Suspension ?
Hey guys long time reader first time poster. I first want to thank ya'll for all the great information that there is to read on here. Especially Crazy Al's suspension stuff and Taco Bills write ups.
Now for the question. I have been piecing together my suspension kit for my 2007. So far i have Tokico D specs ,the Eibach pro kit and the adjustable camber bolts. I am going to order as money allows a BMR adjustable panhard brace, larger rear sway bar, adjustable LCA's with LCA relocation bracket and an BMR adjustable 3rd link. I want to know if it is going to hurt my stang driving it lowered for about 5000 miles with only the springs and struts without the other parts to correct the pinion angle. I know its really not the best idea but I am going to be honest its been killing me to look at the struts and springs every day and seeing the big gap above my tires since i have 20's on the car. In the future i plan on putting a Spyder shaft on it and i know i will need all these parts for that. Will it hurt the car?
Thanks
Now for the question. I have been piecing together my suspension kit for my 2007. So far i have Tokico D specs ,the Eibach pro kit and the adjustable camber bolts. I am going to order as money allows a BMR adjustable panhard brace, larger rear sway bar, adjustable LCA's with LCA relocation bracket and an BMR adjustable 3rd link. I want to know if it is going to hurt my stang driving it lowered for about 5000 miles with only the springs and struts without the other parts to correct the pinion angle. I know its really not the best idea but I am going to be honest its been killing me to look at the struts and springs every day and seeing the big gap above my tires since i have 20's on the car. In the future i plan on putting a Spyder shaft on it and i know i will need all these parts for that. Will it hurt the car?
Thanks
I drove mine for several months lowered and without any adjustable control arms. The only item other than springs and struts I had was an adjustable panhard rod. I did not have any issues with pinion angle. In measuring the angle before and after the lowering springs there was actually less of an angle issue after I lowered it. However I would recommend the adjustable panhard rod when you lower as the rear end will not be centered left to right after you lower the car. The adj. panhard will fix this.
I think you should do all the work at once....
IMO you dont need a adjustable UCA as long as the LCA and panhard bar are adjustable you will be fine..
I have BMR everything..and the car handles amazing...i have the BMR upper mount with and there boxed UCA..
i suggest there rear sway bar and STB eventually..and yes it does work..good luck...have fun carving up the corners..
IMO you dont need a adjustable UCA as long as the LCA and panhard bar are adjustable you will be fine..
I have BMR everything..and the car handles amazing...i have the BMR upper mount with and there boxed UCA..
i suggest there rear sway bar and STB eventually..and yes it does work..good luck...have fun carving up the corners..
If you are lowering- camber bolts/plates are a must. this is really the only thing you NEED to do, as well as an alignment. If not your tires will wear unevenly. Next should really be the LCA relocation brackets. Normall the LCAs are horizontal. When lowering it makes them angled- this is what affects the traction. Relocation brackets allow you to move the LCA's back to horizontal. At this time it would be a good idea to get an adjustable panhard as well. sometimes lowering a car throws the rear off center.I have never heard of an adjustable panhardbrace- did you mean adjustable panhard bar and a brace?The rest is just add as you want. Really though, if I am adding LCA relocation brackets you might as well do the LCAs at the same time. You don'tNEED adjustable LCAs or UCA if you are not going to change the driveshaft.The pinion angle does not need to be changed when lowering a car. I know alot of people recomend adjustable LCAs due to the ease of adjusting them, but if this is just a daily driver I would suggest an adjustable UCE. I personally have the BMR adj LCAs with 1 rod end and the noise increase is noticable. Once the driveshaft is in you just adjust the UCA once to get it set and you should not need to adjust it again- Unless you go to the track frequently- then I would get the adj LCAs.
Hope this helps
Hope this helps
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