KDWS at 40psi bad?
#21
6th Gear Member
RE: KDWS at 40psi bad?
ORIGINAL: Orion_240
Doesn't your sticker say 32?
ORIGINAL: ht11121991
I run 35. I usually stick with the little sticker in the door jam. Hope that helps.
I run 35. I usually stick with the little sticker in the door jam. Hope that helps.
#23
RE: KDWS at 40psi bad?
Actually, the explanation given on that site makes sense. Most cars don't have the power or the wide tire to accelerate wear on the center patch from distortion. For most cars, the standard rules are true. Add a wider tire where the contact patch can be distorted with torque and the wear pattern changes.
#24
RE: KDWS at 40psi bad?
ORIGINAL: 157db
More air equals more wear in the center.
Less air equals wear on the outer edges and little wear in the middle.
Go back and question his logic before running 40PSI to keep them
from wearing in the middle too fast.
Does this guy sell you your tires by some freak Coincidence.
If so, remember, he SELLS tires.
More air equals more wear in the center.
Less air equals wear on the outer edges and little wear in the middle.
Go back and question his logic before running 40PSI to keep them
from wearing in the middle too fast.
Does this guy sell you your tires by some freak Coincidence.
If so, remember, he SELLS tires.
The company is Thurston Spring Service andtheir business is suspension work on all cars, trucks, semis, you name it.
He never once tried to sell me a tire or said bring it back when you need tires, so your logic is flawed here.
Theguy"seemed" likehe knew his stuff and I find it interesting what he told me is what others are hinting to about these tires.
This subject needs more scrutiny; does anyone else want to weight in here?
#30
RE: KDWS at 40psi bad?
That they deal with 18-wheelers may have something to do with them tending toward higher pressures. Underinflation there is serious business (and probably good for a DOT ticket and fine if they catch it at a weigh station). Never mind that half a mpg is a huge difference with diesel over $4/gallon and you're only getting 5 or 6 mpg when loaded.
For most cars, 40 psi is too much under most circumstances. I can't speak for the Marauder as I know nothing about it, its suspension, or its wheel/tire package. But in general, 40 psi is too much for the rear tires any car that carries at least 52% of its weight on the front tires, has same-size tires all around, and they're of appropriate size for the vehicle weight. Especially if you're talking 40 psi cold. It's still a little high even for front tires, just not quite as excessive. And I can't think offhand how overinflation could lessen center-tread wear either.
About the only exception that I can think of right away involves heavy trunk loads (as in, beyond vehicle loading limits, that most of us do anyway at least once in a while even though we shouldn't).
And autocross, where testing may show improvements with various wheel/tire/car packages on certain course layouts. But FWIW, I've found that at least on the lots where I run that the combination of 38-ish front and 35-ish rear measured hot worked at least as well on a stick axle car of generally similar size, weight, weight distribution, power, and wheel width as higher pressures did. And I tried all the way up to about 48/43. 37/33 is about where the sweet spot on the FWD car (Mazda 626) lies.
On some performance-oriented tires there are (usually triangular) shapes molded into the shoulder areas of the tires. If you're cornering at least fairly hard, you want the scuffed area of the tread to extend to the points of the triangles.
38/35 hot is about 36/33 cold at this time of year. For now, the 235/50-18 KDWS on the Mustang are at 35/31 cold (I don't need to carry heavy loads in the trunk or adult passengers in the back seat of this car, so I'm not afraid to be a psi "below spec" in the rear when cold). So far, so good, though with less than 300 miles on the car I'm not leaning on it very hard in any way yet.
Norm
For most cars, 40 psi is too much under most circumstances. I can't speak for the Marauder as I know nothing about it, its suspension, or its wheel/tire package. But in general, 40 psi is too much for the rear tires any car that carries at least 52% of its weight on the front tires, has same-size tires all around, and they're of appropriate size for the vehicle weight. Especially if you're talking 40 psi cold. It's still a little high even for front tires, just not quite as excessive. And I can't think offhand how overinflation could lessen center-tread wear either.
About the only exception that I can think of right away involves heavy trunk loads (as in, beyond vehicle loading limits, that most of us do anyway at least once in a while even though we shouldn't).
And autocross, where testing may show improvements with various wheel/tire/car packages on certain course layouts. But FWIW, I've found that at least on the lots where I run that the combination of 38-ish front and 35-ish rear measured hot worked at least as well on a stick axle car of generally similar size, weight, weight distribution, power, and wheel width as higher pressures did. And I tried all the way up to about 48/43. 37/33 is about where the sweet spot on the FWD car (Mazda 626) lies.
On some performance-oriented tires there are (usually triangular) shapes molded into the shoulder areas of the tires. If you're cornering at least fairly hard, you want the scuffed area of the tread to extend to the points of the triangles.
38/35 hot is about 36/33 cold at this time of year. For now, the 235/50-18 KDWS on the Mustang are at 35/31 cold (I don't need to carry heavy loads in the trunk or adult passengers in the back seat of this car, so I'm not afraid to be a psi "below spec" in the rear when cold). So far, so good, though with less than 300 miles on the car I'm not leaning on it very hard in any way yet.
Norm