distant.soldier

This one is my 4th...hopefully the last for awhile...
I knew about the fuel stabilizer, but didn't know how good of a thing it would be... the car will be kept garage kept. Wife will start the car once a week...and a trusted family member will drive it once a month or so...would this be good??

mustangfan410

i've already done that, several times.

Stoenr

Ill be glad to take care of it for you
I promise to wash it at least once a week too!

limitedex

Uh, i wouldn't drive it in the winter! You're in New York! I'm in Erie, PA and mine's not leaving the storage till the salt is off the road.

charliebrown266

I live in toronto,the salt is bad,i would not drive,or start it,every time you start and drive moisture will form in the exhaust. Put mine away last week,and will not see daylight till spring, I hate WINTER!

Nuke

I'd leave it either totally laid up or, if you want it ran on occasion, ONLY run it when it can be driven about 20 or more miles. Just starting it in the garage for awhile will not burn off nearly as much moisture from the fluids as a good, long drive and may actually cause more problems.

mygt500

8 mil plastic on cement in the garage will prevent corrosion on the undercarriage! Can be found at any Home Depot or Lowes or paint supply store)

Fuel stabil first then fill the tank-the drive home should be more than enough if done in that order!

I would still use the car cover but as stated its personal preference.

I have 30 series tires and the side wall is reinforced. I do over inflate to near max psi (max on mine is 50psi) so I usually run 40+psi when in storage. In 6 months of storage no flat spots but I have a 20 inch rim and small side wall tires as opposed to the amt of rubber you have with the 18's and taller sidewall height. I still recommend doing that if it is not going to be driven. If it is driven wait until spring other than a start up or 2 in the 5 months of bad weather the midwest and northeast can produce. (salt is the enemy and nixed with water is very corrosive) If you do start once a week (not necessary) run for 20+ mins to make sure operating temp is reached. A couple of good revs before shutdown to blow out some of the condensation is recommended if doing it this way. If not and you start 2 times in 6 months- run for 20-40 minutes and rev the motor (after properly warmed) and get the excess condensation out! Everyone has there own way and I have never read about decreasing the air in the tires to less then recommended.

If you remove the rims and tires and store indoors (best scenario) make sure the suspension is loaded when on the car jack stands......trust me when I say this as you don't want stretched out front/rear coil springs giving the car more wheel well than before. It will not settle much if loaded (if any) in 6 months to a yr. Big difference between settling and seating the springs that many talk about when changing out to new ones (aftermarket) as there is a big misconception between that and I have not seen progressive springs settle and seat that much if at all regardless of how old they are. (take a DD for an example)

Baddog

This year my car will be off the road from October to February. It is stored in a gated parkade with a smooth concrete floor. The Z28 parked next to mine is a DD and rain and melting snow from it dampens the area beneath my car. Although the garage is not heated per se, it is slightly warmer than outside. Here in Vancouver it isn't below freezing all winter, maybe a 1/4 of the time is a good guess. The last two years I've just filled the gas tank with 94 and left it. The battery needs a jump after the four months but otherwise all's good. Do you think all the steps I've read about here should apply to me what with the moderate winters and length of time it's stored? There isn't much I can do about the water from the other car, it's substantial and it comes from the owner of the car that gives me the free out of the elements storage. I figure a roll of carpet underneath would just harbour the moisture longer underneath rather than allowing it to evaporate which seems to happen slowly anyhow in low temperatures. That's my main concern, the water...although it's not extremely cold here it is wet. My car has zero rust anywhere and if there's anything I can do to prevent undercarriage rust I'd love to here it. I should say that the water doesn't necessarilly "pool" underneath it, the pavement is wet for long periods of time as a result of water off of his car. Thoughts? Thanks...

Baddog

*BUMP* on dealing with wet pavement under a stored vehicle. Anyone?

Nuke

Other than laying a sheet of plastic under the car and lifting the edges so no water flows on top of it and under the car, my only other thought would be to have some air movement beneath (only a little movement is required; not a wind storm) the car IF there was a lot of moisture. The best thing would be some heat (wouldn't take much) with a bit of air movement but that's not always possible.