NamelessLiar

Step 1: Remove the 2 screws from the plug of your Passport 8500 x50. When you open it up be careful not to damage the front face cause you’ll need that later. (it’s just a sticker)



Step 2: Remove the circuit board and the HOT (red wire) and GROUND (green wire) connections from the plug itself. For further clarification, the HOT is the one that goes to the pointy end of the plug and the GROUND is one of the sides that creates tension to keep the plug in the socket. Cut the metal ends off of the wires because you won’t need them anymore.

Step 3: Get extra lengths of wire to extend your HOT and GROUND. I soldered a red wire from my HOT and a black wire from my GROUND and then wrapped the connections with electrical tape. You don’t need that much just 6-8 inches each should work.

Step 4: To remove LIGHT HOUSING simply grab one side and pull straight down, it’s just a friction clip and you’re not gonna break it. Repeat on opposite side. Note the plug that connects your light assembly to the rest of the car? It’s easier if you disconnect it at this point. Now look at the middle part of the housing how it forms a small box? On both side of the box are “V” slots, this is where we’re going to attach the circuit board from the plug!





Step 5: Take a small screw and put it through the original hole of the circuit board, using a small rubber washer between the circuit board and the plastic, and a metal washer and nut on the other side of the plastic. That rubber washer will help protect your electronics. HINT: take your wire and circuit board into your local hardware store and build it right there so you get it right. I spent a grand total of 45 cents on parts.



Step 6: Once you’ve got your hardware assembly done, place it into your housing and mark off where you’ll be drilling your holes. I attached my circuit board to the passenger side “V” slot. You should also notice how the cord itself can seat neatly into the opposing “V” slot to reduce some of the tension on the wires.

Step 7: Drill your holes! I’d recommend starting with a small bit and then work your way up if you’re not accustomed to the finer points of drilling. Once your holes are in put your circuitry back in and size it up. Don’t worry if it looks a tad sloppy at this point cause that sticker from the plug we saved will cover it all up, just make sure they’re STRAIGHT and not TOO big.

Step 8: Once your holes are the right size, put your electronics in and tighten down the screw. Not TOO tight cause you don’t want to break the damn board, but ya know, SNUG. Flip over the housing and place your sticker on over the MUTE button and align the rest of it. Press it on firmly and marvel at just how freakin awesome it looks!





Step 9: Now the plug that you disconnected from the car, take a good look at it and locate the black wire with the BLUE STRIPE. It is your main power and it is further identified because it “Y”s off immediately to both lights.



Step 10: Take the extension from your HOT and twist the stripped end (about 1/8th of an inch is enough to strip off) into the plug deep enough so that it makes contact with the rest of the plug. Take a small self tapping screw and screw it into the metal right beside one of the holes already there. Then take the extension from your GROUND and wrap it around the screw and tighten it down.



Step 11: At this point you should feed the telephone looking jack through the headliner and out the windshield side. You may want to pull down a bit on the headliner to help get the coil through. Pull through however much you need and leave the rest to be hidden in the light housing. Plug the LIGHT HOUSING plug back into it’s location and reattach the housing itself.



Step 12: Plug your wire into your radar detector and VOILA! You have just hardwired your Passport 8500 x50 into your Mustang!

Step 13: DRIVE FAST AND KEEP THE RUBBER SIDE DOWN!!!

Here's some unedited pics just in case...

05SDI

Thanks for the find!!!

NamelessLiar

LOL, not a find bro...I just spent hourswriting this thing up...BONA FIDE ORIGINAL! Good luck and if any questions I'll help if I can.

05SDI

EVEN BETTER!
Very nice write up Thank you! detailed and percise with good pics!!

I will be doing this soon. BUTbecause the local cops use laser. (and lower is better against laser)I will mountthe 8500low on the windshieldin front of the S/C gauges on the dash and run the mute switch and 'on & alert' lights if possible between shifter and cup holder. (depending on what I find when I see under the center console)

marcuskeeler

Hmmmm, it's a nice idea guys, but, a word of warning from an old-hand......

On a car I had I customised my dash top to allow for the permanent installation of a radar detector. I owned that car for a further 10 years and in fact my buddy still has it in his 'collection'. The radar detector I used then was obsolete within 18 months but I was stuck in the position of removing it and leaving a dumb hole in the dash, or leaving it in place albeit without 12v, which is what i did.
It ALWAYS bugged me that I'd mutilated the dash but there it was, in my face, every day I got in the darn car. My buddy couldn't live with it and removed the detector preferring the hole LOL

Of course, with this Mustangmod you could buy another overhead console cowling I guess.

Just trying to give you another perspective

mlcrycc

Pretty slick. There are lots of opportunities to use the overhead console. I used it for my Raptor install....A quick word of caution, however......
This particular application will be just a bit more challenging if you have the active alarm system, due to the interior motion sensors.....Probably still do-able, just a bit more challenging......

Nice job,
Mike



[IMG]local://upfiles/13557/2F0F6D00724C4AADBA7D697BAF280E91.jpg[/IMG]

NamelessLiar

Ah ha! I see, so that's why some light housings have the slits in the corners huh? Always wondered what the difference was. Yeah, a lil modification would be needed..(haha, a mod to a mod) but it still may be doable with the security overhead. Thanks for the insight!

157dB

Is that a ScotchLok connector I see in that picture mlcrycc?
Best to stay away from them type of insulation displacement
connectors. They are JUNK waiting to happen.

mlcrycc

Not quite sure which connection is a "ScotchLok" connector...?? Perhaps the red one? Regardless, everything in that picture is factory installed...No mods done in that photo....So I am curious which connector you are referring to.....

Mike

lldsandsll

do the black dots in the windshield and the tint affect performance?