battery
Ok, i have been away for a couple days... Now, your saying that I would be a great idea to get this battery tender?? I don't think that im going put one on the old battery. Don't you think that would be beating a dead horse... (no pun intended lol).
6th Gear Member
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 16,182
From: PA to KY ('07) to IL ('09) to MS ('10) to FL ('11)
I'd get a new battery (non-Motorcraft) and be sure to turn the Shaker system OFF before shutting off the ignition. Between the sheer number of garbage OE Motorcraft batteries and the Shaker's amp drawing power with the ignition off, that should be your fix. I wouldn't bother with a tender unless you still have problems with a new battery.
Ok thanks alot.... You get so many differant ideas.. I can't believe this is such a huge problem with the stangs... I love mine... but never dreamed of it draining a bat... Are there any other issues that i should be concerned with?
6th Gear Member
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 16,182
From: PA to KY ('07) to IL ('09) to MS ('10) to FL ('11)
Not to scare you but you should get familiar with the TSB's in the sticky in this forum. There a few chronic issues, the battery being one of the them, you need to be aware of so you can get anything needing fixed done per the TSB while (or IF) still under warranty. Fortunately, there are some dealers that will do TSB work out of waranty free or at a reduced price.
6th Gear Member
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 16,182
From: PA to KY ('07) to IL ('09) to MS ('10) to FL ('11)
TSB = Technical Service Bulletin
Here's the link to the sticky. Scroll down to post #4, "TSBs for the 2005+ Mustang"
https://mustangforums.com/forum/2005...tech-info.html
Thankz for the compliment!
Here's the link to the sticky. Scroll down to post #4, "TSBs for the 2005+ Mustang"
https://mustangforums.com/forum/2005...tech-info.html
Thankz for the compliment!
Hi again... I am having another problem.. I didn't see anything in the threads you gave me, so maybe this will be a new dilema...lol... When opening the driver or pass. door the window automatically adjusts down, then when you shut them, they automatically adjust up... now. mine aren't doing that .. have you ever heard of this and if so, any suggestions. thank you in advance...
Hi again... I am having another problem.. I didn't see anything in the threads you gave me, so maybe this will be a new dilema...lol... When opening the driver or pass. door the window automatically adjusts down, then when you shut them, they automatically adjust up... now. mine aren't doing that .. have you ever heard of this and if so, any suggestions. thank you in advance...
In order to improve door efforts and sealing, your vehicle is equipped with short drop glass. This feature lowers the glass when either door is opened. The glass returns to its closed position when the door is closed.
Proper operation of the short drop glass requires that the windows be calibrated. Though your windows will have been calibrated before your vehicle is delivered to you, it is possible for the windows to lose calibration. If a window loses its calibration, your short drop feature will lower the window, but will not raise it again when the door is closed. To re-calibrate the window, pull the switch up to raise the window until it completes its travel and hold the switch up for 2 seconds. Another possible effect of lost calibration is that the feature may not lower the window. To re-calibrate the window in this case, lower the window until it completes its travel and hold the switch down for 2 seconds. Immediately after releasing the window down switch, pull the switch up to raise the window until it completes its travel and hold the switch for 2 seconds. Perform Short drop re-calibration with doors closed only. Re-Calibrating with doors open will cause the window to continuously bounce back.
According to TSB 07-5-13 (Discharged Batteries Vehicle Storage/Limited Use);
All modern automobiles have several micro
draw small amounts of electrical current when
the vehicle key is off. Normal current draw is
between 20-30 milliamps (workshop manual
specification is up to 50 milliamps 0.050 amps).
4. The more discharged a battery becomes, the
more susceptible it is to permanent damage.
This is more likely in low temperatures (below
32 °F (0 °C).
Short drive cycles will only provide a small
07-5-8. surface charge to the battery. To fully recharge
a battery that is fully discharged requires
operating the vehicle for approximately two (2)
processors in their electrical system that will hours with engine speed above 1500 RPM.
I know back in Dec. when I took my car in for state inspection I asked about the hard to start syndrome and the tech told me our cars have a pc memory that draws some current. We should drive it more often or get a trickle charger or battery tender.
What I want to know is if we get another kind of battery will that solve this issue?
All modern automobiles have several micro
draw small amounts of electrical current when
the vehicle key is off. Normal current draw is
between 20-30 milliamps (workshop manual
specification is up to 50 milliamps 0.050 amps).
4. The more discharged a battery becomes, the
more susceptible it is to permanent damage.
This is more likely in low temperatures (below
32 °F (0 °C).
Short drive cycles will only provide a small
07-5-8. surface charge to the battery. To fully recharge
a battery that is fully discharged requires
operating the vehicle for approximately two (2)
processors in their electrical system that will hours with engine speed above 1500 RPM.
I know back in Dec. when I took my car in for state inspection I asked about the hard to start syndrome and the tech told me our cars have a pc memory that draws some current. We should drive it more often or get a trickle charger or battery tender.
What I want to know is if we get another kind of battery will that solve this issue?


