Oil Change??
#2
6th Gear Member
1,000 miles is early but if it makes you comfortable, change it now. Our Stangs come with Motorcraft Synthetic Blend which is a decent oil. Personally, I'd do my 1st oil change at 3,000 miles plus change the filter with a Motorcraft. After that, synthetic blends are good for at least 5,000 - 7,500 miles.
Many here have gone to full synthetic. The best bang-for-the-buck is Mobil1 but there are a lot of other good oils. Royal Purple and Amsoil are popular but expensive and don't really provide anything more than peace-of-mind in my opinion. As long as you maintain a reasonable oil/filter change frequency you can pretty much use any name brand oil with a good filter.
Mobil1 and the Motorcraft filter are both available at Walmart and reasonably priced. You'll need 6 quarts on the 4.6L plus an extra quart in the event you need to top off.
Many here have gone to full synthetic. The best bang-for-the-buck is Mobil1 but there are a lot of other good oils. Royal Purple and Amsoil are popular but expensive and don't really provide anything more than peace-of-mind in my opinion. As long as you maintain a reasonable oil/filter change frequency you can pretty much use any name brand oil with a good filter.
Mobil1 and the Motorcraft filter are both available at Walmart and reasonably priced. You'll need 6 quarts on the 4.6L plus an extra quart in the event you need to top off.
#6
6th Gear Member
...and the engine to fall out and the tranny to leak and the muffler bearings to fail...
Over 23,000 miles since changing to full synthetic and only had the engine fall out once and the muffler bearings fail twice. But not ONE CEL.
Sorry, couldn't resist.
Over 23,000 miles since changing to full synthetic and only had the engine fall out once and the muffler bearings fail twice. But not ONE CEL.
Sorry, couldn't resist.
Last edited by Nuke; 10-09-2008 at 07:29 PM.
#7
I changed the oil in my car the day after I bought it. And again at 1K miles. I do that with every new engine, no matter who puts it together.
The first couple of times you'll be changing the oil well under it's normal duty cycle. So pick a good oil but not the best. A standard dino oil will work just fine, and save you some dough.
Switch to synthetic when you have broken the rings in well enough to seal. Base that on heat cycles more than actual miles. 1000 miles of straight highway miles will not break in an engine like 1000 miles of commuting to work. I usually do it at 2,000 miles. By that time I'v worked out any bugs that might crop up.
A true synthetic oil starts with a PAO base stock. There's no dino oil in it. AFAIK, there are only 3 full synthetic oil on the market: Amsoil, Redline, and Royal Purple. M1 IS NOT a full synthetic, regardless of what's on the label. It starts with dino oil, and then gets refined to the current stated. No PAO base stocks. A little trick of the advertisers.
Don't get me wrong, I think M1 is a fine oil. It will more than meet the needs of the vast majority of cars on the road. Including most Mustangs. But it's not a true synthetic. So it should be cheaper. If you can get it at a price comperable to Pannzoil or QS "true synthetics", buy it. If not then shop around or get another brand. M1 is not a bad oil, but it's often a bad value.
The first couple of times you'll be changing the oil well under it's normal duty cycle. So pick a good oil but not the best. A standard dino oil will work just fine, and save you some dough.
Switch to synthetic when you have broken the rings in well enough to seal. Base that on heat cycles more than actual miles. 1000 miles of straight highway miles will not break in an engine like 1000 miles of commuting to work. I usually do it at 2,000 miles. By that time I'v worked out any bugs that might crop up.
A true synthetic oil starts with a PAO base stock. There's no dino oil in it. AFAIK, there are only 3 full synthetic oil on the market: Amsoil, Redline, and Royal Purple. M1 IS NOT a full synthetic, regardless of what's on the label. It starts with dino oil, and then gets refined to the current stated. No PAO base stocks. A little trick of the advertisers.
Don't get me wrong, I think M1 is a fine oil. It will more than meet the needs of the vast majority of cars on the road. Including most Mustangs. But it's not a true synthetic. So it should be cheaper. If you can get it at a price comperable to Pannzoil or QS "true synthetics", buy it. If not then shop around or get another brand. M1 is not a bad oil, but it's often a bad value.
#9
6th Gear Member
Guess I forgot to include that info...
Amsoil oil and filter in the Stang
M1 oil and filter (actually used Fram filters the first 150,000 miles) in my SUV
Both vehicles are on a 10,000 mile oil/filter change frequency. And don't flame me on it. I've been doing that since changing to synthetic 18 years ago and have over 500,000 miles combined on 3 vehicles, not including the Stang, to prove it works.
Amsoil oil and filter in the Stang
M1 oil and filter (actually used Fram filters the first 150,000 miles) in my SUV
Both vehicles are on a 10,000 mile oil/filter change frequency. And don't flame me on it. I've been doing that since changing to synthetic 18 years ago and have over 500,000 miles combined on 3 vehicles, not including the Stang, to prove it works.
#10
hahaha, nice. How much do muffler bearings run for these days. Mine are starting to fail, do they offer them at pepboys?? LOL