How stop roll in front suspension while cornering?
#21
RE: How stop roll in front suspension while cornering?
Of course, that is why your front seems to sway too much. In order to avoid that, one must modify both front and rear ends at the same time with properly matched equipment...always a good recommendation.
#23
RE: How stop roll in front suspension while cornering?
· I started with the stock V6 configuration: light front, no rear bar.
· Swapped-on 17" GT takeoff Bullits w/ Pirelli P Zero Nero.
· Added "found-item" (cheap takeoff) BMR strut tower brace: resolved about 60% of the convertible's terrible cowl-shake over a test patch that made it go crazy before.
· Added GT rear bar (19mm?): Very nice, less understeer (front leaned less, got more performance from front tires).
· Swapped-in GT front bar: transformed the feel, but back to understeer.
· Swapped-in 22mm (7/8") rear bar: some joy, flat front and back, very autox-able, but still a tad too much understeer.
· Swapped-in Steeda Sport springs: should have done this first, dee-lightful feel and performance, made it look a little better, too.(Picture below)
· Swapped-in 26mm (1") H&R rear bar with billet links and special bushings: at last! It works good, practically imperceptible ride degradation, streetable as ever.
Drop from the Steeda Sport springs was just at or under one inch in the front, just at an inch-and-a-quarter in the rear. Very subtle appearance-wise, no dynamic problem on the road, World Of Difference auto-x-ing. Even with the original (17K miles) shocks/struts, transitions, including abrupt and cycling ones, are predictable and controllable.
The GT front bar is 1 3/8 inches and hollow; most aftermarket ones are same diameter but solid. The H&R rear bar is of amazing quality as reflected in its finish. I may try the H&R (adjustable) front one, just to see what effect it has, but I'm quite pleased with the current sway-set's balance.
Now I need some good shocks/struts, tires other than the original Pirellis, and a limited-slip differential, so actual comparative lap times will come down even more ...
And then maybe a CAI and tune. Heh.
· Swapped-on 17" GT takeoff Bullits w/ Pirelli P Zero Nero.
· Added "found-item" (cheap takeoff) BMR strut tower brace: resolved about 60% of the convertible's terrible cowl-shake over a test patch that made it go crazy before.
· Added GT rear bar (19mm?): Very nice, less understeer (front leaned less, got more performance from front tires).
· Swapped-in GT front bar: transformed the feel, but back to understeer.
· Swapped-in 22mm (7/8") rear bar: some joy, flat front and back, very autox-able, but still a tad too much understeer.
· Swapped-in Steeda Sport springs: should have done this first, dee-lightful feel and performance, made it look a little better, too.(Picture below)
· Swapped-in 26mm (1") H&R rear bar with billet links and special bushings: at last! It works good, practically imperceptible ride degradation, streetable as ever.
Drop from the Steeda Sport springs was just at or under one inch in the front, just at an inch-and-a-quarter in the rear. Very subtle appearance-wise, no dynamic problem on the road, World Of Difference auto-x-ing. Even with the original (17K miles) shocks/struts, transitions, including abrupt and cycling ones, are predictable and controllable.
The GT front bar is 1 3/8 inches and hollow; most aftermarket ones are same diameter but solid. The H&R rear bar is of amazing quality as reflected in its finish. I may try the H&R (adjustable) front one, just to see what effect it has, but I'm quite pleased with the current sway-set's balance.
Now I need some good shocks/struts, tires other than the original Pirellis, and a limited-slip differential, so actual comparative lap times will come down even more ...
And then maybe a CAI and tune. Heh.
#24
RE: How stop roll in front suspension while cornering?
ORIGINAL: lldsandsll
wozz nailed it. stiffer springs would be a good startto reduce body roll. i got the brace, but only cuz i got it second hand dirt cheap and had it painted to match my car, legend lime. looks great, does next to nothing.
wozz nailed it. stiffer springs would be a good startto reduce body roll. i got the brace, but only cuz i got it second hand dirt cheap and had it painted to match my car, legend lime. looks great, does next to nothing.
Talk to me in 10 to 20 years. Few on here ever had to deal with sagging shock towers from the original ponys. Gravity will NOT be denied.
#25
RE: How stop roll in front suspension while cornering?
ORIGINAL: GidyupGo
Talk to me in 10 to 20 years. Few on here ever had to deal with sagging shock towers from the original ponys. Gravity will NOT be denied.
ORIGINAL: lldsandsll
wozz nailed it. stiffer springs would be a good startto reduce body roll. i got the brace, but only cuz i got it second hand dirt cheap and had it painted to match my car, legend lime. looks great, does next to nothing.
wozz nailed it. stiffer springs would be a good startto reduce body roll. i got the brace, but only cuz i got it second hand dirt cheap and had it painted to match my car, legend lime. looks great, does next to nothing.
For less roll, struts/shocks, springs and swaybars are the way to go.
Tom
#26
RE: How stop roll in front suspension while cornering?
ORIGINAL: SlideWRX
He's referring to grip levels. The strut tower bar is to reduce cowl shake. Sagging shock towers is moreso from bumpy streets, even if one thinks they drive on smooth roads. In that case, yes a strut tower is a long term investment, but not from a grip perspective. In addition, the current mustang is a LOT stiffer than the fox body cars; it won't degrade nearly as much over the years. Personally I run the GT500 one, since it was cheap as works just as good as the others, but it isn't a performance enhancement.
For less roll, struts/shocks, springs and swaybars are the way to go.
Tom
ORIGINAL: GidyupGo
Talk to me in 10 to 20 years. Few on here ever had to deal with sagging shock towers from the original ponys. Gravity will NOT be denied.
ORIGINAL: lldsandsll
wozz nailed it. stiffer springs would be a good startto reduce body roll. i got the brace, but only cuz i got it second hand dirt cheap and had it painted to match my car, legend lime. looks great, does next to nothing.
wozz nailed it. stiffer springs would be a good startto reduce body roll. i got the brace, but only cuz i got it second hand dirt cheap and had it painted to match my car, legend lime. looks great, does next to nothing.
For less roll, struts/shocks, springs and swaybars are the way to go.
Tom
I think Ford engineers might differ from you that the brace isn't a performance item. But the jury is still out on the strut tower sag. The 69 I had actually had a shock tower break loose. I first noticed it when the tires started screaching. It was making the UCA be out of alignment. When you would turn the wheels right and left while watching the DS shock tower, it would turn with the wheel. Yikes!!! Spot weld broke loose. But the 67 I had was solid, just 1 1/2 inches too close together. Had to put a jack under the center motor mount brace and jack it up. Left it that way for 3 days and it settled back into place so I could get a shock tower brace on it.
#27
RE: How stop roll in front suspension while cornering?
my .02 >>
I have the Eibach Pro-Kit, Eibach dampers, poly bushings, & Eibach front and rear sway bars. The body roll has been reduced significantly. I took my car on the Ortega Highway (on the Bumblebee cruise) this weekend and the car feels completely different. The steering is much more responsive and the car has lost it's "floating" feeling.
Here is a pic that someone snapped of me on the cruise...
[align=left] [/align]
I have the Eibach Pro-Kit, Eibach dampers, poly bushings, & Eibach front and rear sway bars. The body roll has been reduced significantly. I took my car on the Ortega Highway (on the Bumblebee cruise) this weekend and the car feels completely different. The steering is much more responsive and the car has lost it's "floating" feeling.
Here is a pic that someone snapped of me on the cruise...
[align=left] [/align]
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