Stall
5th Gear Member
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 3,031
From: Babylon, NY
RE: Stall
The lockup capacity varies also. My new converter, as well as TCI's streetfighter are single clutch converters. Unlike the dual clutch converter we have stock , the single clutch cannot hold the lock very well. On the highway at, say 70 mph, if you mildly lean on the throttle with the stock converter, you will feel the engine torque pull you along and the converter will stay locked. With the aftermarket single clutch converters, it will immediately unlock with the slightest touch of the throttle. I, for one, find this annoying and unecessary.
I love the performance of my new converter (2800-3000 stall), but I will give it some time to break in and do a couple of track runs before I make the final decision of swapping it back out or not.
I love the performance of my new converter (2800-3000 stall), but I will give it some time to break in and do a couple of track runs before I make the final decision of swapping it back out or not.
3rd Gear Member
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 864
From:
RE: Stall
drbobvs - I wonder if your lock up problem is with the actual converter or is it in your tune? Converter lockup schedules can be altered within the tune. Did you happen to change to a different tune when you installed the converter? Normally there would be no reason to change the tune if all you did was swap the converter but I'm just wondering if that isn't what's going in in your case.
5th Gear Member
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 3,031
From: Babylon, NY
RE: Stall
No, I'm still running the JDM tune. I spoke with Jim Jr, regarding this issue. He said there were a few transmission parameters that could be altered to try to correct this, but he said it was more likely that the single disc unit just couldn't hold the lock. He told me his TCI unit did the same thing. Maybe I'll give Brent a call?
4th Gear Member
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 1,173
From: WI
RE: Stall
ORIGINAL: RedFire281
The most accurate method of determining YOUR car's actual stall speed is to launch the car at full throttle and note the RPM at which the car actually takes off. This will be quite low on cars in stock trim, maybe between 1800 and 2200 RPM., higher if the car is modified. The stall speed should be rated at about 500 - 750 RPM under your engines's peak torque While you don't want to end up with a converter with too high a stall speed, don't be too conservative because it is possible to get a converter with too low a stall speed, which will have roughly the same effect as too high of a stall speed. Know your camshaft specs; in stock trim you make most of your torque down low in the RPM range, and you probably won't need more that a 2500 RPM stall speed, if even that much. Know your car's weight; remember, lighter cars will lower the rated stall speed; heavier cars will have the opposite effect. Install good brakes because you want to be able to hold your tires still up to the point your engine produces peak torque. And also remember, high stall converters generate a lot of heat - which is the number one killer of transmissions - so get a good external transmission cooler.
ORIGINAL: sailing220
Can somebody explain "stall" to me? Stall as in "a 2500+ stall," not "my engine stalled." [/align] [/align]
Can somebody explain "stall" to me? Stall as in "a 2500+ stall," not "my engine stalled." [/align] [/align]
The most accurate method of determining YOUR car's actual stall speed is to launch the car at full throttle and note the RPM at which the car actually takes off. This will be quite low on cars in stock trim, maybe between 1800 and 2200 RPM., higher if the car is modified. The stall speed should be rated at about 500 - 750 RPM under your engines's peak torque While you don't want to end up with a converter with too high a stall speed, don't be too conservative because it is possible to get a converter with too low a stall speed, which will have roughly the same effect as too high of a stall speed. Know your camshaft specs; in stock trim you make most of your torque down low in the RPM range, and you probably won't need more that a 2500 RPM stall speed, if even that much. Know your car's weight; remember, lighter cars will lower the rated stall speed; heavier cars will have the opposite effect. Install good brakes because you want to be able to hold your tires still up to the point your engine produces peak torque. And also remember, high stall converters generate a lot of heat - which is the number one killer of transmissions - so get a good external transmission cooler.
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