austijc

First I had a problem a month or two ago where the battery went dead after not driving my 2006 GT for a week. I charged it up, and it's been fine since.

Now, on the coldest day we've had in a while, I jump in after getting some lunch, fire it up, and get all kinds of warnings. It said I had no fuel, no oil pressure, no brake fluid, the traction control was disabled, and the sound system didn't power up. The turn signals worked but the indicators on the instrument cluster didn't light up or click. The starter cranked just fine and it was running fine, so I headed back to work. In a few minutes the relays in the computer in front of the passenger door start clicking and everything started to come back on-line.

So, I'm thinking the battery may not be operating well due to the first incident and the cold weather pushed it over the edge. The problem is that would seem like it would also cause slow cranking. Has anyone seen this before?

07 Stang

I would check for water leaks first. Check around the passenger side near the kick panel to see if it has moisture there. Could be a leak (which is unfortunately common in some Mustangs) shorting you out.

SCCAGT

The car has several computer modules and uses a "bus" system to talk to each other. It seems as though they werent doing much talking to the PCM. Which makes it kinda surprising the car ran.
Definetly check the floorboard on the passenger side for any kind of wetness.

Nuke

The battery is about shot and the problems that you had immediately after it started was due to low voltage. After a short time the battery voltage came up enough for everything to reset but that'll only be temporary. You need a new battery.

Be sure to do a search on the forum on battery issues. The OE battery sucks to begin with. On top of that, there are a few things that continue to drain the battery even with the ignition off. The biggest culprit is the Shaker system. If you leave the system on when you shut of the car, the amp continues to draw power.

ski

+1
Always turn off the stereo unit manually before turning off the engine. Also, if it's in the CD mode, then switch to the radio mode first before turning it off.
I bought my car new off the dealer's showroom floor, and it had battery problems after only 14 months. The dealer found the battery to be ok, and recharged it. 1 year later it was dead, and had to be replaced. I started using the stereo unit manual shut down procedure immediately after the replacement battery was installed almost 2 years ago, and have not had a single battery problem since then. However, I do check the battery's fluid level at least once a month.

austijc

Thanks for the responses. As far as the shaker system, I yanked that and put in an Eclipse GPS unit a while back. It still does have the Shaker sub amps so they could be staying on. I'm taking it to the dealer on Friday to see what they can find. The check engine light is now on, so hopefully there's a useful code. That may just be a side effect of the bad sensor readings. One of these days I should pick up an ODBII reader.

austijc

UPDATE

According the dealer it's a bad "right side" fuel level sender unit. Are there two of them? It would make sense that the sensor was messing up the low speed CAN bus and the computer was able to offline it.