Prothane vs Granatelli for lowering motors, which is better and why?
03-31-2009, 01:35 PM
#11
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Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Mississippi
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Ok there is a serious misconception going on here with LT's. They run over the steering shaft, which means you want to RAISE the motor slightly, not lower it. Lowering it will make it worse. OP- you want the regular Prothane mounts, not the shaved ones. Polyurethane is much stiffer then the factory rubber mounts so when the motors weight rests on the mount the poly doesn't compress as much as the rubber, which is what gives you the extra height you want for clearance.
Here, I've got a pipe with 1/8 inch clearance to the lower driver side side of the steering shaft. When I accelerate hard and turn left hard, it rubs.
Not obvious in this picture is that I have another pipe running over the top of the steering shaft. I've got a good 3/4 inch clearance there. So I need to lower my engine just a little, but not enough that the pipe above the steering shaft becomes a problem.
I talked to JDM about this yesterday. They said their motor mounts that are cut down 1/2 inch will lower the engine 3/8 inch compared to stock. I'm pretty sure I am going to order these after I take one more look at the car.
03-31-2009, 01:46 PM
#12
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Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Orlando, Florida
Posts: 518
Shane- JDM is the only company i know of that offers shaved mounts so they're a good choice. I've never seen your specific case happen so let us know how it turns out. Have you tried slotting the mounts and shifting the motor over some? May save some money if you're in a crunch. I don't know if lowering it will help any as the tube is next to the shaft instead of above/below it.
03-31-2009, 02:03 PM
#13
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I moved the engine over to the side after that photo was taken. After that, it didn't rub as bad, but it still rubs.
There's an angle at work there that's hard to pick up from one photo. Its a combination of acceleration (engine leaning back) and a left turn (engine leaning right) that makes it rub. If I turn hard left without accelerating or if I accelerate hard without turning, I get no rub.
If I lower the engine, the problem pipe gets lower and since the steering shaft is angled away from that pipe, just going lower also means the pipe is laterally farther away as well.
Part of me wonders if the section of shaft that rubs is that corner where the fat part of the shaft starts. Going lower would also keep me away from that fatter part of the steering shaft.
There's an angle at work there that's hard to pick up from one photo. Its a combination of acceleration (engine leaning back) and a left turn (engine leaning right) that makes it rub. If I turn hard left without accelerating or if I accelerate hard without turning, I get no rub.
If I lower the engine, the problem pipe gets lower and since the steering shaft is angled away from that pipe, just going lower also means the pipe is laterally farther away as well.
Part of me wonders if the section of shaft that rubs is that corner where the fat part of the shaft starts. Going lower would also keep me away from that fatter part of the steering shaft.
03-31-2009, 02:08 PM
#14
Banned
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: AZ
Posts: 134
I have 2 of the GMMM0507 - Granatelli Mustang Motor Mounts in stock for $149 shipped call me
2005-Up Ford Mustang GT Motor Mounts
Eliminate missed shifts with these Urethane OE Replacement Motor Mounts.
Mount Features:
# Direct OEM replacement
# Eliminates engine twist in chassis from weak factory Hydra mounts
# Transmits more power to the ground
# Includes all necessary hardware
# Kit includes 2 urethane bushings that provide 20% better performance than factory or solid bushings
# Installs in approximately 1-2 hours using basic hand tools
2005-Up Ford Mustang GT Motor Mounts
Eliminate missed shifts with these Urethane OE Replacement Motor Mounts.
Mount Features:
# Direct OEM replacement
# Eliminates engine twist in chassis from weak factory Hydra mounts
# Transmits more power to the ground
# Includes all necessary hardware
# Kit includes 2 urethane bushings that provide 20% better performance than factory or solid bushings
# Installs in approximately 1-2 hours using basic hand tools
03-31-2009, 08:37 PM
#15
5th Gear Member
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Memphis
Posts: 2,377
).......So I guess you wont be visiting the Detroit area anytime soon? (saw the game).....................GO MSU!!!!!!!!!!!
And J, no sense in adding insult to injury
we just lost our amazing coach to one of the top Basketball schools in the nation.
03-31-2009, 09:30 PM
#16
Multi-Tasking Moderator!
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03-31-2009, 09:32 PM
#17
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Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Memphis
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03-31-2009, 10:30 PM
#19
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Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: City of God
Posts: 2,358
what long tubes is the OP running?
It seems that forking out the extra bucks for AR and kooks doesnt seem so bad anymore because you install and dont have the headache of having to grind anythign down or rely on other mods to make it right.
It seems that forking out the extra bucks for AR and kooks doesnt seem so bad anymore because you install and dont have the headache of having to grind anythign down or rely on other mods to make it right.
03-31-2009, 10:58 PM
#20
3rd Gear Member
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Orlando, Florida
Posts: 518
Honestly....there is NO WAY in H*** ARH can justify charging over $1000 for tubes. It's ridiculous how much LT's for S197's are. No matter the fitment issues, a little denting and fitting is worth the price difference. And Tomb, I read posts by you in which you had the same views that I just expressed, until you got sponsored by ARH and they threw a pair into your lap. Don't take it the wrong way bro, not starting anything, just giving my view and I can't see why ARH charges so much. I understand ARH puts time into the headers and uses good materials, but I think they go overboard. For everyone who has them, more power to you all!
Last edited by KLO; 03-31-2009 at 11:01 PM.