I over tightened the rear shock and and when I went to to remove it, it cross threaded. All my fault. It's gonna be a bitch getting it off to replace it.

 

So far, I like them a lot. Just waiting for a dry day so I can take a corner at more that 20 mph. [&:]

Raining cats and dogs the last few days, as you know!

 

I love mine...they handle like a dream...I still need to get the alignment checked, but it must not be way off because it doesn't pull hard to the left or the right...I wanted to let everything settle before the alignment...and make sure I didn't need to make any other kinds of adjustments...

 

Curious to know the setting you guys use..

I am in the middle..

 

Mine are pretty much in the middle all the way around...

 

Should have got camber plates too, I had mine professionally installed.

 

yeah..... i saw on the news
about flooding out in those parts....

glad you like the setup, so far

 

I have the steeda caster camber plates/upper strut mount...

 

In addition to the front strut top nut there are two other locations that are basically the same - a nut over a shaft where you need to apply opposite pressure to the nut and the shaft: The rear shocks top nut (torque to 30) and the front sway bar end link (torque to 85). Its the same problem, you tighten the nut and the shaft turns. This precludes using a torque wrench in a normal way...i.e. with a socket. So how the heck is it suppose to be done, there must be some special tool.

Anyway - what I'm taking away from this is most people don't worry about the proper torque and just tighten them down as best they can.

 

I just got them as tight as I could before it started to turn the shaft. I've never had an issue with it so I assume it's good. For the question of where you set them...

In the front (I sold the rear shocks as I didn't like them and had better 60's with the stock shocks) I keep them at 4 turns out for the street and 6 1/2 turns out at the track.

I cut 1.40 / 1.41 60's...