Kaldar142

hey guys,

right now i'm averaging high 12s with my current mods, but i still have more room to improve.

i'm confident in my driving ability and i'm pretty consistent

i want to have a reliable mid-12 sec car on street tires, so heres what i'm thinking:

steeda delete plates
steeda UDPs
BMR LCA relocation kit


i'm on a tight budget so anything will help, such as would removing the sparetire/tools help any?

next time at the track i will be lowering tire pressures and adjusting my shocks more too to help dial it in.

turbotbirdguy79

It seems you have the best mod of all,being able to drive.I dont see why its not possible If you can come out of the hole good.My buddy had a 98 TA with a lid and full exhaust and was running some crappy kumho street tires and nailing mid 12 all day at the track.Nice car BTW!

Yonco

What about a Alu DS? Its a little more pricey but on spydershafts site it says .21 improvemetn in the 1/4 on a stock GT. -Jon

Kaldar142

hmmm, alu DS isn't totally out of the question then...


i'm just looking for minor mods at the moment.

my wrx project car is a money pit at the moment but i finally have some extra coinage to sling around haha

Kaldar142

what place has the best prices on sypdershaft driveshafts?

jwgroovin

I assume you are using drag radials or slicks.

The delete plates and UDPs will provide minimal HP gains, especially for seeing a change at the track. Your best bet is to get lots of seat time and optimize 3 parameters:tire pressure, launch rpm and shock settings. And this varies if you have a manual vs auto tranny. In general, you want the tires with as much air as possible without breaking loose, the shock settings as stiff as possible without breaking loose, and a launch speed as high as possible without breaking loose. You need to pick two parameters and keep them constant for the day, and adjust the third. I had mine down pat but have added a BMR xtreme antiroll bar, which changed everything again. So for my next track session, I'll dump the clutch at 5500 rpm, have my shocks set to 7 out of 12 (12 stiffest) and tire pressure about 18psi (M&H Racemasters 325/45-17). Then pick one of the 3 and start making changes to see if that helps or hinders.

Aftermarket lower control arms and a relocation kit really help control wheel hop, so that's a decent investment. Oddly enough, my aluminum driveshaft dropped my time by 2 tenths, and that can be attributed to weight loss and less rotational mass. If you don't care about hard cornering, get a lightweight swaybar delete bracket (I have BMR's, but Steeda's has tabs for putting your swaybar back on if you absolutely have to) as that helps transfer weight to the rear tires. Remove your passenger seat and spare tire gear, and only have a quarter tank when you hit the track. If you're running consistent 12.8s-.9s now, then better 60fts willtranslate to better ETs in no time.

My own goal, 12.00, is just in reach and mostly a factor of getting my suspension dialed in properly now that I have a clutch working the way it should...

Good luck, and keep everyone posted...

whtcanbrwnd04u

https://mustangforums.com/m_5183563/tm.htm




??

Vertigo

if your not getting crazy wheel hop you do not need RLB.

06Redfire3V

Sell the WRX and put all the money into the stang!

Kaldar142

err i need to edit that, changed my mind on selling them.


needed money but someone came through so imma be alright