A friend had a battery terminal come loose on him with similar effects, excluding the shock. Make sure battery cables are tight. Its the first place I would check in addition to the "water leak."

You getting shocked sounds like a bad ground, which again could mean a loose chassis ground cable.

I would check the batt. cables.


I just replaced my battery with a Red Top Optima.

 

DieHard Gold from Sears. It was around $100.

I can tell a difference though. Even when my old battery was good, starting on cold days it would struggle a little. With this new battery it does not. Seems like this is a much stronger battery. Of course just about anything is stronger than stock. Car manufactures try to get away with the crappiest things they can.

 

Thanks for the tips, guys. Everything sounds logical.

Unfortunately, the car would not start this morning. Nothing in the car is working... not even the locks. Thankfully I'm off from both my jobs today so I don't have to use the car. I don't have jump cables, but my boyfriend's sister does in her car since it's a bit iffy. So when she gets back this afternoon I'll try and jump it and then take it to AutoZone. In the meanwhile I will check to see to see if the passenger floor board is wet. It was raining insanely here yesterday which is not typical for my area. The car is used to rain though because when I lived in San Antonio it was always raining in the spring time.

 

Alright, well the car has been jumpstarted. My boyfriend's brother (who used to be a mechanic) said it could just be a glitch since it's been cold the last couple days and that he would wait for it to happen again before taking the battery to AutoZone. I just am a bit afraid it might happen again when I need to go to work though, which would be awful.

You do know that your car battery is under warranty right? I found that out after I replaced my original one with one I purchased at AutoZone. It kinda sucked.

 

I know the price sucks, but I always change a battery every 3-4 years no matter what. Sure it might last longer BUT are you willing to be stranded somewhere to save a buck? Do the same for belts and hoses to, but that's just me

 

I agree with the battery terminal connection. You might want to take them off, wirebrush the terminal and clamp, then snug it back up.

 

My car is no longer under warranty.

I also did not want to go back with a stock battery. It seems like everyone has had issues with it going dead way too soon. I wanted to be sure and get something that's stronger and would last longer. Some have even had issues with new batteries they got from the dealer. So you more than likely have a better battery any way.

 

You may have the infamous water leak. Your Smart Junction Box probably got wet. When it happened to me the radio first started acting funny and either wouldn't turn on or it wouldn't turn off once I finally got it to work. Then shortly after all of the other electronics in the car started going crazy and wouldn't work properly. The auto trans locked itself into park and I almost had to have it towed to the dealership from my school's parking lot. I finally got the trans to shift into drive and took the car to the dealership that night. The dealership had to replace the SJB and fixed the leak.

 

Once again the car didn't start this afternoon... we had to jumpstart it and then take it to AutoZone. After I got out of the car and closed the door the clock was on again. They told me the battery was drained but that the battery was still good. I told them about the clock staying on and the guy said that a clock that stays on can most certainly drain the battery. They charged the battery for a half hour and then it went back into the car. It started up fine and now when I turn off the car and open the door the clock turns off, thank goodness. I hope it stays that way too... it had been raining a lot the last couple days, so I'm a bit persuaded to think that something got a bit wet and caused the clock to somehow stay on. The only thing now is that the driver side window doesn't automatically go up after I shut the door... just down when I open it. Nor is it going up after I do the single click on the button... I have to hold the button. It goes down with one click, though. I think the driver's manual says something about that so I'll probably have to reset it.

 

I had the problem with the window. I think all I needed to do was the reset procedure. The place I took it too said I needed to replace a part but the problem was still existed with the new part and after I found out about how to reset it and told them it worked again. Makes me think that's all that was wrong with it instead of the "bad" part.

Ever since then my window does not go all the way up. There's a small gap and it lets a little air in and is annoying since it makes a wooshing sound when driving. I'll be taking the doors apart soon to put in some new speakers so I'll have to see what's going on there.

The reset procedure is, with the door closed (and the key to on so you get power), hold the button down until the window is all the way down and keep holding for two more seconds. Then hold up and let it go all the way up and continue to hold for two more seconds. It should be reset then.