People with Autos and aluminum driveshafts
02-24-2007, 05:21 PM
#1
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Join Date: Jan 2007
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Posts: 599
People with Autos and aluminum driveshafts
I've searched for and read quite a few posts on 1-piece driveshafts andhaveheard aboutthe problems some A/Ts have with them. I'd like some feedback from people with automatics and aluminum driveshafts. Where'd you get it? After the install, did you have vibration and if so, how did you fix it? The two I'm looking at areDenny's Driveshaft and the one from Spyder on here. Denny's driveshaft says it's for manual and auto so have they figured out the vibration issues with the autos or is it the same piece?
My current mods are:
Corsa A/Bs, Steeda UDP, and will soon be installing BMR LCAs with relocation brackets, C&L CAI with Brenspeed 93 octane tune, and BMR front swaybar delete/radiator support.
At this time, i don't plan on lowering the car anytime soon. I saw a post saying pinion angle won't have to be adjusted (at least not as much) with a car that hasn't been lowered.
My current mods are:
Corsa A/Bs, Steeda UDP, and will soon be installing BMR LCAs with relocation brackets, C&L CAI with Brenspeed 93 octane tune, and BMR front swaybar delete/radiator support.
At this time, i don't plan on lowering the car anytime soon. I saw a post saying pinion angle won't have to be adjusted (at least not as much) with a car that hasn't been lowered.
02-24-2007, 09:27 PM
#3
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Join Date: Jan 2007
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Posts: 599
RE: People with Autos and aluminum driveshafts
Ah, i'll add that one to my list for making up my mind. Did you notice any day-to-day driving differences (good or bad)?
Anyone out there have vibration problems? I'm wanting to get a driveshaft and install it around the end of this coming summer. I have some time but I like planning ahead. I also save up the money before buying parts so as not to run up $10,000 of debt on top of my car payment.
Anyone out there have vibration problems? I'm wanting to get a driveshaft and install it around the end of this coming summer. I have some time but I like planning ahead. I also save up the money before buying parts so as not to run up $10,000 of debt on top of my car payment.
02-24-2007, 10:16 PM
#5
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Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Gainesville, FL
Posts: 11,278
RE: People with Autos and aluminum driveshafts
ORIGINAL: TwltPerf
The only day to day differences are shifting into reverse or drive at a stop is more firm/direct = just a soild engagement ; no more clang / bang sound & taking off from a stop seems more "direct" = just a push on the pedal & your moving right away ; no more lag.
The only day to day differences are shifting into reverse or drive at a stop is more firm/direct = just a soild engagement ; no more clang / bang sound & taking off from a stop seems more "direct" = just a push on the pedal & your moving right away ; no more lag.
02-25-2007, 01:46 AM
#8
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Join Date: Apr 2005
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Posts: 602
RE: People with Autos and aluminum driveshafts
I have the Coastline d/s from Tillman Speed, my car is not lowered, I have no vibration, got it installed this past week, went0-100 no problems.You do feel a difference in performance, pulls harder, rev's quicker.
02-25-2007, 12:16 PM
#9
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Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Fenton, MO.
Posts: 645
RE: People with Autos and aluminum driveshafts
ORIGINAL: TheDarkPath
I've searched for and read quite a few posts on 1-piece driveshafts andhaveheard aboutthe problems some A/Ts have with them. I'd like some feedback from people with automatics and aluminum driveshafts. Where'd you get it? After the install, did you have vibration and if so, how did you fix it? The two I'm looking at areDenny's Driveshaft and the one from Spyder on here. Denny's driveshaft says it's for manual and auto so have they figured out the vibration issues with the autos or is it the same piece?
My current mods are:
Corsa A/Bs, Steeda UDP, and will soon be installing BMR LCAs with relocation brackets, C&L CAI with Brenspeed 93 octane tune, and BMR front swaybar delete/radiator support.
At this time, i don't plan on lowering the car anytime soon. I saw a post saying pinion angle won't have to be adjusted (at least not as much) with a car that hasn't been lowered.
I've searched for and read quite a few posts on 1-piece driveshafts andhaveheard aboutthe problems some A/Ts have with them. I'd like some feedback from people with automatics and aluminum driveshafts. Where'd you get it? After the install, did you have vibration and if so, how did you fix it? The two I'm looking at areDenny's Driveshaft and the one from Spyder on here. Denny's driveshaft says it's for manual and auto so have they figured out the vibration issues with the autos or is it the same piece?
My current mods are:
Corsa A/Bs, Steeda UDP, and will soon be installing BMR LCAs with relocation brackets, C&L CAI with Brenspeed 93 octane tune, and BMR front swaybar delete/radiator support.
At this time, i don't plan on lowering the car anytime soon. I saw a post saying pinion angle won't have to be adjusted (at least not as much) with a car that hasn't been lowered.
If your also going with LCA's make sure you use new bolts and nuts. The Ford LCA bolts are torque to yield, the front LCA nuts have a crush washer built into the assembly and all of the nuts are Ny-Loc. The bolts and nuts are "one time" use only. If you go with relocation brackets make sure that the bracket has two sets of holes for the mounting of the back LCA not just one. When you install these things you will want to check the pinion angle. A -2.5 (negative)is okay for the angle. What your trying to avoid is setting the angle so that when you get on it the DS and rearend go to center (inline with each other)and never go positive.
Oh, might as well replace the UCA also. Dont mix suspension components.
The first thing you will notice with the new DS is the car will not feel like your pulling an anchor. When you step on the gas...........hold on 'cause she's taking off quick.
The new DS is a good investment. The LCA, reloc brac's and UCA's will help you car launch real well.
Make sure you take the car to a shop that knows exactly what they are doing.
Oh, the PH DS weighs 21# to 23#. The stoch DS weighs approx 40#
Have fun man.
02-25-2007, 12:28 PM
#10
6th Gear Member
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Gainesville, FL
Posts: 11,278
RE: People with Autos and aluminum driveshafts
John, do not give advice about pinion angle, you know not what you speak.
So does the PH driveshaft come with new bolts to connect to the transmission yoke?
So does the PH driveshaft come with new bolts to connect to the transmission yoke?
ORIGINAL: GT John
I have the PH Alum DS with no issues. Just make sure the installer uses the bolts that come with it, use loc-tite, and torque to alum DS spec.
If your also going with LCA's make sure you use new bolts and nuts. The Ford LCA bolts are torque to yield, the front LCA nuts have a crush washer built into the assembly and all of the nuts are Ny-Loc. The bolts and nuts are "one time" use only. If you go with relocation brackets make sure that the bracket has two sets of holes for the mounting of the back LCA not just one. When you install these things you will want to check the pinion angle. A -2.5 (negative)is okay for the angle. What your trying to avoid is setting the angle so that when you get on it the DS and rearend go to center (inline with each other)and never go positive.
Oh, might as well replace the UCA also. Dont mix suspension components.
The first thing you will notice with the new DS is the car will not feel like your pulling an anchor. When you step on the gas...........hold on 'cause she's taking off quick.
The new DS is a good investment. The LCA, reloc brac's and UCA's will help you car launch real well.
Make sure you take the car to a shop that knows exactly what they are doing.
Oh, the PH DS weighs 21# to 23#. The stoch DS weighs approx 40#
Have fun man.
ORIGINAL: TheDarkPath
I've searched for and read quite a few posts on 1-piece driveshafts andhaveheard aboutthe problems some A/Ts have with them. I'd like some feedback from people with automatics and aluminum driveshafts. Where'd you get it? After the install, did you have vibration and if so, how did you fix it? The two I'm looking at areDenny's Driveshaft and the one from Spyder on here. Denny's driveshaft says it's for manual and auto so have they figured out the vibration issues with the autos or is it the same piece?
My current mods are:
Corsa A/Bs, Steeda UDP, and will soon be installing BMR LCAs with relocation brackets, C&L CAI with Brenspeed 93 octane tune, and BMR front swaybar delete/radiator support.
At this time, i don't plan on lowering the car anytime soon. I saw a post saying pinion angle won't have to be adjusted (at least not as much) with a car that hasn't been lowered.
I've searched for and read quite a few posts on 1-piece driveshafts andhaveheard aboutthe problems some A/Ts have with them. I'd like some feedback from people with automatics and aluminum driveshafts. Where'd you get it? After the install, did you have vibration and if so, how did you fix it? The two I'm looking at areDenny's Driveshaft and the one from Spyder on here. Denny's driveshaft says it's for manual and auto so have they figured out the vibration issues with the autos or is it the same piece?
My current mods are:
Corsa A/Bs, Steeda UDP, and will soon be installing BMR LCAs with relocation brackets, C&L CAI with Brenspeed 93 octane tune, and BMR front swaybar delete/radiator support.
At this time, i don't plan on lowering the car anytime soon. I saw a post saying pinion angle won't have to be adjusted (at least not as much) with a car that hasn't been lowered.
If your also going with LCA's make sure you use new bolts and nuts. The Ford LCA bolts are torque to yield, the front LCA nuts have a crush washer built into the assembly and all of the nuts are Ny-Loc. The bolts and nuts are "one time" use only. If you go with relocation brackets make sure that the bracket has two sets of holes for the mounting of the back LCA not just one. When you install these things you will want to check the pinion angle. A -2.5 (negative)is okay for the angle. What your trying to avoid is setting the angle so that when you get on it the DS and rearend go to center (inline with each other)and never go positive.
Oh, might as well replace the UCA also. Dont mix suspension components.
The first thing you will notice with the new DS is the car will not feel like your pulling an anchor. When you step on the gas...........hold on 'cause she's taking off quick.
The new DS is a good investment. The LCA, reloc brac's and UCA's will help you car launch real well.
Make sure you take the car to a shop that knows exactly what they are doing.
Oh, the PH DS weighs 21# to 23#. The stoch DS weighs approx 40#
Have fun man.