The $45 rental is refunded when you return the tool, so it cost exactly $0.

 

My advice to the OP is to go this route, $0 is as cheap as it gets ansdis a lot safer (IMHO) than the long bolt method.

 

ahh, ill have to take a run to my local pet girls shop or fauto zone and check it out.

casey - i dont really need it anytime immediate, im putting the car away for the winter relatively soon (within the next monthish) and will probably do it over the winter (although getting it done and testing it before the snow/sand/ice comes would be nice).

I went out today to sort of prep for the install (bought a torque wrench at Sears - on sale for $60 :-) my only question is... the instructions state that if you have an auto you need an impact wrench and to hold the converter in order to loosen/break the crank bolt. if i put the car into gear (first, drive, etc) will i be able to break the crank bolt free without an impact wrench and holding the converter?

and yes, i already got a new crank bolt from ford, thank you for the heads up though

 

It doesn't matter what gear you put it in, with an auto it will still spin because it is not mechanically connected to the drive line. Basically a converter works similar to two fans facing each other with one turned on. The other fan will spin because of the moving air. Converters work the same, except instead of air you have tranny fluid.

Your converter does eventually lock up as you drive, but that's irrelevant for what your trying to do now.

You'll still have to get an impact gun.....Or a Manual GT

 

haha dammit, i was hoping i could loophole the situation. even with the impact gun tho, im going to have to "hold" the converter from spinning no? how would i do that?

 

If using an air impact, you should'nt have to "hold" the pulley from spinning. It should loosen it no problem. At least mine did, a 250 ft pds air wrench. I even set it to half power and torqued the crank bolt back on. Thats a big no-no, but 4 years later, the UDPs still spin perfectly.

 

Getting the old bolt off with an impact is pretty easy, the real problem with an automatic (like mine) is stopping the motor from turning while applying the torque to Ford specs to the new crank pulley and bolt. Ford and Steeda both tell you NOT to use an impact for that.

Ford says to:

Torque to 66 ft lb
back off 1/2 turn (180 deg)
Torque to 37 ft lb
tighten the bolt 1/4 turn (90 deg)

I used a 2 ft breaker bar and all of my 200 lbs to get the last 90 degrees. You will need to mechanically hold the motor solid in order to properly torque the crank bolt.

 

yes, and you old it by means of the torque converter right?

 

Yes, there is an access port with a rubber plug, (that pulls out) on the drivers side of the block that exposes the flexplate and torque converter nuts.

 

oh man, excellent picture advice, thanks a ton! now how do u "hold it" from spinning? open ended wrench stuck in there? lol