I want to lower my mustang and increase the handling quite a bit. What do you think is the best set up with out spending an arm and a leg. should I get shocks and struts or just springs, any other important suspension add ons as well (camber plates, sway bar, etc) I want good quality and I am will to spend, just not thousands.

 

dspecs and eibach pro kit

 

Tokico shocks and Struts: ~$500
Eibach Pro Kit Springs: ~$223

Thats a start but it doesn't end here. This will lower your car, meaning you need to re-center your rear axle with an Adjustable Pan Hard bar: Steeda, BMR, Spohn are all good. Also you will need to change the pinion angle meaning either adjustable Lower Control Arms or an Adjustable Upper Control arm, same brands. Your camber will be out of wack so you will need either the adjustable bolts (cheap route ~$40) or the adjustable camber plates ($220-330). There are other bits and pieces, braces, relo brackets, etc. In the end it adds up - lowering the car AND making it handle better is not cheap, count on about 2K. You can go cheaper but like the old saying goes...you get what you pay for.

 

I know that the upgrades are endless but I am more concerned with improving handling not creating a race car, I want it to work properly and cause no damage to anyother components while still benefiting handling and giving it a better look.

 

I'm no expert but I'd say you should be ok with struts shocks new springs and a panhard bar, maybe a new set of sways if you can afford it, planning on doing the same to my car with a few extras, going to spend little over 2k on mine BMR has some nice stuff imo

 

If I were to do it on mine (most likely not because I'm thinking about trading it in this coming August) I'd go with the Saleen suspension kit which consists of 4 springs, 4 struts (Tokico as, well, only thing is they are not Dspecs, but still good quality) and a front sway bar. It's goes for 725.

 

Way I understand it, the pinion angle and panhard bar are within tolerances if your springs selection doesn't lower the car more than an inch-and-a-half. There! Saved you some money already.

Steeda Sport springs (- 1.0" front, -1.2" rear), Tokico D-Spec adjustables, GT sway bars f&r or add a larger rear bar (H&R 26mm?), some tires stickier than standard issue, and the handling will be transformed! Like mine!

 

go all the way and get a full griggs suspension hahaha

Here is what you get with them, i am contemplating buying one soon.

GR40 Road Race Performance Complete System
[GR40RT Chassis w/MDS]


Kit Contents
Tubular Front Cradle
SLA Tower Set
Bump Steer Kit
Lower Steering Shaft
"Track" Steering Rack
SLA Severe Duty Front Lower Control Arms
SLA Race Front Upper Control Arms
Ball Joints
Aluminum Drop Spindle and Hub Assy.
Koni Aluminum D/A Front Race Coil Over Kit
Front Anti-Roll Bar Kit Zero Bind
TorqueArm Kit
T/A Cover
GR40 Watts Link Kit
Koni Aluminum Race Rear D/A Shocks w/GR40 valving
Axle Bracket Kit
Shock Bracket Kit (for use with 315mm tires)
Adjustable Length Alum Rear Control Arms
Front and rear springs
Rear Anti-Roll Bar Kit
Based on the kit that won it all. THE standard of excellence. The most popular chassis system in late-model road racing history. Twelve years on the market and still dominant. The proof is in the race records. If you want to be consistently fast you need the World Challenge Kit. There is no comparison for this one. And race parts with a lifetime warranty…really.
$13,621.06

 

Very interesting, but it doesn't really belong here in response to the OP's query:
The only deleterious effect of modifications at a level like I suggested: you need a little more care in and out of driveways (get that angle right) and at parking curbs. I've taken a bit of surface off the CDC Classic front spoiler/air dam edge. Otherwise, minimal ride-comfort changes, no component interferences, no failures. Not usually mentioned: it'll be worthwhile applying a little LocTiteâ„¢ to the swaybar link bolts and the struts-to-chassis bolts. The "locking" nuts seem to work loose under "spirited" driving.