Electric Window insanity
08-01-2007, 12:28 PM
#11
3rd Gear Member
Join Date: May 2007
Location: DE
Posts: 550
RE: Electric Window insanity
ORIGINAL: 157db
Get a 12Vair compressor and some small air cylinders.
Make a bracket to mount them so as to mimic a human
hand and activate that switch on the door that makes the
windows go up and down. Then wire in some 12V electric air
valves up to that aftermarket alarm window-go-up-and-down
outputs. Otherwise its a no-go on the auto aftermarket windows.
The OEM alarm offers this window option you want so bad but
cant achieve aftermarket. Again, read your owners manual for
the details.[:@]
Mr. Insite here. Cant be done aftermarket without an external
PLC and some cute programming.
Get a 12Vair compressor and some small air cylinders.
Make a bracket to mount them so as to mimic a human
hand and activate that switch on the door that makes the
windows go up and down. Then wire in some 12V electric air
valves up to that aftermarket alarm window-go-up-and-down
outputs. Otherwise its a no-go on the auto aftermarket windows.
The OEM alarm offers this window option you want so bad but
cant achieve aftermarket. Again, read your owners manual for
the details.[:@]
Mr. Insite here. Cant be done aftermarket without an external
PLC and some cute programming.
08-01-2007, 12:36 PM
#12
2nd Gear Member
Join Date: May 2007
Location:
Posts: 156
RE: Electric Window insanity
Just make sure, whateveryou do, mount the siren somewhere that is not accessible to hands. I thought my alarm was fool proof. Well, the damn theives broke my window, popped the hood, and simply cut the ground wire to the siren (which was in plain view). Also, get a battery backup for it, because theives are smart enough that they'd probably try cutting your main battery to shut the siren off.
Just gotta think ahead*
Just gotta think ahead*
08-01-2007, 03:28 PM
#13
Cut & Paste Expert
Join Date: May 2007
Location: NW Arkansas
Posts: 13,322
RE: Electric Window insanity
ORIGINAL: tedBalog
When reading through the manual i came across a section, with the stock remote you could hold the lock button in, or turn your key and hold it to make the window go up or down.. There has to be a way to do it..
btw, if anyone knows how to activate this feature if your car doesn't normally have it - lemme know
When reading through the manual i came across a section, with the stock remote you could hold the lock button in, or turn your key and hold it to make the window go up or down.. There has to be a way to do it..
btw, if anyone knows how to activate this feature if your car doesn't normally have it - lemme know
08-01-2007, 03:29 PM
#14
Cut & Paste Expert
Join Date: May 2007
Location: NW Arkansas
Posts: 13,322
RE: Electric Window insanity
ORIGINAL: Tungsten06GT
Just make sure, whateveryou do, mount the siren somewhere that is not accessible to hands. I thought my alarm was fool proof. Well, the damn theives broke my window, popped the hood, and simply cut the ground wire to the siren (which was in plain view). Also, get a battery backup for it, because theives are smart enough that they'd probably try cutting your main battery to shut the siren off.
Just gotta think ahead*
Just make sure, whateveryou do, mount the siren somewhere that is not accessible to hands. I thought my alarm was fool proof. Well, the damn theives broke my window, popped the hood, and simply cut the ground wire to the siren (which was in plain view). Also, get a battery backup for it, because theives are smart enough that they'd probably try cutting your main battery to shut the siren off.
Just gotta think ahead*
along with one up front and one in the rear.
08-02-2007, 08:22 AM
#15
Cut & Paste Expert
Join Date: May 2007
Location: NW Arkansas
Posts: 13,322
RE: Electric Window insanity
OK, I am wrong again.
Here is how its done on an 07:
The motors are smart motors with the control modules for
UP/DOWN contained within the door panels. The
motor/modules are supplied 12V constant (LiteBlue C518)
along with a DACC or Accessory Delay power. You must
supply the modules 12V on the DACC wire when you
want the windows to be able to move, This is done either
with the alarm module 12V arming output or an off-delay relay.
The thought on this is to supply the DACC 12V requirement
for the windows to be able to move when you want them
to move (when the alarm is first armed). Either the alarm can
meet this requirement in the form of a timed output when first
armed of the required time needed to allow the windows to roll
up completely from the fully down position. Or a pulsed
output from the alarm when arming to trigger an off-delay
relay set to the required time. The colors of the DACC wires
are Red/LiteBlue for both the left and right motor/modules.
A diode should be used to prevent backfeeding of other
DACC controlled accessories in the vehicle. This is
connected at the SJB C2280G Red/LiteBlue wire. This requires
running a single wire from the drivers side door where the
relays are located to the SJB C2280G, the only oval connector
on the rear of the SJB.
The next requirement that needs to be met is the UP
and AUTO inputs to the modules. The UP is made normally
when the OEM switch is lifted to the first position making
the UP input and then the AUTO input is made in the second
position while maintaining the UP input. This can be
accomplished with a 4PDT relay. Hook the first set of NO
contacts of the relay to the UP module input (left side - White/Black )
and the other connection goes to 12V DACC connection to make
the relay sourcing. Then hook up the second set of contacts to the
AUTO module input (left side - Violet/LiteGreen) and the other
connection to 12V DACC connection to make it sourcing also.
The same needs to be done for the other side. (UP right side -
White/Yellow AUTO right side - Violet/LiteBlue). All the wires
can be accessed in the drivers door via C504 at the OEM power
window switch. 2 DPDT relays can also be used in place of the
4PDT relay if you cannot find one. Just hook the coils in parallel
and be sure to use a diode accross the coil for PIV protection.
Constant 12V can be obtained from the LiteBlue wire on C518
on the left front motor/module.
Now the coils of the relays need to be properly pulsed at arming.
If the alarm unit supplies a timed output of the proper amount
to allow the windows to roll up from the fully down position
then a one-shot relay needs to be used to activate the UP/AUTO
relay(s) for about 1 second upon arming. Then the alarm unit
continues to supply power on the DACC long enough to
allow the windows to roll up.
Or if all you have is a short pulsed output at arming,
an off-delay relay will need to be used to provide the DACC
12V requirement for the needed time to roll the windows up and
the pulsed output of the alarm would allow the connection
to the UP/AUTO relay(s) directly from the alarm to fulfill that
requirement without the need for any additional timing device.
Another thought is an inhibit for when the ignition switch
is on to prevent no warning accidental auto window roll up.
I would want some type of OH S#&T EMERGENCY STOP
button.
I verified operation of the above mod by using two off-delay
relays with one being set to the time required to allow the
windows to roll up from the fully down position and the second
one being a 4PDT set to a 1 second pulse to mimic the UP
and AUTO inputs to the left/right motor/modules. I used a diode
at the SJB C2280G Red/LiteBlue wire to keep other OEM
accessories hooked to the DACC wire from being powered
by my circuit. I then hooked up the inputs of the delay relays
to the trunk release output of the SmartJunctionBox and now
I can roll up my windows with the trunk release button on my
remote. Hmmm. 1 press = UP and 2 quick presses = Trunk Release?
I will be thinking about the circuit needed to do this. The addition
of yet another relay breaks the connection between the timer relays
and the trunk release output of the SJB preventing the rolling
up of the windows while the ignition is on. I should have just
used a 12V PLC and whipped up some logic for proper operation.
Thanks for making me think about this one. I never would have
whipped up the circuit without being questioned:
How do you get your windows to roll......
It can be done but its not for the weak at heart.
Here is how its done on an 07:
The motors are smart motors with the control modules for
UP/DOWN contained within the door panels. The
motor/modules are supplied 12V constant (LiteBlue C518)
along with a DACC or Accessory Delay power. You must
supply the modules 12V on the DACC wire when you
want the windows to be able to move, This is done either
with the alarm module 12V arming output or an off-delay relay.
The thought on this is to supply the DACC 12V requirement
for the windows to be able to move when you want them
to move (when the alarm is first armed). Either the alarm can
meet this requirement in the form of a timed output when first
armed of the required time needed to allow the windows to roll
up completely from the fully down position. Or a pulsed
output from the alarm when arming to trigger an off-delay
relay set to the required time. The colors of the DACC wires
are Red/LiteBlue for both the left and right motor/modules.
A diode should be used to prevent backfeeding of other
DACC controlled accessories in the vehicle. This is
connected at the SJB C2280G Red/LiteBlue wire. This requires
running a single wire from the drivers side door where the
relays are located to the SJB C2280G, the only oval connector
on the rear of the SJB.
The next requirement that needs to be met is the UP
and AUTO inputs to the modules. The UP is made normally
when the OEM switch is lifted to the first position making
the UP input and then the AUTO input is made in the second
position while maintaining the UP input. This can be
accomplished with a 4PDT relay. Hook the first set of NO
contacts of the relay to the UP module input (left side - White/Black )
and the other connection goes to 12V DACC connection to make
the relay sourcing. Then hook up the second set of contacts to the
AUTO module input (left side - Violet/LiteGreen) and the other
connection to 12V DACC connection to make it sourcing also.
The same needs to be done for the other side. (UP right side -
White/Yellow AUTO right side - Violet/LiteBlue). All the wires
can be accessed in the drivers door via C504 at the OEM power
window switch. 2 DPDT relays can also be used in place of the
4PDT relay if you cannot find one. Just hook the coils in parallel
and be sure to use a diode accross the coil for PIV protection.
Constant 12V can be obtained from the LiteBlue wire on C518
on the left front motor/module.
Now the coils of the relays need to be properly pulsed at arming.
If the alarm unit supplies a timed output of the proper amount
to allow the windows to roll up from the fully down position
then a one-shot relay needs to be used to activate the UP/AUTO
relay(s) for about 1 second upon arming. Then the alarm unit
continues to supply power on the DACC long enough to
allow the windows to roll up.
Or if all you have is a short pulsed output at arming,
an off-delay relay will need to be used to provide the DACC
12V requirement for the needed time to roll the windows up and
the pulsed output of the alarm would allow the connection
to the UP/AUTO relay(s) directly from the alarm to fulfill that
requirement without the need for any additional timing device.
Another thought is an inhibit for when the ignition switch
is on to prevent no warning accidental auto window roll up.
I would want some type of OH S#&T EMERGENCY STOP
button.
I verified operation of the above mod by using two off-delay
relays with one being set to the time required to allow the
windows to roll up from the fully down position and the second
one being a 4PDT set to a 1 second pulse to mimic the UP
and AUTO inputs to the left/right motor/modules. I used a diode
at the SJB C2280G Red/LiteBlue wire to keep other OEM
accessories hooked to the DACC wire from being powered
by my circuit. I then hooked up the inputs of the delay relays
to the trunk release output of the SmartJunctionBox and now
I can roll up my windows with the trunk release button on my
remote. Hmmm. 1 press = UP and 2 quick presses = Trunk Release?
I will be thinking about the circuit needed to do this. The addition
of yet another relay breaks the connection between the timer relays
and the trunk release output of the SJB preventing the rolling
up of the windows while the ignition is on. I should have just
used a 12V PLC and whipped up some logic for proper operation.
Thanks for making me think about this one. I never would have
whipped up the circuit without being questioned:
How do you get your windows to roll......
It can be done but its not for the weak at heart.
08-02-2007, 08:58 AM
#16
Cut & Paste Expert
Join Date: May 2007
Location: NW Arkansas
Posts: 13,322
RE: Electric Window insanity
ORIGINAL: marcuskeeler
Their conclusion was that the window motor units have modules inside them which, rather than respond to DC, talk to the digital bus of the car. Marcus
Their conclusion was that the window motor units have modules inside them which, rather than respond to DC, talk to the digital bus of the car. Marcus
The installers have no concept of the mustang wiring.
It took me less than 10 mins to come up with the
workable idea once I looked at the wiring diagrams.
It was built and installed in less than 2 hours from
parts/timers I had laying around the house.
08-02-2007, 09:01 AM
#17
3rd Gear Member
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 983
RE: Electric Window insanity
ORIGINAL: 157db
Get a 12Vair compressor and some small air cylinders.
Make a bracket to mount them so as to mimic a human
hand and activate that switch on the door that makes the
windows go up and down.
Get a 12Vair compressor and some small air cylinders.
Make a bracket to mount them so as to mimic a human
hand and activate that switch on the door that makes the
windows go up and down.
[sm=funnypostabove.gif]
08-02-2007, 09:34 AM
#19
5th Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2006
Posts: 3,401
RE: Electric Window insanity
None of you have partners who use the car and make a habit of leaving the passenger window cranked down when they walk away from the car then? LOL Or maybe close the door look over your shoulder and see the darn window is open a couple of inches, or like to leave the car open with the windows down while you're doing something else?
Besides, how much of the stuff we do to our cars is absolutely critical? Why do we make them faster? The speed limit is only 65mph on the freeway [8D]
Besides, how much of the stuff we do to our cars is absolutely critical? Why do we make them faster? The speed limit is only 65mph on the freeway [8D]
08-03-2007, 11:25 AM
#20
Cut & Paste Expert
Join Date: May 2007
Location: NW Arkansas
Posts: 13,322
RE: Electric Window insanity
ORIGINAL: marcuskeeler
You're the helpful type aren't you? 
Perhaps somebody with a little more insight could offer some help. I'm sure that many folk would like the windows to roll up when the alarm is activated.
And you wont get it to work.
Perhaps somebody with a little more insight could offer some help. I'm sure that many folk would like the windows to roll up when the alarm is activated.
I was wrong.
You were right.