Rear Rotor Problems...
#1
Rear Rotor Problems...
Okay... so I'm TRYING (2nd attempt) to swap my little 6ers open 7.5" diff with a GT takeoff I bought a couple of months ago...
here's my first major problem, the rotors are frozen on the axle! rust looks like it has built up a lip preventing the rotors from sliding out... i'm using wd-40/liquid wrench to help break down the rust, but my question is did any of you when converting brake kits or possibly replacing rear rotors encounter this problem?
it's a poor design!!!
any/all help will be greatly appreciated (as I wait for the liquid wrench to hopefully do its job).
thanks!
here's my first major problem, the rotors are frozen on the axle! rust looks like it has built up a lip preventing the rotors from sliding out... i'm using wd-40/liquid wrench to help break down the rust, but my question is did any of you when converting brake kits or possibly replacing rear rotors encounter this problem?
it's a poor design!!!
any/all help will be greatly appreciated (as I wait for the liquid wrench to hopefully do its job).
thanks!
#3
RE: Rear Rotor Problems...
well... i take back my comment about poor design because I read in the manual that you're supposed to coat the hub with anti-seize, which OBVIOUSLY was not done whenever my car's rotors were put on last (I bought it used...)
trust me, a rubber mallot did nothing to fix this.
for anyone that may encounter this problem... I took a gear puller to the rotor and gave it some slight pressure. using a regular hammer i beat on the puller until the rotor loosened up. No scratches, no warping, no rubber mallot.
now I'm off to finish the job!
trust me, a rubber mallot did nothing to fix this.
for anyone that may encounter this problem... I took a gear puller to the rotor and gave it some slight pressure. using a regular hammer i beat on the puller until the rotor loosened up. No scratches, no warping, no rubber mallot.
now I'm off to finish the job!
#4
RE: Rear Rotor Problems...
ORIGINAL: danbevsv6rumbler
well... i take back my comment about poor design because I read in the manual that you're supposed to coat the hub with anti-seize, which OBVIOUSLY was not done whenever my car's rotors were put on last (I bought it used...)
trust me, a rubber mallot did nothing to fix this.
for anyone that may encounter this problem... I took a gear puller to the rotor and gave it some slight pressure. using a regular hammer i beat on the puller until the rotor loosened up. No scratches, no warping, no rubber mallot.
now I'm off to finish the job!
well... i take back my comment about poor design because I read in the manual that you're supposed to coat the hub with anti-seize, which OBVIOUSLY was not done whenever my car's rotors were put on last (I bought it used...)
trust me, a rubber mallot did nothing to fix this.
for anyone that may encounter this problem... I took a gear puller to the rotor and gave it some slight pressure. using a regular hammer i beat on the puller until the rotor loosened up. No scratches, no warping, no rubber mallot.
now I'm off to finish the job!
Maybe this is because of driving in water over the tire sidewall
height and up onto the rim as the owners manual states not to do.
I would be checking that stang over for more high water damage.
#5
RE: Rear Rotor Problems...
You are going to need a special tool(any good auto parts store-$15.00)to turn the caliper piston back in. The piston has to be turned and pushed at the same time. This will allow you to easily remount the caliper over the rotor. Don't try to just mash them back on. The brake pads will adjust themselves the first time you step on the brakes. The rust lip on the rotor is normal on all disc brake systems. The brake pad doesn't touch there and so the rotor doesn't wear there thus creating the lip.
#6
RE: Rear Rotor Problems...
^^^^ Sorry, misread your thread. There defiantly shouldn't be that much rust on the axle shaft. Mine slid right off. What gears did you get in the 8.8? Hope everything goes back together easy,mine did.
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