"Dr Phils voice"

"Some where in the world there is a tribe missing there idiot".

 

Red loctite on the drain plug? R U retarded?

 

I haven't changed my oil yet, actually doing my first one (technically second, dealer did the first one free) Sunday. Unless they have something new, the drain plugs should last quite a while. Previously, the only gaskets I'd seen are rubber ones made into a metal washer and nylon washers. I can see the rubber/metal deteriorating after a while, but the nylon ones last a long time as long as you don't impact the things back on. My first car was a 91 cougar. I sold it in 2001 with 120k miles on it, regular oil changes every 3k miles and still had the original drain plug and gasket. Didn't leak at all. Same with my truck now, it's a 96 with 109k miles, all original drain plug.

oh, and the oil hopefully contaminated the locktite enough to make it removable. As delicate as the oil pans are these days, I'd be afraid of pulling the threads out when you remove it. Just be aware and don't force it when you remove it. Maybe it would help if the engine was hot.

 

According to the package, red loctite is for "permanent strength (pn 26240) or "high strength" (pn 27100). It says for cylinder block bolts, ring gear bolts....
I have had over 30 cars and have never had an oil pan bolt come loose. What was your rationale?

The drain plugs on jet engines are safety-wired down, but it's not like you can just pull over if the oil light comes on! There was aL-1011 flying out of Miami back in the 80's and they lost their tail engine due to no oil. They make an emergency landing and found out the O-ring was missing--and the two wing engine's had flamed out as well. Read page 4 of this safety alert. I'd hate to have been on that plane!
http://www.flightsafety.org/amb/amb_sept_oct99.pdf

http://home.swipnet.se/~w-26408/accident.htm

 

Red is for not removing it again. I'd take it out asap.

 

Maybe you should get the plug welded, then you would never have to worry about it coming out.

 

+1 I think you should remove it before you heat cycle it a few times and set it really good. If the oil didn't contaminate the locktite you could have a problem.

 

Red Loctite must be heated to 500 degrees to remove. You may have bought yourself a new oil pan

 

Wow. Maybe the next time you get a really great idea like this, you might want to run it past someone mechanically knowledgeable before you actually implement it on your car.

 

WBABABABWBABHAHAHAHAH

YOU GUYS BETTER GIVE ME AN AWARD FOR THIS ONE!!!!!

This is seriously right up there with BREAKING a spark plug off inside my X-type and THEN breaking a manifold bolt on that car after the spark plug was repaired. OOOOhhh, maybe this is as good as last weekend when the 2 hour driveshaft install took my 14 hours spread across 3 days. HAHAHHAA>

So after I read your responses I thought "Oh crap." and ran out to the garage to read the loktite package. Sure enough, it seems to say something like uhm PERMANENT and NEEDS 500 DEGREES TO BE REMOVED

Before my heart attack started I read "Sets in 20 minutes, but takes 24 hours to cure". OMG ITS BEEN 20 MINUTES BUT THERES STILL A CHANCE!

I grab the wrench and tug. ITS STUCK. It cured already!!!!!!!! OHNOESAZ HAS TOPPED HIMSELF! But just as Im about to call life quits I feel the bolt come loose and the nice new oil come pouring out. I then raced to Walmart, bought MORE oil and filled it again, thusly wasting more money.

Go me!

An interesting thing to note is wow the new oil that came out after I had run the engine for 2 minutes was really brown.... Is that much old left over? At least I can now say I've made the world's cleanest oil change tonight at a cost of about $60.