REMOVING 2008 FRONT SEATS
6th Gear Member
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 16,182
From: PA to KY ('07) to IL ('09) to MS ('10) to FL ('11)
No, I don't believe the seats will cry or complain one bit if you tell them they're fat...
http://iihs.net/fsm/?dir=449
http://iihs.net/fsm/?dir=449
mustang queen, use the on-line manual
that Nuke provided...
it looks like you pull a fuse in the passenger
kick panel area, to power down the seat air
bags.
if you can't find it let us know, we'll provide
a direct link.
that Nuke provided...
it looks like you pull a fuse in the passenger
kick panel area, to power down the seat air
bags.
if you can't find it let us know, we'll provide
a direct link.
You probably did whatever it is you wanted to do by now, but I've had just the worst time with changing seats.
If you're just removing the seat to gain access to something and then refitting directly, you should be ok so long as you do not power up the ignition when the seat is out. That way you won't throw body codes which you cannot reset yourself with a $50 code reader (Grrrrrr). Best thing is to remove that fuse as mentioned or disconnect the battery for the duration.
For me I never did get a resolution on my SRS system issue. I swapped the seats and followed the prescribed procedure for maintaining a happy OBC by leaving the seat wiring looms in the car and installing Ford Airbag termination plugs.
unfortunately the termination plugs do not work and despite Ford trying twice to fix the problem the SRS system remains disabled. Ford themselves were contacted through the Ford tech Line and responded with the canned "Ford neither condones nor supports the installation of aftermarket accessories in their products" Yawn.
If you're just removing the seat to gain access to something and then refitting directly, you should be ok so long as you do not power up the ignition when the seat is out. That way you won't throw body codes which you cannot reset yourself with a $50 code reader (Grrrrrr). Best thing is to remove that fuse as mentioned or disconnect the battery for the duration.
For me I never did get a resolution on my SRS system issue. I swapped the seats and followed the prescribed procedure for maintaining a happy OBC by leaving the seat wiring looms in the car and installing Ford Airbag termination plugs.
unfortunately the termination plugs do not work and despite Ford trying twice to fix the problem the SRS system remains disabled. Ford themselves were contacted through the Ford tech Line and responded with the canned "Ford neither condones nor supports the installation of aftermarket accessories in their products" Yawn.
Let me know how that goes, I've got enough to do the truck but was contemplating pulling the seats and doing the whole interior floor as well.
So far I did the trunk which has the shaker 1000 , It helped with that. Did under the rear seat , rear ide panels and the front doors . Made the car quieter, and makes it feel tighter. Mainly want to do the tunnel which should help with tans and drive line noise and vibration . Putting on a off road pipe and hoping this will hide any highway drone.
So far I did the trunk which has the shaker 1000 , It helped with that. Did under the rear seat , rear ide panels and the front doors . Made the car quieter, and makes it feel tighter. Mainly want to do the tunnel which should help with tans and drive line noise and vibration . Putting on a off road pipe and hoping this will hide any highway drone.
Yes you can tell, I'll be changing out my carpet this weekend and finishing up my sound mat installation by doing the whole floor pan. I've already done the doors and trunk and you can tell a huge difference. I'll post pic's on my new carpet when its done.
Cutter, what brand material did you wind up using? I have some FatMat but I'm not sure if I should go with Dynamat instead. I've heard that Dynamat is hands down the best sound deadener, but it's way more expensive than the FatMat.


