need help..might trade...
#1
need help..might trade...
hey guys i am pondering trading the 07 gt i have in on a redfire premium gt. i have 30k on the 07 and with no money down get into this 08 with no miles. start fresh on the warranty again. the one torch one i have now i wrecked a few months after i bought, in the rain. i took out the rear decklid, spoiler, bumper, drivers door, and pretty muched scratched something on all the other panels beside the pass door. ins paid 8k to fix. i would have the same payments i have now except it would be for 72 months @ 1.9%. i am on a 5 yr 60 month now. what do ya'll think i should do? get out of the one that could cause me a lot of problems in the future or get the 08? i know what i want to do bc i think a lot more is problems could come out of the rear end with the lick it took. (no struts or rear end was looked at when they were looking and fixing the body panels. just wantin to really know how many of you think the 6 yr is a bad idea. i know i wont keep it that long. but seems like a no brainer to me same payment no money down just one yr longer. thanks in advance for any help.
oh yeah i get A-plan too. $29.7k car is mine for a lil over $26k.
oh yeah i get A-plan too. $29.7k car is mine for a lil over $26k.
#2
That's a long time for an auto loan and I'm guessing there is negative equity on the one you have now? Here's what will happen in 3 years when you decide to trade it in. You'll owe so much on your car, that you can't trade it in without a huge down payment included. But I could be wrong here : ) Pretty hard to trade in a car worth $15K when you owe $30K.
But you may not have negative equity in your 07, but we usually do lose a few thousand trading a pretty new late model in. I'm NOT a good person to ask, a total new car addict!! But if I smashed mine up, I'd be trading it. Good LUCK!!!!
But you may not have negative equity in your 07, but we usually do lose a few thousand trading a pretty new late model in. I'm NOT a good person to ask, a total new car addict!! But if I smashed mine up, I'd be trading it. Good LUCK!!!!
#3
I was going to trade mine in on an 08 manual. There would have been negative equity b/c I owed 19K but was offered as low as 13.5K (that was at Carmax). So there was that plus the brand new price. I would have been in the hole ~10K. It will be cheaper for me to put a manual in this one...A LOT cheaper since I could get work done cheaper than most.
So I think if you owe more than 10K don't trade it in. You'll get boned.
So I think if you owe more than 10K don't trade it in. You'll get boned.
#4
hey guys i got a trade value of 18k and i owe 17.5k. no negative equity. like i said my mom works for ford credit. i get cars at invoice, this time im gettin 3,200 off the msrp. so knowing this should i trade?
#5
Let's say the payments are $400 per month. You can stop paying for a Mustang in $16,800 or in $28,800. It's up to you to make the financial decision because they are the same car.
Oh, when you are at the mall, nobody knows if you took the bus, rode a bike, or drove a Porsche....think about it
Last edited by torque_is_good; 10-02-2008 at 09:07 AM.
#6
If you have no negative equity, are putting down nothing and yielding the same payment, I would do it.
I always do 72 months. Why? Because I can send it extra $ if I want to, but I don't have to. Heres the thing, in my book you are either buying a car for cash outright, or you are borrowing it and owning it gradually. If I sign up for high payments and lets say, a 4 year loan, so I'm paying out the nose... what happens when 2.5 years into the loan the car gets totalled? Guess what, the insurance company may cover the cost and I can pay off my loan, but with how much cars depreciate, I will have lost more money than I had to. In the same scenario with a 72 month loan and a $4/month GAP policy, I will be out less $. It all depends on how you look at it.
As far as the negative equity goes, I rolled about $7k into this new one. Sure, I could have written the dealer a check for $7k, but why? I can yield more profit in investing that money than its costing me to finance it at 5.8% for my 72 month loan.
Many people are wrapped up in having no negative equity, or paying off the car as fast as possible, or trying to get short terms etc... my advice is, look at the situation objectively and ask yourself how much its costing you to finance the car, vs what else you could be doing with your money. You'll find that most filthy rich people don't even pay cash for their homes. They can make more money using that cash to invest and for other ventures, than they pay in interest on the home loan...
I always do 72 months. Why? Because I can send it extra $ if I want to, but I don't have to. Heres the thing, in my book you are either buying a car for cash outright, or you are borrowing it and owning it gradually. If I sign up for high payments and lets say, a 4 year loan, so I'm paying out the nose... what happens when 2.5 years into the loan the car gets totalled? Guess what, the insurance company may cover the cost and I can pay off my loan, but with how much cars depreciate, I will have lost more money than I had to. In the same scenario with a 72 month loan and a $4/month GAP policy, I will be out less $. It all depends on how you look at it.
As far as the negative equity goes, I rolled about $7k into this new one. Sure, I could have written the dealer a check for $7k, but why? I can yield more profit in investing that money than its costing me to finance it at 5.8% for my 72 month loan.
Many people are wrapped up in having no negative equity, or paying off the car as fast as possible, or trying to get short terms etc... my advice is, look at the situation objectively and ask yourself how much its costing you to finance the car, vs what else you could be doing with your money. You'll find that most filthy rich people don't even pay cash for their homes. They can make more money using that cash to invest and for other ventures, than they pay in interest on the home loan...
Last edited by Mudflap; 10-02-2008 at 09:46 AM.
#7
If you have no negative equity, are putting down nothing and yielding the same payment, I would do it.
I always do 72 months. Why? Because I can send it extra $ if I want to, but I don't have to. Heres the thing, in my book you are either buying a car for cash outright, or you are borrowing it and owning it gradually. If I sign up for high payments and lets say, a 4 year loan, so I'm paying out the nose... what happens when 2.5 years into the loan the car gets totalled? Guess what, the insurance company may cover the cost and I can pay off my loan, but with how much cars depreciate, I will have lost more money than I had to. In the same scenario with a 72 month loan and a $4/month GAP policy, I will be out less $. It all depends on how you look at it.
I always do 72 months. Why? Because I can send it extra $ if I want to, but I don't have to. Heres the thing, in my book you are either buying a car for cash outright, or you are borrowing it and owning it gradually. If I sign up for high payments and lets say, a 4 year loan, so I'm paying out the nose... what happens when 2.5 years into the loan the car gets totalled? Guess what, the insurance company may cover the cost and I can pay off my loan, but with how much cars depreciate, I will have lost more money than I had to. In the same scenario with a 72 month loan and a $4/month GAP policy, I will be out less $. It all depends on how you look at it.
Many people are wrapped up in having no negative equity, or paying off the car as fast as possible, or trying to get short terms etc... my advice is, look at the situation objectively and ask yourself how much its costing you to finance the car, vs what else you could be doing with your money. You'll find that most filthy rich people don't even pay cash for their homes. They can make more money using that cash to invest and for other ventures, than they pay in interest on the home loan...
Unless you have a substantial amount of cash floating around and places to invest it that will almost guarantee a "higher-than-prime" rate of return, you are always better off to pay off a purchase as fast as possible. Most people live paycheck to paycheck, and if that is the case you are throwing your money away on a long loan versus a short loan. The only real excuse for a long loan is to buy something you cannot really afford, or to keep your cash for other stuff you want and make the bank pay for your car, and either way you are losing money to satisfy a desire to have something now instead of when you can afford it.
Then again, that is what being an American is all about these days.. and almost everyone is guilty of it. I know I am..
#8
I have investments in private endeavors that yield more than "market average". I don't have much of anything in the stock market actually. My point was to get the guy to think about things objectively when it comes to finances. Everyone has their own situation. Look at what yours is, and decide what makes the most sense for you. In all honesty, I could have written a check for this thing, but I'd rather use the $ elsewhere.
I don't keep a car longer than 3 years, so every now and then I'll roll over some negative equity, and sometimes I'll pay the piper... just remember the piper always gets his $ in the end. Cars are not an investment unless you're in a league where you can visit the Barrett Jackson auctions.
I don't keep a car longer than 3 years, so every now and then I'll roll over some negative equity, and sometimes I'll pay the piper... just remember the piper always gets his $ in the end. Cars are not an investment unless you're in a league where you can visit the Barrett Jackson auctions.
Last edited by Mudflap; 10-02-2008 at 11:08 AM.
#10
My point was to get the guy to think about things objectively when it comes to finances. Everyone has their own situation. Look at what yours is, and decide what makes the most sense for you. In all honesty, I could have written a check for this thing, but I'd rather use the $ elsewhere.
I don't keep a car longer than 3 years, so every now and then I'll roll over some negative equity, and sometimes I'll pay the piper... just remember the piper always gets his $ in the end. Cars are not an investment unless you're in a league where you can visit the Barrett Jackson auctions.
I don't keep a car longer than 3 years, so every now and then I'll roll over some negative equity, and sometimes I'll pay the piper... just remember the piper always gets his $ in the end. Cars are not an investment unless you're in a league where you can visit the Barrett Jackson auctions.
If the original question is "is it smart to do this" then the answer is no, cars are not an investment and you already lose money by owning one, so why make it worse by spending more money to get nothing more? If you were going from a v6 to a v8 then I would consider it, or from a GT to a GT500.. But look at it this way: unless you buy used at the wholesale level, you are losing money from the first minute you buy a car until it is sold. If you buy brand new you lose money just driving off the lot. Right now, the NADA blue book shows me that you are losing about $2300 per year on a mustang GT. You lose about $3000 just driving it off the lot. So if you hold on to the vehicle for let's say 4 years, at the very best you are gaining about $1600 in value from a 2007 to a 2008. If the loan difference is any more than that you are losing that much money. A little body damage properly fixed is not going to affect the trade in or resale value of that car down the road.
Personally I think you are way better off spending the difference on modifications to the car. You will not recover most of that money spent but at least you are getting something for it.