I have been using a procedure similar to this one for many years with excellent results.
My 85 GT had 295k when I sold it and it was still felt as strong as it was when I bought it new and did not smoke.
No internal engine work ever done to it, only alternators and water pumps etc...

A new engine has lots of little particles floating around especially in the first few miles and NO oil filter gets them all out.
I would recommend a purolator pure one filter, one of the best you can get.
Avoid fram oil filters at all cost, they used to be good filters, not anymore.

Break in procedure link.
http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

 

wix is the way to go for me...engine break in procedure whats that?...kidding...i jsut drive it hard all the time if it breaks..its under warrenty

 

Hey Fellow Alabamian!
So, basically I need to let it warm up before leaving the dealer, take the back roads home and do a lot of running through the gears.
Do you change the oil right away after 20 miles or so? And if the salesmen have already put 20 miles on it (they better NOT - it will have just gotten off the freaking truck!) I'm screwed?

 

Hey Wldstng05,
Where are you?

I'd go a little easy the first 5 miles or so.
Ok to stretch out the 20 miles a few more , try to keep it under a couple hundred at most.

Here is a link to info on oil filters
http://motorcycleinfo.calsci.com/FilterXRef.html
it is about motorcycle filters but applies to all types.
There is a list near the bottom on Spin On Oil Filters and which are recommended and which are not.

I use purolator pure one on my Bike and walmart on my trucks.
The 2.00 walmart filter (made by champion oil filters who makes many brands) is one of the best.
Goes to prove once again you dont always get what you pay for.
Just because they mark it up 3000% does not make it work any better.

 

I'm just NW of Huntsville... so what, about 120 miles north?
Well, it'll take me 5 - 7 miles to get to the backroads. I have the option of hopping on the interstate (I65 and then I565) but that wouldn't give me the chance to shift through unless there's NO traffic. I guess if there's no traffic I could hit the hazard lights and if pulled over just plead "break in". I won't open it up past 80 or so, so they wouldn't get me for speeding but for slowing down/speeding up/punching/etc. I'd look like a drunk!

I'll have to pick up a filter from WallyWorld... I don't change the oil myself. The place I use uses Valvoline but I have no idea what filters they use - never paid attention.

 

Good change they use Valvoline Oil filters.
Beaware Valvoline has been changing designs lately. Smaller size filter claiming to have the same amount of filtering. I just dont know about that.

And what happened to Fram filters? I use to use em all the time until a few years, just been using the Valvoline ones because thats what we carry. 250k+ on my 4.6L

 

Yep, but its the longest 120 miles I have ever driven.

 

This is what a drain plug magnet takes care of, all of the little crap the filter does not catch. Not to say that it's still not a good idea to get an early oil change but once past break-in, the drain plug magnet and the oil filter do the job of keeping the oil particle-free -- pretty damn well.

 

amsoil filters..I changed mine @ 100,500,1000,2500,5000,10,000

 

I live in San Jose California.

I was told by the Ford Parts Guys of people getting greif cause they did not have a Ford filter on their car. I bought the 75k extended warranty. I think I'll buy my filters from Ford, then they'll porbably have a record of my purchases to boot.

I'm at a little over 4k miles. At 5k miles I'm going to drop in six quarts Redline 5w-20 and eight ounces "Tufoil" www.tufoil.com , and change out my trans with Redline "D4" and a 10% mix of Tufoil.