best lowering springs
#21
I AM going to be upgrading the wheels and tires, probably to 285/40/18 rear with 255/45/18 fronts. I think I am going to go with the pro kit. What else will i need to make the suspension work well/properly with no rubbing? camber bolts/plates, panhard bar, steering stops, etc.
#22
Im running K springs with tokico dampers. Its really really worth doing both at the same time as about everyone here will say the same. I didnt get a panhard and i lucked out and didnt really need it as the axle didnt shift enought to be noticable.
I got it aligned and they said it was dead on no need for adjustment.
Im very very happy with the handleing although i do want the back to be about 1/2" lower, parking next to a stock height mustang it looks night and day different
I got it aligned and they said it was dead on no need for adjustment.
Im very very happy with the handleing although i do want the back to be about 1/2" lower, parking next to a stock height mustang it looks night and day different
#26
Adjustable PHB - wait and see. There's no hurry, and if you do need to have the adjustment this can be swapped in and adjusted at any time without affecting anything else. And be sure to check the 'before' and 'after' after you've driven the car enough to settle the suspension. I don't think that everybody checks it that way.
Norm
#27
Actually, based on the information on Steeda's web site, the Steeda Sport springs fit your requirements exactly. The ultralights have an additional 1/4 inch of drop front and rear. I initially "thought" I wanted the Ultralights, too, but after talking to Sam Strano I opted for the Steeda Sports instead. Their spring rate is less than the ultralights. The Sports give a better ride (for my but) than the Pro-kits, and the look and handling are much better than the stock springs, IMO.
#28
Alignment - yes. Camber will go a little further negative (which may or may not be an issue, and a little more negative camber might even be preferable if you're more of a corner-carver than a drag-racer). Toe will shift, and this is what eats up tires.
Adjustable PHB - wait and see. There's no hurry, and if you do need to have the adjustment this can be swapped in and adjusted at any time without affecting anything else. And be sure to check the 'before' and 'after' after you've driven the car enough to settle the suspension. I don't think that everybody checks it that way.
Norm
Adjustable PHB - wait and see. There's no hurry, and if you do need to have the adjustment this can be swapped in and adjusted at any time without affecting anything else. And be sure to check the 'before' and 'after' after you've driven the car enough to settle the suspension. I don't think that everybody checks it that way.
Norm
#29
Pro kit and I didnt need a panhard as the axle didnt shift enough to be noticable.
Front camber will be on the neg so it will need an alignment.
I'm running staggard 20's (285x30x20) (255x35x20) with 1.25 drop front 1.5 drop rear and looks good.
The ride feels like my Harley so I'm right at home with it. LOL
Front camber will be on the neg so it will need an alignment.
I'm running staggard 20's (285x30x20) (255x35x20) with 1.25 drop front 1.5 drop rear and looks good.
The ride feels like my Harley so I'm right at home with it. LOL