harraid5711

i'm still new to the mod bug and i need you guys' opinion. i just received my saleen short throw adapter and am itching to put it in. my mechanic can't get to it till tuesday and i don't think i can wait.......my question, honestly, can a guy with moderate mechanical skills, deep sockets, wrenches, and a pair of jack stands get the job done?? i'm also wanting to put in the steeda shifter bushings as well.i've read many other posts, and these guys make it sound like a snap, but i don't wanna get in over my head. i'm no mechanic, but i did install my own axle-backs no prob!! thanks for your input

Simon1

It shouldn't be too hard. I put in my PRO5.0 without taking the drive line out. It's not rocket sceince and you should have no problem. Just go slow and follow directions.

157dB

There is a rite up on it.
Search.
I installed it and bushings in about an hour.
Taco.
https://mustangforums.com/m_3079059/tm.htm

lldsandsll

god bless tb.

i just got mine in the mail today too!!! i cant wait!

TacoBill

Just a reminder from my write-up...

* Loctite the OEM nut that goes on the shift linkage stud pin. Use caution when tightening this nut, DO NOT OVER TORQUE IT! I only brought the nut down until it made contact with the plastic bushing, then gave it an additional 1/8 turn. If you tighten this nut too much, it'll make shifting (into the gates) very difficult.
* Let the Loctite dry before any extended shifting drive.

I've read posts in the past where if that nut on the linkage stud is tightened too tight, it'll make shifting very difficult and extremely notchy.
I also read one guy's post where he barely tightened that nut and during his test drive, it fell off somewhere in the street!

Learn from these guys, that nut must be tightened just right. Good luck with the install! [8D]

harraid5711

thanks guys!! i'll be giving it a shot tomorrow night....stay tuned lol

harraid5711

is there anyway this thing can be installed without having to get under the car??? dang eibach pro kit!!!! i can't seem to find a safe way to raise the front [:@]

157dB

2x6 Oak and a fork truck is what I use.
At home its the floor jack with a special
adapter that locks into holes on the sub-frame.
The adapter is covered with rubber and has
a 1" stub protruding that fits right in a factory
hole on the sub-frame right behind the front
tires on either side. I have to pull it up on blocks
to get the floor jack under it first though.

TacoBill

I use 2 floor jacks. One on the front-side first to raise the nose high enough to slip the 2nd jackunder front crossmemberfrom the front. Jack stands are placed just outwards from the center jacking point.

Coming back down, the car is once again placed underthe 1st side jack, front jack gets slid out, then the side jack lowered.

I know all this sounds complicated, but it's the quickestmethod I can come up with.

On the Rhino ramps, I don't think it'll get the nose up high enough for you to squeeze under the car where the shifter is.

Philostang

Hi harraid,

This might be moot, since you said you were trying it out tonight...but, just in case: the Rhino ramps will do the trick, I just did it yesterday with ramps. Use cardboard on the floor and you'll gain an extra inch or two in clearance over a crawler--plenty of room to work.

Good luck and enjoy!

BTW, I forget who mentioned it in their own write-up, but you might try to toggle back and forth tightening the stud bolt and then checking to see how the shifter feels for you. That way you aren't guessing as to how much is "too tight" for you. It takes a bit longer, because you have to mark the bolt and unscrew it to put the Loctite on, but it's a sure method.