ZEX Nitrus coming in the mail! need hlep!
#21
Hufenstang, thanks for that link.
I should have started a thread before I bought the Nitrus to ask what's the full
cost of a NO2 install. 8 'colder' spark plugs are $100!
Turns out the purpose of a colder plug is to dissipate heat so the fuel doesn't ignite
prematurely. Source: (http://auto.howstuffworks.com/ignition-system2.htm)
So does this mean I should also be running REGULAR, PLUS or SUPREME octane?
and if i need a higher octane for the nitrous shot, i can just boost it with a fuel
additive right?
I should have started a thread before I bought the Nitrus to ask what's the full
cost of a NO2 install. 8 'colder' spark plugs are $100!
Turns out the purpose of a colder plug is to dissipate heat so the fuel doesn't ignite
prematurely. Source: (http://auto.howstuffworks.com/ignition-system2.htm)
So does this mean I should also be running REGULAR, PLUS or SUPREME octane?
and if i need a higher octane for the nitrous shot, i can just boost it with a fuel
additive right?
#22
IMO you should be running better fuel in your car from the get go, the $6 or 7 bucks you save from a full tank aint worth it IMO.
I wouldnt be dumping additives in my tank, just get the good gas get a tune with your kit and call it a day, if your going to do it do it right.
Keep in mind that torque is greater with N2O wich is what really causes alot of stress wich would cause parts to fail, wicked jolt feeling of instant torque is understadable **** can break...
I wouldnt be dumping additives in my tank, just get the good gas get a tune with your kit and call it a day, if your going to do it do it right.
Keep in mind that torque is greater with N2O wich is what really causes alot of stress wich would cause parts to fail, wicked jolt feeling of instant torque is understadable **** can break...
#24
Avoid addatives. Not worth the cost of admission.
Now, as a rule of thumb, I never recommend my customers run nitrous on less than 89 octaine, 91 being better and 93 (or 94 if your lucky to have a Sunoco around you that has it) being ideal . Now, if your 100% on running this thing on 87... thats fine and can be done safely, but it adds a slight bit more difficulty in the tuning, and I would seriously recommend that you have your car tuned on a dyno by a professional, and maybe even see if they can accompany you to or allow you to tag along on one of their track nights. Cars never behave the same on the road or track as they do on the dyno..real world airflow is very different and even the best dyno is still only a simulation of a load, albeit a very good simulation but not 100%.
If your going to try and tune it yourself, shoot me an email or pm, and I will see if I can talk you through what you need to do... but with nothing but a handheld tuner and email help, your going to be limited, and the risks much higher.
And also, in either case, your going to end up with one tune for normal driving nd one tune for giggle gas. Another trick I do, is tune for 87 under normal driving, and that same tune should suffice for 100 to 125 shot with 93 octaine. And unlike what some would have you believe, you do not need to run your car out of gas with the low octaine, purify it with flame, have it exorcised by an old priest and young priest and then pray for the ressurection before putting in the better octaine. Run it down low, below 1/4 tank, top up, and let the very VERY capable knock sensor strategy employed by the PCM do what it does.
Now, as a rule of thumb, I never recommend my customers run nitrous on less than 89 octaine, 91 being better and 93 (or 94 if your lucky to have a Sunoco around you that has it) being ideal . Now, if your 100% on running this thing on 87... thats fine and can be done safely, but it adds a slight bit more difficulty in the tuning, and I would seriously recommend that you have your car tuned on a dyno by a professional, and maybe even see if they can accompany you to or allow you to tag along on one of their track nights. Cars never behave the same on the road or track as they do on the dyno..real world airflow is very different and even the best dyno is still only a simulation of a load, albeit a very good simulation but not 100%.
If your going to try and tune it yourself, shoot me an email or pm, and I will see if I can talk you through what you need to do... but with nothing but a handheld tuner and email help, your going to be limited, and the risks much higher.
And also, in either case, your going to end up with one tune for normal driving nd one tune for giggle gas. Another trick I do, is tune for 87 under normal driving, and that same tune should suffice for 100 to 125 shot with 93 octaine. And unlike what some would have you believe, you do not need to run your car out of gas with the low octaine, purify it with flame, have it exorcised by an old priest and young priest and then pray for the ressurection before putting in the better octaine. Run it down low, below 1/4 tank, top up, and let the very VERY capable knock sensor strategy employed by the PCM do what it does.
#25
Was just talking with some guys about the kit that comes in 2 DAYS! ...
They were telling me that I'll never pass smog inspection in CA.
What the hell? I'm not using it while driving on the streets.
So can I get away with this by hiding the nozzle on the underside of the
air intake tube? Everything else under the hood is stock.
California laws are the biggest POS!
They were telling me that I'll never pass smog inspection in CA.
What the hell? I'm not using it while driving on the streets.
So can I get away with this by hiding the nozzle on the underside of the
air intake tube? Everything else under the hood is stock.
California laws are the biggest POS!
#26
Was just talking with some guys about the kit that comes in 2 DAYS! ...
They were telling me that I'll never pass smog inspection in CA.
What the hell? I'm not using it while driving on the streets.
So can I get away with this by hiding the nozzle on the underside of the
air intake tube? Everything else under the hood is stock.
California laws are the biggest POS!
They were telling me that I'll never pass smog inspection in CA.
What the hell? I'm not using it while driving on the streets.
So can I get away with this by hiding the nozzle on the underside of the
air intake tube? Everything else under the hood is stock.
California laws are the biggest POS!
If your that worried about it thats a simple solution maybe taking 15-20 min of ya time at most.
#27
WOA-MA-GAWD! it arrived. UPS delivers late to my place so it came at 8:30ish!!! I was
beginning to think the tracking number lied. I read through some of the manual so far...
So far just about everything you said was right on and listed in the manual. (I'll post more
about that later.
Too tired to do much more than post these crazy pics of what just came in!
beginning to think the tracking number lied. I read through some of the manual so far...
So far just about everything you said was right on and listed in the manual. (I'll post more
about that later.
Too tired to do much more than post these crazy pics of what just came in!
#30
Most valuable nitrus post ever!
*** EVERYTHING A NOOB LEARNED SUMMARY IN 1 POST ***
You guys were right-on about most everything! It turns out, a bone-stock engine
can't safely use more than a 75 shot.
According to the official ZEX instructions:
"Spark plugs and nitrus performance: The factory spark plugs that come in the new
Mustang GT are not suitable for use with any nitrous setting above 75 hp. The factory spark
plugs are particularly hot heat range and tend to overheat at higher horsepower levels.
Attempting to use the factory spark plugs at higher horsepower levels can produce a
detonation condition after a few seconds of nitrous use. The solution to the problem is to
install spark plugs that have a colder heat range and proper ground strap design for nitrous
use."
"Do not engage your nitrous system below 2500 RPS. This ensures that you will
not have excessive cylinder pressures that could cause engine damage"
"Make sure your vehicle has an adequate fuel supply. Nitrous systems put a
large demand on your vehicle's fuel system. Make sure you have a large enough fuel pump
to handle the demands of your engine, as well as the nitrous system."
"Engine computer modifications:...don't use any other non-nitrus tunes...yada-
yada... it is generally recommended that you retard the ignition timing around 2 degrees
for every 50 hp worth of nitrous used, based on an optimized ignition curve for your
engine."
"10." Check fuel quality & ignition timing. The last thing to do before enjoying your
new nitrous system is to ensure that premium fuel (92 R/M Octane or better) is in the fuel
tank and that your ignition timing is programmed correctly.
* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
SO BASICALLY, if I wanted to go with any shot above 75 I would need to do the following:
Total cost of reaching 100 shot: $1,290! + kit = $1,790
HOLY HELL!!!
(note, this still doesn't include Purge Kit, auto bottle valve opener or tank heater)
*** This has been quite the learning exp. for me and i still can't wait get that 75 shot tested! ***
You guys were right-on about most everything! It turns out, a bone-stock engine
can't safely use more than a 75 shot.
According to the official ZEX instructions:
"Spark plugs and nitrus performance: The factory spark plugs that come in the new
Mustang GT are not suitable for use with any nitrous setting above 75 hp. The factory spark
plugs are particularly hot heat range and tend to overheat at higher horsepower levels.
Attempting to use the factory spark plugs at higher horsepower levels can produce a
detonation condition after a few seconds of nitrous use. The solution to the problem is to
install spark plugs that have a colder heat range and proper ground strap design for nitrous
use."
"Do not engage your nitrous system below 2500 RPS. This ensures that you will
not have excessive cylinder pressures that could cause engine damage"
"Make sure your vehicle has an adequate fuel supply. Nitrous systems put a
large demand on your vehicle's fuel system. Make sure you have a large enough fuel pump
to handle the demands of your engine, as well as the nitrous system."
"Engine computer modifications:...don't use any other non-nitrus tunes...yada-
yada... it is generally recommended that you retard the ignition timing around 2 degrees
for every 50 hp worth of nitrous used, based on an optimized ignition curve for your
engine."
"10." Check fuel quality & ignition timing. The last thing to do before enjoying your
new nitrous system is to ensure that premium fuel (92 R/M Octane or better) is in the fuel
tank and that your ignition timing is programmed correctly.
* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
SO BASICALLY, if I wanted to go with any shot above 75 I would need to do the following:
- Get colder plugs & have them custom gapped to .030 to .035. What does this mean and how much more does it cost than to buy the $100 spark plugs?
- Get more powerful fuel pump Is this easy to install because it seems they cost $700!
- Get a custom tune to retard my timing I have no idea how to do this but found that there seems to be a MSD Digital 6 box that has retard timing on it. That costs $320!
- Window Switch for safty's sake to keep my nitrus from engaging below 2500 and over 6000. Only $170
Total cost of reaching 100 shot: $1,290! + kit = $1,790
HOLY HELL!!!
(note, this still doesn't include Purge Kit, auto bottle valve opener or tank heater)
*** This has been quite the learning exp. for me and i still can't wait get that 75 shot tested! ***