so it averages out to about $10 a pass, right? ($50 to fill up 10lb bottle, 5 passes per bottle)
but with the tps window-switch setup, activated at WOT,you'll have no choice but to spray in first, right? It would be quite the PITA to arm, purge and hit it on the fly...or are there ways around spraying in first with the window switch setup?

 

I was considering a Zex kit but I race my car regularly in the street legal class. NO2 is a big no no in street legal. They caught a guy running it in an 06 Charger R/T. They got suspicious when he ran a 12.30 1/4 mitime, duh.

 

Running "NAWS" will cause your exhaust manifolds to blow, and your diamond plate passenger footboards to drop out of the car at speeds in excess of 100 mph.

Seriously, though, yes, nitrous can ruin a stock engine if you don't have the car tuned right, or enough fuel...It's basically like giving your car an extra shot of really dense air that it can gulp in. However, when you do that, you also need to give the car more fuel to keep the car running at good stoichiometric levels (which, if I remember correctly, is like 14:1 ratio, or something like that - someone chime out what the ratio is), or else you get the car running lean, it starts knocking, and then stuff starts blowing up.

As for running the kit...I dunno if it's worth it, to me...There are a lot of extras that people don't mention that you really should run...The remote bottle opener is REALLY nice, especially if you're racing at a track; most tracks won't let you run with the bottle inside the passenger compartment for various safety reasons. This means that if you want to run it at the track, you need to go back to the back of the car, pop the trunk, open it up full, and then close it when you're done with your runs.

Then there's the bottle warmer. I know someone here said that they run in S. Florida, and they don't need it because the bottle is always hot. I say "nay nay". This is a simple physics lesson...Gay-Lussac's Law states that temperature affects pressure of the gas. Cooler bottle, less pressure coming out. Prime example of this is when you have one of those pressurized air cans that you use to dust out your computer...As you start using it, the can starts getting colder, and the pressure essentially starts dropping. Warm the can up a bit from the freezing temperatures causing condensation & frost on the outside of the can, and the pressure increases. The same thing happens to your nitrous bottle when you start using it. Volume of gas inside the container drops, the temperature surrounding the bottle drops, and the pressure is therefore lessened. Keep the bottle warm through a bottle warmer, and you have a more even temperature and the nitrous system will work more efficiently. (Cool stuff I learned in high school chemistry is actually helping out in the real world! )

 

I think it might be somewhere arounbd 11:1 air/fuel? I am not sure
but can you wire it up so you press the button after first and it will then start spraying at WOT?

 

yea, i dont flip the switch for mine to activate till I hit second, in first mine will roast the tires...

 

There are several window switches (Zex included) that allow you to set a rpm threshold before activating the window. Basicly you can lock out spraying in first gear. You tell the switch not to fire until you pass 5800 rpm once. Hence you pass 5800 on your shift from 1st to 2nd and the at the preset on 2nd gear it sprays. I have that function on mine but have not set it yet, just been switching it on in 2nd.

 

when you hit it does it come on nice and gradual or do you spin like crazy?

 

Thats what I got It is really neat. I get compliments everywhere I go. I have the 4 button no gauge engraved one in black.

 

LOL Same here. 1st time I didn't get to to run because of no helmet 13.99 and under you need helmet. 2nd Time no jacket. 3rd time I even brough my kitchens fire extinguisher just in case jaja

Andrew

 

11ish up to a max of 12.1 is safe anything over that you are asking for problems.