Engine problems..any ideas?
#11
There is no sensor in the coolant line, so that's not it. The ECM guesses on the coolant temp based on your head temp sensors. it sounds like a faulty sensor, but which one, idk.
The stumble when starting, does it do it first thing in the morning? Mine fires right up first thing in the morning, but when I go to leave work it will sometimes do the stumble, then rev up a little, then settle to idle. Cleaning the MAF sesnor will fix it for a while, but it always returns. When I first start my car every day, it fires up like it has something to prove. I don't get why after sitting for 8-10 hours it will stumble, but then the next morning it fires up like it's pissed at the world.
It's almost like the ecm thinks the engine isn't cold, but then it realizes it's mistake and tries to recover. Mine has never stalled by the way.
The stumble when starting, does it do it first thing in the morning? Mine fires right up first thing in the morning, but when I go to leave work it will sometimes do the stumble, then rev up a little, then settle to idle. Cleaning the MAF sesnor will fix it for a while, but it always returns. When I first start my car every day, it fires up like it has something to prove. I don't get why after sitting for 8-10 hours it will stumble, but then the next morning it fires up like it's pissed at the world.
It's almost like the ecm thinks the engine isn't cold, but then it realizes it's mistake and tries to recover. Mine has never stalled by the way.
I'm thinking faulty sensor as well. No way the car is going from normal operating temp to nuclear back to normal operating temp in a matter of seconds with something in the cooling system actually overheating.
#12
An air pocket would be easy enough to take care of with the built in bleed valve on the Whipple water crossover.
I've had a car with a sticky thermostat before, best to change it if it's suspect because one day it won't unstick and there's no predicting when or where that will happen.
I've had a car with a sticky thermostat before, best to change it if it's suspect because one day it won't unstick and there's no predicting when or where that will happen.
No wetness. Are you talking about rain water coming in? My car is parked in a garage at all times and rarely even sees driving in the rain.
#13
No wetness. Are you talking about rain water coming in? My car is parked in a garage at all times and rarely even sees driving in the rain.[/QUOTE]
Yes that was what I was talking about but guess that is not it!
Yes that was what I was talking about but guess that is not it!
#14
Say it anit so American, I'm having the exact same freakin thing happening to my car. I've contacted Justin at VMP tuning so he could help me out thinking its a tune problem. Trying to get a hold of that guy is like winning the lotto he just so darn busy.
I've thought some of the same things as noted above. I do have some questions for you. Are you running an IAT sensor? If you are it could be that the wires are getting to hot where they are presently located. The more heat exposure on the wires the more resistance which will cause the ECM to throw a code. I moved mine and it got better. My car has only thrown a code once since then.
One other thing that happens is that my car will go through a self check then car will act like its going to die (Just as you described) but doesnt it then says check gas cap then throws a code. i can not stand that engine light on my dash, it freakin kills me.
Funny thing is, once it happens it will not do it again as long as the check engine light is on. If I clear the code it come back after a few days. What I've been told by my gear head friends is that its a hard code, No kidding, hard to figure out. Anyway what they mean is that there is something wrong with one of the sensors? If you happen to figure it out let me know.
I originally thought that this was a fuel issue however being that your running the twin pumps it does not appear to be that way. I am only running the BAP w/stock fuel pump.
I'm curious what fuel injectors are you running? Yeah I know this is all over the place but this might help me figure out my fuel issue/check gas cap thing.
I've thought some of the same things as noted above. I do have some questions for you. Are you running an IAT sensor? If you are it could be that the wires are getting to hot where they are presently located. The more heat exposure on the wires the more resistance which will cause the ECM to throw a code. I moved mine and it got better. My car has only thrown a code once since then.
One other thing that happens is that my car will go through a self check then car will act like its going to die (Just as you described) but doesnt it then says check gas cap then throws a code. i can not stand that engine light on my dash, it freakin kills me.
Funny thing is, once it happens it will not do it again as long as the check engine light is on. If I clear the code it come back after a few days. What I've been told by my gear head friends is that its a hard code, No kidding, hard to figure out. Anyway what they mean is that there is something wrong with one of the sensors? If you happen to figure it out let me know.
I originally thought that this was a fuel issue however being that your running the twin pumps it does not appear to be that way. I am only running the BAP w/stock fuel pump.
I'm curious what fuel injectors are you running? Yeah I know this is all over the place but this might help me figure out my fuel issue/check gas cap thing.
#18
hmmm, and the plot thickens...
I'll check my connections. My IAT was relocated when the whipple was installed. Then when I took my car to VMP, Justing rewired the IAT connection, he said that my installer had mixed up the connection and it was no biggy, just took a couple of minutes to cut and reconnect some wires. I'm starting to think that this could be the culprit.
I'm running the injectors that come with the whipple HO kit, FRPP 38 lb I believe.
I'll check my connections. My IAT was relocated when the whipple was installed. Then when I took my car to VMP, Justing rewired the IAT connection, he said that my installer had mixed up the connection and it was no biggy, just took a couple of minutes to cut and reconnect some wires. I'm starting to think that this could be the culprit.
I'm running the injectors that come with the whipple HO kit, FRPP 38 lb I believe.
#19
I think they are 39lb injectors.
I dont think the IAT sensor would cause your fluid temp to rise and fall how you described. I do think it might affect the start up problem though.
Defineatly sounds like a electrical gremlin, but you might try purging the coolant again.
I dont think the IAT sensor would cause your fluid temp to rise and fall how you described. I do think it might affect the start up problem though.
Defineatly sounds like a electrical gremlin, but you might try purging the coolant again.
#20
I think they are 39lb injectors.
I dont think the IAT sensor would cause your fluid temp to rise and fall how you described. I do think it might affect the start up problem though.
Defineatly sounds like a electrical gremlin, but you might try purging the coolant again.
I dont think the IAT sensor would cause your fluid temp to rise and fall how you described. I do think it might affect the start up problem though.
Defineatly sounds like a electrical gremlin, but you might try purging the coolant again.
Hate those electrical gremlins, don't poor water on them or you are in for some real trouble!! LOL