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Old 10-23-2015, 05:47 PM
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Anybody change their coolant/antifreeze yet..????

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Old 04-14-2009, 05:16 PM
  #21  
whyask
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LOL ok .. thanks , u just saved me some cash !
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Old 04-14-2009, 05:28 PM
  #22  
CKurello
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Can you just undo the plug and let it run out then put a different type in or will I have to pay to get it flushed?
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Old 06-18-2009, 07:38 PM
  #23  
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I recommend checking your cooling system every 6 months. Make sure the upper hose is getting hot and that the radiator fan is turning on. Two major keys of the cooling system. Don’t get me wrong you can’t condemn a hose just by feeling it though. Ford recommends getting your system drained and flushed at every 100k Miles. I flushed mine after installing my supercharger and I always drain it after 30k miles but I would recommend flushing the system at every 100K If possible periodically drain your cooling and change it to ovoid formation of rust and corrosion which can impair (harm) the performance of the cooling system and cause engine damage.
Steps
1. Wait until the engine completely cools before attempting to open the expansion tank cap.
2. Do not mix coolant of different colors. Use Motorcraft Premium Gold, which it’s yellow colored WSS-M97B51-A1
3. Never dump your used antifreeze. (or else I won’t be posting anything) I would recommend taking it to a place where you got your coolant from.
4. Place a large container under the radiator to catch the coolant. (check the hoses, heater hoses and clamps)
5. The drain **** (plug) is towards the left side. Turn it clockwise to open it. If you haven’t opened the expansion tank cap now it’s the time so gravity can take care of the rest.
6. Once the system is completely drained. Remove the thermostat housing from the engine and then reinstall the housing without the thermostat using the old o-rings. Follow the upper hose and you’ll find the thermostat.This will allow the system to be thoroughly flushed and get all the rust left in the heater core.
7. Warning: Do not run the engine while the thermostat is off.
8. Disconnect the upper hose from the radiator and place a garden hose in the upper radiator inlet and flush the system until clear water comes out from the hose outlet. Make sure you collect it with a separate bucket so you avoid a mess dealing with rust.
9. If the radiator has been contaminated or clogged, the garden hose needs to be inserted in the bottom radiator outlet but I would recommend getting a new radiator if severe damaged.
10. Install the thermostat back with a new o-ring and discard of the old one.
11. Second Warning: Never run your engine until the thermostat is installed back to the housing.
12. Close and tighten the radiator drain ****.
13. Have your heater temp. control in the max heat position
14. Slowly add new coolant (50/50 mix of water and antifreeze) to the expansion tank until the level is at the Cold Fill Range mark (CFR).
15. Leave the expansion cap off and turn the engine on until the thermostat opens and the upper hose is going to get hot. Make sure you perform this test in a well vented area.
16. Turn the engine off and let it cool. Add more coolant to the CFR mark in the expansion tank again.
17. Squeeze the upper radiator hose to expel the air and then add more coolant mixture if necessary. I recommend replacing the expansion cap at every 100k miles.
18. Start engine and allow it to reach at a normal temp and check for leaks.
19. This is very important. Set the heater and blower controls to the max settings and check if the heater output from the air ducts is warm because that would be a good indication that all the air has been purged from the cooling system.
20. Always play safe and enjoy.

Bleeding Procedure.
NOTICE: The engine cooling system is filled with Motorcraft Premium Gold Engine Coolant. Mixing coolant types degrades the corrosion protection of Motorcraft Premium Gold Engine Coolant.
NOTICE: Engine coolant provides freeze protection, boil protection, cooling efficiency, and corrosion protection to the engine and cooling components. In order to obtain these protections, the engine coolant must be maintained at the correct concentration and fluid level in the degas bottle.

When adding engine coolant, use a 50/50 mixture of engine coolant and deionized water.

To maintain the integrity of the coolant and the cooling system:
• Add Motorcraft Premium Gold Engine Coolant or equivalent meeting Ford specification WSS-M97B51-A1 (yellow color). Use the same coolant that was drained from the cooling system. Do not mix coolant types.
• Do not add/mix orange-colored Motorcraft Speciality Orange Engine Coolant or equivalent meeting Ford specification WSS-M97B44-D. Mixing coolants may degrade the coolant's corrosion protection.
• Do not add alcohol, methanol, or brine, or any engine coolants mixed with alcohol or methanol antifreeze. These can cause engine damage from overheating or freezing.
• Ford Motor Company does NOT recommend the use of recycled engine coolant in vehicles originally equipped with Motorcraft Premium Gold Engine Coolant since a Ford-approved recycling process is not yet available.
1. Fill the radiator through the degas bottle until the coolant level is between the COOLANT FILL LEVEL marks.
2. Select the maximum heater temperature and blower motor speed settings. Position the control to discharge air at A/C vents in instrument panel.
3. Start the engine and allow to idle. While engine is idling, feel for hot air at A/C vents.
4. NOTICE: If the air discharge remains cool and the Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) gauge does not move, the engine coolant level is low and must be filled. Stop the engine, allow the engine to cool and fill cooling system. Failure to follow these instructions may result in damage to the engine.
Start the engine and allow it to idle until normal operating temperature is reached. Hot air should discharge from A/C vents. The Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) gauge should maintain a stabilized reading in the middle of the NORMAL range. The upper radiator hose should feel hot to the touch.
5. Shut the engine off and allow the engine to cool.
6. Check the engine for coolant leaks
7. Check the engine coolant level in the degas bottle and fill as necessary.
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Old 06-18-2009, 08:00 PM
  #24  
Art161
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I think it is fine to add 50% antifreeze and 50% distilled water if you are topping up the cooling system, but that is not what you should add if you have just flushed the system.

When you flush the system, a certain amount of water remains. Therefore, a 50% antifreeze and 50% distilled water addition will give you less than 50% antifreeze protection. You should determine the capacity of your cooling system. Add antifreeze to equal 50% of that capacity. Then top off with distilled water to the proper level. You now have 50% antifreeze in your cooling system.
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Old 06-18-2009, 09:24 PM
  #25  
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True. I know what you're saying and I was hoping for someone to ask this. lol Certain water remains in the system but when mixing both 50/50 you have a better chance in making a customer happy instead of them bringing the car back. If you know there's water in the system just add a little bit more of coolent in the end (it's common sense) and call it a day. (Hint) You're suppose to test the car in the end. Adding water first and then coolent it's not the right way to do it from a techs point of view. It also depends in the altitude (hot places or cold places) so don't assume. Play safe and enjoy.
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Old 06-18-2009, 09:49 PM
  #26  
digitalcos
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I don't understand. Why would there be water left in the system and not a 50/50 mix if that's what's been running through the system?

Originally Posted by TPony
Here's an interesting tib bit...I poured back exactly I drained...initially the coolant got into the places it supposed to go, but the last 1/4 gal or so filled the over flow tank almost to the top. Strange, I thought, because again, I just refilled it using exactly what I drained. I just then place the top on the overflow and drained a bit to let the air out. After a few days of driving, the coolant level fell back to normal.
Did you run the engine and let it warm up after filling it? The coolant level in the over flow tank will go down as your thermostat opens and allows the coolant to flow freely.
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Old 06-18-2009, 10:12 PM
  #27  
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He sounds like he has no clue on what's happening. I don't blame him though. Just read the 20 steps and you should be able to perform this procedure like a pro. lol
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Old 06-19-2009, 12:20 AM
  #28  
Art161
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Originally Posted by digitalcos
I don't understand. Why would there be water left in the system and not a 50/50 mix if that's what's been running through the system?
Because it is not simply draining the system; it is flushing it. I haven't heard of people using 50/50 for the flush. They just use water.

If you simply drained the system, you wouldn't force the crud out the way you do with a pressure flush.
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Old 06-19-2009, 10:20 AM
  #29  
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Oh yeah, actually, that's perfectly obvious. Dumb question on my part.
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Old 06-22-2009, 05:46 PM
  #30  
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I just use a machine to flush the system fast and simple. Flushing your system with 50/50? It isn't a bad idea if you have a pressurized system to flush the coolent sytem, but why bother and waste your money. Unless you have money to burn. lol You never know though. Don't worry, from my experience I had worse questions asked than you've asked.
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