Here are some prices form LMP performance.

Roush, Steeda Ultralite, or Eibach Pro-Kit springs: $200
camber bolts $30
BMR or Spohn adjustable LCAs $220
BMR or Steeda rear sway bar kit $200
BMR or Spohn adjustable panhard bar $130
BMR panhard bar support. $100
Toicko D-spec shocks $540


Total: about $1400...and that includes FREE SHIPPING. I'm sure you could do better if you shopped around.

abs

OK so am new to suspension stuff.
I have only the eibach pro kit without any other mentioned part in CrazyAl post.
would that do any harm to my pony?

Sprzout

Al,

Can I get away with doing that in stages? i.e. Do the shocks/springs first, then when I have more money come back and do the swaybar, and then do the LCAs later on? Or is this something that's going to cause me to have to do an alignment after every change, which will increase my costs even more? I know that with my Saturn, every time I changed out the springs or the shocks, the car needed an alignment.While not overly expensive, it's still $40-$50 a shot, and that's money that could be going towards another suspension part...

howarmat

CrazyAl prices are dead on. I have it calculated in my excel sheet right at that.

Al, can you get the BMR LCAs for 220 and if you can where. the cheapest I have found is 250.

Thanks.

ghoztofcasper

CrazyAl, I too was looking into some of these parts, BUT did not want to do them all at once (like Sprzout wants to do). So I also ask the question whether it could be done in stages.

Also, I am guessing this is something like the setup you have, if so, what are some of the improvements to the ride you see and feel?

CrazyAl

You can do some of the things in stages, but there are two things to think about:

First, it is cheaper and easierlabor-wise to do it in as few steps as possible. A lot of these parts duplicate work you would otherwise be doing. For example, if you're changing out your springs, then doing the shocks too is basically "Free". Or, if you have your rear end apart for a new panhard bar, adding the panhard brace is a 10-min job. If you are doing the brace on it's own, then you're looking at more like an hour and a half.

Anyway, when you lower the car (install springs) then doing the camber bolts is a MUST for safety's sake, and for the durability of your front tires. If you are running lowering springs without camber bolts & an alignment, then that is dangerous AND it will screw up your front tires in short order. Get that fixed ASAP. I would seriously consider the panhard bar and the LCAs as well.

The LCAs, Panhard bar, and new shocks all go along with lowering. You technically don't have to do them at the same time, but it is a good idea to do so. There is more reading in this thread: https://mustangforums.com/m_2678104/tm.htm


howarmat, I am not sure about the LCA prices. I just typed in the prices I remembered from the last time I shopped around. I could well have made a mistake!


I have these parts and more on my car. (Onlyreal difference is that I only used new springs in the rear. My front springs are stock.) The improvement is dramatic to say the least. You will have greatly enhanced traction, and much better grip in the corners. The stock oversteer is also gone. My car doesn't break traction (even if I floor it) unless I deliberatley try to do so.

Here is my suspension setup right now:

Roush coil springs (Rear only)
BMR combo street LCAs
BMR spherical bearing UCA
BMR UCA mount
BMR LCA brackets (welded in)
Spohn combo panhard bar
Spohn poly diff bushing
BMR boxed subframe connectors (welded in)
Steeda rear sway bar with billet endlinks
BMR panhard brace
D-spec shocks
Steeda "G-trac brace" (K-member brace)

I will be installing the BMR K-member and front A-arms in the near future. Ordinarily I wouldn't go this far on a street car, but since I plan on making 600+ at the wheels by the end of the year, I am laying a solid foundation with the subframe connectors, UCA & mount, and so on. Obviously you have to draw the line somewhere. The list I posted earlier is what I suggest for street performance or occaisional racing. If you want to kick it up a notch, throw in the LCA relocation brackets. There's not much of a need to go beyond that unless you have lots of extra cash or if you want to press for a lot of HP.

howarmat

Thank you sir for your advice as usual!

mygt500

I will be too this spring! Can't wait!

abs

CrazyAl, my understanding is that coilsprings are used adjustable lowering (maybe 1.5" to 2.8")
if am not wrong, how do you adjust the vehicle's hight? do you have to take anything off, adjust it and put it back?

Thanks

CrazyAl

Coil springs are what is on the car stock. Aftermarket ones are a different length and a different stiffness to lower the car. But the are not adjustable. They are a fixed height. You can get different springs that will lower your car different amounts.

You are probably thinking coil-overs which are special shocks with coaxially-mounted springs and an adjustment mechanism. Those do let you adjust your ride height up or down. However, it is not so easy as it sounds. First youadjust your ride height itself, and then you have to go and reset your pinion angle, camber, caster, toe, and all that stuff. Coil-overs are generally only used by serious road-course racers...and that is not the same as what I am recommending here.