I wouldn't trust the dealer to do oil changes, they always screwed up for me. Not putting enough oil, putting the wrong grade, not tightening the drain plug, etc.

Lots of folks here do it themselves.

For me I bring my cars to the jiffy lube around the corner and watch their every move with an eagle eye. I also bring my own oil and filter.

I've used Mobil1 on all my cars for the last 10 years and do the same on the Mustang. I use the Ford oil filter, which you can find at your dealership or walmart.

 

08mustanggt, here's a link to a DIY on the forum:
https://mustangforums.com/m_3065332/tm.htm

Invest in a set of ramps (I use Rhino Ramps. They have a very shallow grade so you don't scrape the chin spoiler) and a decent filter wrench and drain pan. And buy a LOT of paper towels. It CAN be messy sometimes but I like to give the underneath a good visual everytime I get underneath. The ramps are also handy for any exhaust work. The S197 is pretty easy to do exhaust work on as it's all slip-fit and clamps.

 

Change it now and dont wait for 5000 miles. [:@]
Use Mobil1 Full Synthetic.

 

Personally I think this whole oiltype thing is just a vasty conspiracy by a union of the world's top oil companies, oil producing nations, and the German and Japanese automakers (see, it's WW II all over again) to fleece us from our money.

Does anyone actually see a difference in their cars when using regular oil as opposed to the more expensive 5w20 synthetic or sythnetic blend? Didn't think so.

That's why I just use cooking oil for my cars and I never change it, only fill it up when it gets low. I've never had any problems.

 

Disregarding the cooking oil comment, synthetics and synthetic blends are proven to NOT breakdown andproven TO protect longer than dino oils. Some people claim their cars run smoother or cooler. I haven't noticed that but that's their opinions and they're entitled to them.IF you intend to keep your vehicle for a long, long time and if you desire to increase the frequency at which you change the oil and filter, then synthetics are a good way to go. I've used dino oil in MANY cars that I put well over 200,000 miles onusing a3,000 mile oil change frequencyand others that faired equally well with synthetic and 10,000 mile oil change frequency. No loss of compression or other oil related problemsin either case.

 

I know man, I was just kidding. I use synthetics for the cars that need reccomend them, but only synthetic blend for my Mustang.

I've had my full synthetic oil sent it for testing once when I changed it at 9,800 miles and it came back as still good. Can't do that with the regular stuff.

The cookin' oil comment was supposed to be the giveaway ha...

But serioulsy, synthetic saves you time and protects your engine, especially on cold weather startups. No doubt about that.

 

I had no doubt about the cooking oil, np. I've used the dino oils in all my cars in cold climates. As I said above, I'vetaken numerous carsover 200,000 miles on both dinos and synthetics. As far as protection, if you don't let dinos breakdown, both types protect equally well. Synthetics may have an edge in overall lubricating capabilities butnothing that shows up for me in real-life use. Becasue I can put over 3,000 miles on my vehicles within 2-4 weeks, I use synthetic MAINLY to keep from draggin' my 52 year old **** under the car frequently.
[sm=violin.gif]

 

Ha, that's as good of a reason as any.

 

change it now i changed mine at 1200 my next change will be the motor craft i think then ill go full syn

 

Yes I do see a difference.
Name Brand Synthetic is usually good for double the drain interval.
A Premium Synthetic that meets specs such as M-B 229.5 will usually go triple.
As cheap as used oil analysis is these days its pretty easy to see the diffference.
In wear metals however you would be correct.

Most people are just as well off with conventional. They tend to change synthetic about twice as often as conventional requires.

There are no Non-Synthetic Blend 5W-20's to the best of my knowledge. It is theorectically possible but costs more to do it that way. The 5W-20 marketed as conventional usually has a less robust additive package.