Holliday not Holiday

 

got mine at autozone, worked fine.

 

FWIW, I asked the chemical rep that provides all of the oil, grease etc to the company I work for, what the difference isbetween anti-seize and nickel anti-seize. He said that all anti-seize compound made for general automotive use is "nickel anti-seize".

Apparently years ago, anti-seize contained lead instead of nickel. When the laws changed, a lot of companies started advertising their products as "NICKEL ANTI-SEIZE COMPOUND". In fact, he said that is all you are going to find in most auto parts stores. Some may claim to be better, different etc, but they all do the same job.

 

I got my Permatex nickel anti-seize on-line and it is rated to 2,400 degrees. I have seen it at my local Advance Auto Parts recently though. Just be sure you don't put it on the threads and apply it VERY lightly to the ground electrode surround but keep it away from the electrode itself or you'll have serious misfires and you'll be buying new plugs.

It is very easy removing the plugs, it took me all of 1-hour total start to finish. If you get any resistance as you start them out spray some Seafoam or other similar release agent / solvent around the base of the plug and let it soak for about 15-minutes or so. The TSB spells it out pretty darn well.

 

Thanks, it's nice to get some useful information.

I used the anti-seize that I already had, and all the plugs actually came out pretty easy. I don't think I had them torqued quite to spec last time I took them out. This time, I used a torque wrench.

Job's done btw. The plugs had 18K on them, and the 93 octane tune from Brenspeed is still looking pretty good as the plugs were just a little off-white with no signs of rich or lean or any detonation. There was the expected rust-colored carbon deposit all the way up the ground strap to the plug seat, and I also took some throttle-body cleaner to the plug holes in the heads. Cleaned them up real nice and installed the new plugs.

 

Actually, it's "Holiday",seeing that I'm into doing nothing all day andI've never been to the OK Corral.

BTW:Thanks for thinking you knew better thanme what my name on this forum should be. [sm=smiley20.gif]

 

<---Materials/Metallurgist

Not true at all! Both copper and aluminum antiseizeare made for general automotive use. However, these antiseize compounds are made for low temperature service use such as water pump bolts, header flange bolts, etc. Nickel antiseize however, will not oxidize like the former metals at the high temps and pressures located in the combustion chamber! Your chemical rep sounds like a dumb-***.

 

This guy went into a great deal of detail about different types and usages, but I thought I would spare myself and readers the time of wading through a bunch of info. This thread was talking about anti-seize for spark plugs so I tried to tailor a post that focused on products used in that capacity.

AND I have found that 99% of the time most people use the same anti-seize compound for all applications and 99% of the auto parts stores I have been in sell only one or two types of anti-seize, the nickel and the copper. But, usually it'sjust the nickel compoundand that's whats in those little packets at the checkout.

but thanks for clearing that up.

 

So here's a picture of 2 of the 8 original Motorcraft plugs. 18K miles, running JLTII intake, deletes, and Brenspeed 93 oct tune. Idling for3-4 minutes before pulled.