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30,000 mile maintenance?

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Old 07-17-2009, 06:49 PM
  #11  
Mustangmaster
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I use Motorcraft synthetic blend oil. I don't think you can go wrong with what Ford themselves puts in these vehicles.
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Old 07-17-2009, 08:19 PM
  #12  
Nuke
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As far as the 30,000 mile maintenance, I wouldn't sweat it. IMO, other than routinely performing the oil/oilfilter changes, simply checking all the other fluid levels, belt(s) and replacing the fuel filter are the only things that I consider important. The cabin air filter is easily replaced and doesn't NEED to be done with regard to engine performance or longevity. There's little beyond that that requires replacement at 30,000 miles (which is young for an engine).

As far as oil, another GREAT topic where opinions are too many to count, the Motorcraft synthetic blend is what comes in our Stangs and is an excellent oil. Just be sure to replace it after no more than about 7,000 miles; 7,500 miles, tops. A full synthetic can go a bit longer. Also, the Motorcraft oil filter is a very good bang-for-the-buck.
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Old 07-17-2009, 10:43 PM
  #13  
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Wow, you car is low mileage. I have 40k on my 07, drive the heck out of it and my brakes are still working like new. Not sure how the traffic is out in socal though....

At 30k this is what you should have done:

If you don't change your oil regularly, go with synthetic now and start changing it in 10k intervals. Use a quality synthetic such as Mobil1 with Mobil1 filters which are universally available. I trust M1 products even though I use Amsoil oil and filters. M1 filters are a syn fiber and probably the best universally available filter. You'll pay more but whatever anyone tries to tell you.. you only need to change your oil/filter at 10k miles with a good syn oil and syn filter.

Air filter - This should be done depending on what type of filter element you use. Synthetic elements can go much longer periods. I use
Amsoil syn cone filters which are good for 30k miles. Paper I would swap at 10k along with oil changes.

Rear-differential fluid swap - General opine is you don't "need" this until many more miles but any driveline specialist will tell you to swap the fluid at ~5-10k miles to flush out the wear/contaminants. Rearends fail at a greater rate than motors/transmissions and this is why. Swap your rear diff fluid when you can. V6's don't have lsd so quality 75w-140 syn fluid (amsoil severe gear recommended). You don't require LSD additive etc so dont' let them try to sell you this..

Trans/auto fluid swap - If you have a manual trans, swap the fluid with royal purple synchromax, auto not sure since I've only had manual but whatever Ford recommends. At 30k it's time to swap you tranny fluid.

Other than these recommendations, I would also recommend that you use Chevron gas from reputable stations which will keep your injectors clean. Buy cheap gas=problems with fuel system later down the road. And swap the fuel filter every 10k.

Glad to hear a TX gal is doing well out there in CA. Cheers!

Last edited by Rubrignitz; 07-17-2009 at 10:54 PM.
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Old 07-17-2009, 10:49 PM
  #14  
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As for your brakes... you need new pads. anywhere you go will try to tell you that your rotors need turning. For the price of rotor turning at a shop you can purchase new performance rotors online.

Look at some cryo-rotors or some of the other performance brands that sell for about $100 pair. Less rust and corrosion for the same price they would charge for a rotor "turning". Rotor turning is a scam to get $300 out of you for a brake job. A brake job should only cost you the price of new pads+labor.
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Old 07-18-2009, 08:25 AM
  #15  
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Originally Posted by Rubrignitz
As for your brakes... you need new pads. anywhere you go will try to tell you that your rotors need turning. For the price of rotor turning at a shop you can purchase new performance rotors online.

Look at some cryo-rotors or some of the other performance brands that sell for about $100 pair. Less rust and corrosion for the same price they would charge for a rotor "turning". Rotor turning is a scam to get $300 out of you for a brake job. A brake job should only cost you the price of new pads+labor.
Most shops actually have a set labor rate on brake labor, with new rotors, or resurfacing the old. Its common to resurface rotors, and its hardly a scam.
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Old 07-18-2009, 10:35 AM
  #16  
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Squeaking brakes aren't necessarily bad... you may simply have a buildup of brake dust.
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Old 07-18-2009, 11:31 AM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by Stoenr
Most shops actually have a set labor rate on brake labor, with new rotors, or resurfacing the old. Its common to resurface rotors, and its hardly a scam.
+1. And resurfacing is usually included in the labor cost. I hust got a quote ove r a bit over $200 for rear brakes - parts and labor including resurfacing.

Now replacing the rotors can be costly, and there is room for scamming - some shops may say they can't be resurfaced and need to be replaced. You're at their mercy, so make sure you trust them.
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Old 07-18-2009, 11:46 AM
  #18  
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Thanks, guys. I appreciate all the pointers in this gray area that I'm not to well-versed in.

I'm about to take the car in to Mustang and American Classics here in Mission Viejo, so I'll bare all these tips in mind. Even if they tell me I need pads I'll probably hold off for a bit and get some performance pads online. Might not be able to afford it anyway right now until the next paycheck anyway.
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Old 07-18-2009, 03:55 PM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by degeze
I perform a lot of my own maintenance on mine using the Haynes book as reference. In the Haynes book it says the following for 30,000...check all the fluids including the differential, inpect all belts/hoses/brakes/steering and suspension components, replace the cabin filter, fuel filter and change the oil and brake fluid. IMO $300 seems expensive just for work along these lines, hopefully you can find a more reasonable price at a quality shop.
I think it is alot too!
Originally Posted by VictoriaRR
I did, don't recall ever having gotten that guide though unless it was sent separately from the car. In which case, it might be back at my parents' house since I used to live there before.

Thanks for that great link, Richmod!

Does anyone use Motorcraft synthetic motor oil? I usually use Mobil 1, but that $40 coupon the dealer sent me that includes tire rotation, break system inspection, belts and hoses check, and fluids top off is tempting... even if I don't get the 30,000 mile maintenance there.
I use Mobil1 and this might be a much better opt. if you dont want to spend the cash for the "inspection"
Originally Posted by VictoriaRR
Thanks, guys. I appreciate all the pointers in this gray area that I'm not to well-versed in.

I'm about to take the car in to Mustang and American Classics here in Mission Viejo, so I'll bare all these tips in mind. Even if they tell me I need pads I'll probably hold off for a bit and get some performance pads online. Might not be able to afford it anyway right now until the next paycheck anyway.
Try hawk HPS pads....very good and common on the stang. Have your boyfriend do the front or back brakes as they are real easy to do in the driveway!
Let us know how it goes Victoria
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Old 07-18-2009, 04:20 PM
  #20  
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Okay, so my car just got finished!

My Mobil 1 oil and filter change was only $39. I'm definitely going back there for future oil changes.

They replaced the fuel filter for $18.95, my cabin air filter for $17.95, and the 30,000 mile maintenance came out to $229.50 for 2.70 hours of labor at $85.00 per hour. They also cleaned and oiled my K&N filter free of charge, which they said was filthy with sand... presumably from my drive from Texas. Not even the dealer when I took it in last November told me it had sand in it. They also removed a nail from one of my tires and sealed it up without charge. I didn't even know it was in there! So my total came out to $333.43 after taxes.

They also gave me a rundown of everything they checked, and it seems they checked absolutely everything. They said my brakes have about 30% life left in them. They said my transmission oil, coolant, and differential oil were all fine. They said I didn't need a tranny flush until about 45,000 miles, which I think is the next major maintenance. Does that sound about right for those three things?

The only problem they found was that my rear main seal is leaking. =( They said it's okay right now and it's not actually dripping yet, but to monitor it closely because it will be a major and expensive fix that the dealer will have to do. My car isn't even under warranty anymore so I'm already dreading that. Other than that I guess things went well. Everyone seemed to be pretty knowledgeable and polite.
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